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Old 12-21-2015, 06:30 PM   #29
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This composite headlamp style is used on the 02-04' years. I installed the headlamps, bulbs, and harness on my 00' at the same time, last December.

This is the driver's side.








There is no signs of melting. The passenger's side is the same.

Rich
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Old 12-24-2015, 03:45 PM   #30
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I'm really surprised it seems like those would create a lot of heat.
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:40 PM   #31
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are not all headlight fixtures plastic?
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Old 01-02-2016, 12:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r___r View Post
Deano56,

...
This is the diagram that I used:





I've been running like this since December of last year. I've only been flashed by oncoming traffic once, and that was only because I was stopped at a stoplight cresting a hill.

It is so great to be able to see while driving my truck at night.

Rich
If you attached the low beam to the 87a you would have at least low beams if the relay burned out and also you'd only have to buy one relay. Use the high beam feed from the steering column (attached to 86) to excite the relay and just dead end the low beam feed from the steering column. Wire 30 to a fused wire from the battery. That's how I did it on my RV (Allegro DP).

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Old 01-02-2016, 10:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
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If you attached the low beam to the 87a you would have at least low beams if the relay burned out and also you'd only have to buy one relay. Use the high beam feed from the steering column (attached to 86) to excite the relay and just dead end the low beam feed from the steering column. Wire 30 to a fused wire from the battery. That's how I did it on my RV (Allegro DP).
Teffy,
Do you have a diagram? Unable to decipher some of your post.
Attach the low beam of what to 87a?
Dead end the low beam feed with what, to what, or how?

The reason I attached the low beam and high beam feeds of the 'control' circuit(headlight switch and high beam switch) to the relays, exciting the 'load' circuit(direct battery voltage to headlights), is to use the full voltage potential for the headlights.

While I used the diagram, above, for my installation of the wiring harness, I did not want to splice the headlight wires together, but rather allowed each headlight wire have their own dedicated connection at the relays, having (2) 87 pins connected on each relay.

So, here's the blown up picture of the relays I used, along with, the above diagram I have now altered for exact visual, to show the exact wiring I did to the relays.






So when the headlight switch( 'control' circuit) energizes pin 86(connected to pin 85 through a coil) causes a magnetic field to close the switch between pin 30 to pin 87('load' circuit), full voltage will go directly to the headlights, eliminating 'load' voltage to the headlight switch, and, voltage drop through the thin wiring between headlight switch to the headlights.

This description and diagram is not for the folks that already understands the relay operation, but, maybe it will help someone who comes across this thread.

Rich
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Old 01-03-2016, 01:02 PM   #34
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is this low voltage problem to motorhomes only?
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:03 PM   #35
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is this low voltage problem to motorhomes only?
Voltage is loss due to lengthy wires. It happens to all.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:15 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r___r View Post
Teffy,
Do you have a diagram? Unable to decipher some of your post.
Attach the low beam of what to 87a?
Dead end the low beam feed with what, to what, or how?

The reason I attached the low beam and high beam feeds of the 'control' circuit(headlight switch and high beam switch) to the relays, exciting the 'load' circuit(direct battery voltage to headlights), is to use the full voltage potential for the headlights.....

Rich
Rich:

I have to use your diagram because I don't know how to do that much with the internet (I envy you guys that can do that).

I attached the wire from both headlight low beams to 87a. The wire from both headlight high beams goes to 87. The high beam feed of the 'control' circuit(headlight switch and high beam switch) goes to 86 as in your diagram and 30 gets the 30 amp fused battery wire, again as in your diagram.

When the hi/lo headlight switch is in the "lo" position the relay isn't energized and the power goes from 30 to 87a lighting up the low beams. When the hi/lo headlight switch is in the "hi" position the relay is energized and the power goes from 30 to 87 lighting up the high beams. The blue "lo" wire in your diagram will need to be taped off so when the hi/lo switch is in the "lo" position it wont short out.

The beauty of wiring the relay this way is, when most relays burn out it's a coil problem and not a electrical finger (switch) problem so if the coil burns out 87a is still energized and you have low beams.

I use one more relay and that is in the 30 amp feed and 86 on it is connected to my headlight on/off switch. 30 is connected to the batt, 87 is connected to 30 on the headlight control relay.

I hope I've cleared up what I started.

By the way - your diagram post #33 will light up both high and low beams on the left bulb when the "hi" red wire is energized. Both high and low beams on the right bulb will light when "lo" blue is energized.

I just realized that you and I were also in the awning discussion, I don't think that I said anything about the awning material being close to rotten and tearing easily. That was the first awning i replaced and it was on my first MH.


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Old 01-04-2016, 03:36 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEFFY View Post
I attached the wire from both headlight low beams to 87a. The wire from both headlight high beams goes to 87. The high beam feed of the 'control' circuit(headlight switch and high beam switch) goes to 86 as in your diagram and 30 gets the 30 amp fused battery wire, again as in your diagram.

When the hi/lo headlight switch is in the "lo" position the relay isn't energized and the power goes from 30 to 87a lighting up the low beams. When the hi/lo headlight switch is in the "hi" position the relay is energized and the power goes from 30 to 87 lighting up the high beams. The blue "lo" wire in your diagram will need to be taped off so when the hi/lo switch is in the "lo" position it wont short out.

The beauty of wiring the relay this way is, when most relays burn out it's a coil problem and not a electrical finger (switch) problem so if the coil burns out 87a is still energized and you have low beams.

I use one more relay and that is in the 30 amp feed and 86 on it is connected to my headlight on/off switch. 30 is connected to the batt, 87 is connected to 30 on the headlight control relay.

I hope I've cleared up what I started.
Ok...I've got your setup figured out. I can see how the low beams will still work if the coil burns up on the relay that energizes the high beams. But, also, if the coil on the relay energized by the headlight switch burns out, you won't have any lights. Low beams or high beams.

With the way mine is setup, if one coil burns up, I will still have, either, low beams or high beams.

Quote:
By the way - your diagram post #33 will light up both high and low beams on the left bulb when the "hi" red wire is energized. Both high and low beams on the right bulb will light when "lo" blue is energized.
My headlights, for the past year, are not and have not, been acting like you describing. All the diagrams that I have posted show, Low Beams (all blue wires) are tied into the relay on the right, and, the High Beams (all red wires) are tied into the relay on the left. Each relay is energized separately.

Quote:
I just realized that you and I were also in the awning discussion, I don't think that I said anything about the awning material being close to rotten and tearing easily. That was the first awning i replaced and it was on my first MH.
Rotten or tearing is sounding like the norm.

Rich
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