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12-09-2011, 01:05 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Richland,Or
Posts: 66
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On my 1986 Elandan 28ft P30 what's the best way to get the core out. 
Thanks
Fundalo Vega
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12-11-2011, 03:56 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Richland,Or
Posts: 66
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So far I had to take the front nose off,what a nightmare(rant off)
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12-11-2011, 06:51 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,075
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I looked at the parts diagrams for your rig but I did not see any usefull information for this problem. Wish you luck.
Dave
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Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
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12-11-2011, 11:07 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Richland,Or
Posts: 66
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thanks for looking
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12-12-2011, 11:06 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Richland,Or
Posts: 66
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Quick update: Got the core out,this is not for the faint of heart.
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12-13-2011, 06:54 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftv37
Quick update: Got the core out,this is not for the faint of heart.
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So how did it finally come out ?
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92' Holiday Rambler 1000
The wife, me and two furry kids
If you have it, a truck brought it.
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12-13-2011, 08:33 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Richland,Or
Posts: 66
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I don't know if it's the right way,but  I had to loosen the front nose that housed (sp) grill,headlights,ect.After finding out the hard way,don't take the screws out of the bottom of the box.So I had to take the fan motor housing off to access the screws to the top of heater box  then take the core out.
That's why they get the big bucks
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12-13-2011, 08:26 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 373
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Heater cores are hard. I went 4 winters without heat on my toad because the heater core leaked and had been by-passed. Finally had it fixed last winter. Two Grand. And I looked at it in the shop while they were working on it. Absolutely all of the dash was taken out, to the firewall from the inside. I felt sorry for them, even though I was the one paying. Glad you were able to get this done. I am a big fan of winter heat.
ronspradley
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1993 Gulfstream Sun Voyager DP 30'
160 HP Cummins B5.9, 4sp Allison AT542
Toads 1985 Nissan pickup (for sale), 1998 Honda CRV
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12-14-2011, 04:03 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 702
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a lot of cores are a pain the worst i have done was a dodge neon . all the dash came out steering column console. glad to hear you got it out you will learn lessons the hard way. just did that when replacing a water pump on my 454, 12 hours to get it off . then i thought pull the cross member (found bolts for steering box loose) 3 hours to re install.
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12-14-2011, 06:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 303
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It's too late for the original question, but I had to replace the heater core on a new-to-us 1999 Safari TREK shortly after purchase. Fortunately, someone on the TREK forum had done this first and posted a description. On the '99 GM chassis, the heater core is inside a plastic housing, in front of the firewall on the passenger side, and an access hole can be cut through this using the blade of an electric soldering iron. Once the heater core is replaced, the part of the housing can be glued back with RTV (see picture). This was far easier than disassembling the entire front body cap, and the process should be applicable to several years of the GM P-32 chassis.
Also, heater cores for older RV's are available from the Mill Supply Step Van catalog Mill Supply Index The one I bought had slightly different pipe configuration, but came with additional elbows and was easy to install.
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George Schweikle
Lexington, KY
1999 Safari TREK 2830
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12-14-2011, 05:33 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Richland,Or
Posts: 66
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The one on the left is the one I have,thanks for the link
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