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Old 08-03-2012, 06:07 PM   #29
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Well, the good news is that I have it running. The bad news is that my secondary fuel pump theory is not going to work. I tried to put it in-line right before the fuel filter assys. It would barely suck out a trickle. I don't know if the fuel pump is froze up and won't let it through or if there is just a bunch of crud at the inlet. Anyway, for grins and to test my theory that it was the fuel pump, I unhooked the MH fuel line from the pump and attached a hose that I stuck in a jug of gas. Fired right up and stayed running.

Sooooo, looks like I will be pulling the tank after all to replace the OEM unit. Now I need to figure out what to do with 90 gals of turpentine.

The engine isn't running perfect. There is a little tick that I haven't fully located yet. Passenger side near the front is as far as I have gotten. Also, doesn't seem to want to idle down properly. Guessing for as long as it's been sitting that a carb rebuild is probably in order?

@BA-in-mich I got the switch and sender swapped out without breaking the "t". Glad that didn't happen to me!
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:24 PM   #30
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I dont know where your filters are in realation to your tank, but.. You must put that inline pump as close as you can to the tank. it must draw the fuel up the pick up and through another pump and adding 5-10 feet of addition fuel line for it to suck through just wont work.. Remember, pumps work by sucking through a large hole(line) and pushing through a small one.

Do you have a mechanical engine driven pump?
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:19 AM   #31
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hope all works out well. boy i miss jim he was a great help. jim RIP ill see you in the future
dave
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:05 AM   #32
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Well, I got the tank down and it's no surprise the fuel pump wasn't working. The rubber boot between the pump and the fuel tube was completely disintegrated. In addition, the tube is nearly completely filled with rust, and the wire for the fuel level float is broken off. The tank itself doesn't look too bad. Has rust in it for sure, but looks like it will clean up pretty easy. Now to try to find a replacement fuel pump/ line assembly.

I am posting a photo of the identifier plate on the side of the RV. Could anyone by chance tell me what model Bounder I have so I can ask for the right part?

Thanks again for everyone's help on my project. I REALLY appreciate it!
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:20 PM   #33
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Well, I thought I was hitting a home run, turns out to be a single.

I called the local Fleetwood dealer and he let me know my rig is on a P37 chassis and recommended I call the local Chevy dealer for the fuel pump. He informed me that he could get it and it would be in-hand in a few hours, even though it was Sat! I told him I needed the entire assembly and he said that was what he had.

I got over there and he had the fuel pump itself, but not the rest of the assembly, which he informed me is called the sending unit. When he tried to look the sending unit up, the system showed discontinued and wouldn't even give him a part number.

I called the local heavy truck GMC shop and he told me that the rights to those chassis had been bought by Workhorse and he gave me a part number of 25090608. His screen showed no pricing or availability. He is going to call on Monday and see what he can come up with.

A quick google search of the above info gave me nothing more than a Workhorse dealer price list. And a Workhorse parts list from a Chevy dealership in Pasedena, TX. I will call them on Mon too.

If I have to use the old sender it's going to be ugly. The rust/ crud factor is very high. Not to mention that the wire on the float for the fuel gauge is broken off. I'm really hoping to not have to go that route.

Does anyone by chance have the part number for the discontinued Chevy part so I could continue my search that way?
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:28 PM   #34
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Just about any that fit and was the correct length would do.. head to NAPA with the part and let them match it.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:19 PM   #35
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@BA-in-mich I got the switch and sender swapped out without breaking the "t". Glad that didn't happen to me!
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:08 AM   #36
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Just about any that fit and was the correct length would do.. head to NAPA with the part and let them match it.
Great idea. This ended up being how I solved the problem. We went through the Chevy senders they had on the shelf and found one that was similar. We had to bend some of the lines, cut off a fitting and plug another line, but we made it work.

I need to get more fuel in the tank before I can confirm everything is 100%. When I checked fuel flow at the filter body it wasn't as much as I would have expected. I only had about 7 gals of fuel, which in that tank can't be more than 1/2" across the bottom. Once I get enough fuel in to completely cover the bottom of the pump I'll be able to say it's fixed with 100% confidence. What kind of flow should I see at the fuel filter housing on the side of the coach?

Now it's on to getting the generator and the rest of the systems up and running!

Thanks so much for everyone's help! I really appreciate it.
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:23 AM   #37
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While you are addressing fuel issues go on and replace every rubber line that runs to the engine and generator. They may look ok but they are old and its better to problems on your schedule.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:42 PM   #38
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So here is the latest issue I'm working on. Hoping for a bit of carb advice. Let me say out of the box that I know close to nothing about tuning automobile carbs...

I can't get my carb to idle down. We have found and fixed a number of vacuum leaks. Beyond that, not sure where to go next. As you might recall, this coach has been sitting since 2003. Am I just looking at a professional cleaning? Is there anything else that might be the culprit that I could explore?

Any advice would be great.

The carb is a quadrajet. Can anyone tell me the model/ PN that I have by looking at the pics?

Thanks again for all the great advice from the membership here- hugely helpful!!
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:37 PM   #39
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So here is the latest issue I'm working on. Hoping for a bit of carb advice. Let me say out of the box that I know close to nothing about tuning automobile carbs...

I can't get my carb to idle down. We have found and fixed a number of vacuum leaks. Beyond that, not sure where to go next. As you might recall, this coach has been sitting since 2003. Am I just looking at a professional cleaning? Is there anything else that might be the culprit that I could explore?

Any advice would be great.

The carb is a quadrajet. Can anyone tell me the model/ PN that I have by looking at the pics?

Thanks again for all the great advice from the membership here- hugely helpful!!

Although the Quadrajet is a fantastic carb... by the time you pull it apart clean and rebuild... your better off putting an Edlebrock direct replacement carb way easier to tune and set up to your MH
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:52 AM   #40
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Although the Quadrajet is a fantastic carb... by the time you pull it apart clean and rebuild... your better off putting an Edlebrock direct replacement carb way easier to tune and set up to your MH
Was afraid someone might say that. Anyone know what the Edlebrock replacement PN might be?
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:09 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Was afraid someone might say that. Anyone know what the Edlebrock replacement PN might be?
I strongly agree that the Edlebrock direct replacement is a good bet. The autoparts store can help you with fitment.

Unless you are looking for some kind of Retro-Resto look, rebuilding the old carb isn't going to give you the reliability of the newer engineered carbs.

I paid just over $200 at NAPA for the "Performer" I put on small block. It was a direct bolt-on.

And, you can mail order them for less $$ if you are willing to wait for shipping. They are about $100 (rebuilt) to well over $300 for the chromed models.

Best of luck
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:05 PM   #42
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If it was like mine the electric choke is bad. It is suppose to release a lever so it will kick down to idle but because the coil in the choke goes bad the lever won't release. You can mechanically do it by hand. I think I paid 30-40 for a new choke assy. Couldn't fix the old one. The other thing that goes bad an the Qjets are the floats. They break down and sink into the gas. And the power valves have a tendency of sticking. it's all happened to mine, everything if fixed now and it runs like a champ.
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