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Old 08-02-2012, 08:46 PM   #15
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No 'oil sensor', 'oil switch'
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:35 PM   #16
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No 'oil sensor', 'oil switch'
Am I understanding that you are saying that the oil pressure sensor is not the item that would be an issue? I bought what I think is a new pressure sensor. It was on a "t" fitting with another sensor module that I assumed was oil temp. I'm attaching a photo of what I bought. If I bough the wrong item, can anyone direct me to the location and maybe what it would look like?

The fuel pump will be in to Napa tomorrow am. It has a pressure range of 5- 9.5. Does this sound like it will work ok?

Once again, thank you all very much for your help.
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:54 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tacotory View Post
The fuel pump will be in to Napa tomorrow am. It has a pressure range of 5- 9.5. Does this sound like it will work ok?

Once again, thank you all very much for your help.
That's a pretty high pressure pump and 'cuz your coach (and therefore the carb) is older, I hope that fuel pump doesn't blow-out your needle valves...just a thought, but you'll know if does if it floods and fuel comes out the bowl vents.

It would be no problem if you had a loop circuit fuel supply, but I bet that was not required in '88.

Good luck
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:07 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by tacotory View Post
Am I understanding that you are saying that the oil pressure sensor is not the item that would be an issue? I bought what I think is a new pressure sensor. It was on a "t" fitting with another sensor module that I assumed was oil temp. I'm attaching a photo of what I bought. If I bough the wrong item, can anyone direct me to the location and maybe what it would look like?

The fuel pump will be in to Napa tomorrow am. It has a pressure range of 5- 9.5. Does this sound like it will work ok?

Once again, thank you all very much for your help.
Did it look something like this?



The big one (single wire) is for the oil gauge, the second is for the pump and electric choke (if equipped).

So, you bought a Oil Pressure Sender. Thats ok though. But what you want is an Oil Pressure Switch.

Should look something like this - 2 or 3 wire depending:

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Old 08-03-2012, 12:29 AM   #19
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Did it look something like this?



The big one (single wire) is for the oil gauge, the second is for the pump and electric choke (if equipped).

So, you bought a Oil Pressure Sender. Thats ok though. But what you want is an Oil Pressure Switch.

Should look something like this - 2 or 3 wire depending:

Yes, looked just like the photo you showed. So I need the switch. I will look for something that looks like the photo you supplied. Any clues as to location?
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:38 AM   #20
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That's a pretty high pressure pump and 'cuz your coach (and therefore the carb) is older, I hope that fuel pump doesn't blow-out your needle valves...just a thought, but you'll know if does if it floods and fuel comes out the bowl vents.

It would be no problem if you had a loop circuit fuel supply, but I bet that was not required in '88.

Good luck
I chose that one because it was mentioned earlier that I wanted 7psi and that was in the range of the one I chose. All the ones they had displayed a psi range. Should I be choosing one where 7psi is the top of the range? Or is 7psi not correct?
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:51 AM   #21
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I chose that one because it was mentioned earlier that I wanted 7psi and that was in the range of the one I chose. All the ones they had displayed a psi range. Should I be choosing one where 7psi is the top of the range? Or is 7psi not correct?
I don't really know how your pump selection will run...hopefully the pump will work well within it's rated range. If it doesn't you will know almost immediatly.

My experience was with similar problems in a V8 powered Scout (345cu-in/4bbl)...I added a 5-10psi electric Bosch pump, mounted at the rear of the truck, by the tank. But, it had too much pressure and constantly flooded the carb (Carter Thermoquad).

I went back to the stock mechanical pump, because I couldn't get a straight answer about what electric pump would work for my application. Aftermarket mods are often trial and error.

For me, the final problem was with the carb, because it was leaking air from a bad gasket seal between the fiber/metal sections of the carb body. I found this after changing vacuum lines, the fuel pump, and I even tried rebuilding the carb myself, twice. I finally had to give-in and let a carb shop rebuild the carb for me. It seems that it had warped over time and needed to be run through a lath to correct the warp - apparently a common Thermoquad problem.

Best of luck
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:56 AM   #22
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If it is the fuel pump, why not just replace it with the OEM equivalent replacement? Why reinvent the wheel?
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:48 AM   #23
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If it is the fuel pump, why not just replace it with the OEM equivalent replacement? Why reinvent the wheel?
I was trying to avoid having to remove the 90 gal tank from the underside of the coach to get it out. Dumb move?
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:32 AM   #24
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i would drop the tank to ck and clean it just in case i had to replace my rear tank due to rust and gunk when i went to replace the pump.
a floor jack and a suitable sized board and a little help and it isn't that hard to do and replace all the fuel lines while there cheap insurance.
if you do need too replace the ignition module be sure to put the supplied grease under in when you install the new one will keep it from overheating
alot of folks skip this step bad idea
good luck
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:37 AM   #25
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Yes, looked just like the photo you showed. So I need the switch. I will look for something that looks like the photo you supplied. Any clues as to location?
Um, Right on the same tee fitting?

Or did you mean at a parts store? Just take yours in and match..

Quote:
Originally Posted by tacotory View Post
I was trying to avoid having to remove the 90 gal tank from the underside of the coach to get it out. Dumb move?
Not really, as long at the new one can 'pull through' the old one. If you find the pump is too high a PSI and is non-adjustable, you can always add a fuel regulator at the carb. I would prefer that anyways as it keeps a higher pressure in the fuel lines to help prevent vapor lock and insures that you will always have good fuel..

However, didnt you say you had a in tank AND mechanical pumps? In that case, it wont matter as the mechanical will self regulate and the anti-vapor lock stuff would still apply.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:50 AM   #26
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Um, Right on the same tee fitting?

Or did you mean at a parts store? Just take yours in and match..
Ok- that is the item that I was thinking was the oil temp sender. Mine looks slightly different than the one in your pic, but I will go remove it and take it in with me a just replace both at the same time. Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:54 PM   #27
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I was trying to avoid having to remove the 90 gal tank from the underside of the coach to get it out. Dumb move?
My 87 bounder, 34 foot had storage under the bed that was accessible from the rear ( outside door) and also a small cabinet door, inside. Inside that compartment was an access panel, held on with a few screws, that provided access to the fuel tank sending unit. I'd check to see if you have the same setup for access to your fuel tank sending unit/fuel pump.
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:27 PM   #28
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As far as that oil pressure sending unit is concerned, WATCH IT. Here's my story...
From 6-3-2011
We did 1700 miles in less than 7 days. We left Michigan on Wednesday the 25th. We Headed for Indianapolis for the evening. About 25 miles North of Indy we ran into a hail storm. The hail was about the size of a quarter. It busted holes in the bathroom vent and the refrigerator vent. The hail was coming down so much it was deafening inside the MH. I was shocked that the windshield did not break. After finding replacement parts in Indy we headed out on Friday morning for Pittsburg State University where my son was competing in a BAHA competition. We drove all day to get there for the next morning. Just North of Carthage MO. With the wife driving I start hearing a ticking noise from the engine. I jumped up to look at the oil pressure gauge and it was all over the place. We shut down the engine and pulled over on the freeway. I discovered that oil had blown all over the underbelly of the MH and all over the passenger’s side and rear of it also. I checked the dip stick and there was no oil on it. While I was waiting for the tow truck my son borrowed a car and brought a few gallons of oil. It took 6 quarts of oil to fill it back up. ( it takes 7.5 to fill it.) When I started the engine oil came blowing out of a switch assy which the oil pressure gauge is also a part of. ( a brass tee that ties into the engine oil port has this switch and pressure gauge sending unit on it) Well I thought that this was going to be an easy fix. The tow truck got me into Lamar Mo about midnight. While it was still up in the air on the tow truck I attempted to unscrew the switch. I had to use a pair of vise grips to grab it and it was tight, with a little more force and SNAP, the brass “T” that the switch was screwed into broke off flush on the engine block. After a few + words I gave up for the night. The tow truck driver was hooking up the driveshaft and he managed to break the bearing cup on the “U” joint. It was not a good night. He went into Joslin the next morning to get parts and all they had was the “U” joint. Once he got back he had brought a set of easy outs with him and proceeded to remove the broken off brass. After a few minutes he is cussing up a storm because he broke off the easy out. By now my nerves are shot and so are my wife’s. Well the easy out broke at the top and not flush like I was expecting. He tried to get out the easy out but the vise grips kept slipping. After a half an hour I gave my hand at it. I tapped on the side of the easy out while I was trying to back it out and it popped right out. So with that out he pulled the drive shaft and took it to the shop to put in the “U” joint. I attempted to pull out the brass piece with the next bigger easy out but it was not budging. I finally made the decision to thread a bolt into the brass so I could get home with it so I could fix it there. In my case of parts and pieces I found the perfect bolt and pushed it in hard while I was turning it with a ratchet. It threaded in with no problem. I backed it out, put a couple of steel washers on it and then a rubber washer, wrapped the heck out of it with Teflon tape and screwed it back in. I had the wife start the engine while I was looking and no oil leak. RELIEF! I ran the engine for 5 or so minutes and still no oil leak. SUCCESS! The driver showed up with the drive shaft installed it and by about 3:00pm Saturday afternoon we were back on the road. I had no oil pressure gauge and the switch that blew was for turning on the electric fuel pump. The mechanical pump worked fine all the way home except for the hills where the carb was a little starved for fuel. All of the way home I kept checking for an oil leak and nothing. Made it home with no more problems, What a shakedown trip for the first one of the year. Thanks to Jim Elliot and Randy/High5 for their support and advise because otherwise I would have went nuts.
I guess what I am saying be careful unscrewing the sending unit and might as well replace the switch while your at it. Mine were frozen on.
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