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Old 03-18-2014, 07:18 AM   #29
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Looked at Home Depot site and it is not clear which Zep product to use. Can anyone clarify what Zep to buy?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:30 AM   #30
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I use Zep wet look " and have always had great results, I have also heard of people using the " high traffic " but have not used it myself
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:07 PM   #31
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Winnie looks Great!!!
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Old 03-20-2014, 06:15 AM   #32
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Both the "wet look" and the "high traffic" will work. The stripper is only necessary if you get heavy runs in the Zep or get it on something you didn't want it on.

MAKE SURE you google the threads for applying this stuff (look for the threads on Red Max Pro, which is now only sold under the ZEP brand).

Short version: first you must get all the stains, old wax and chalky oxidization off the surface with TSP or Bar Keepers Friends and a white scrubby pad- then rinse, rinse, rinse. Old wax and dirt will mess this finish up, so take your time prepping the surface.

Then apply the ZEP in very thin layers, exactly like you were wiping dust off the surface with a damp rag (dip a lintless or microfiber cloth in ZEP and wring out so its just damp OR use same cloth and spray the ZEP on the cloth- use an empty household spray bottle). You don't want drips and runs, which will harden almost immediately.

3 to 5 coats is usual (very thin, remember) but it just wipes on- very fast. Usually you can just go all the way around and by then its dry enough for the next coat. It can look very streaky for the few coats- don't give up, its just needs a few more.

You can't really overdo it, and it works on fiberglass, painted metal and plastic. Turns those grayish mountings on your mirrors and bumpers black again!
But be careful going over old decals- some will color streak, so do it carefully along the length of the decal. Once the first coat is on, no further problems.

The shine generally lasts for a year or even several, but most people do a single coat in the spring to freshen up the shine. No need to do the heavy prep-work, just wash normally with soap and water and wipe on a single coat.

Its the best stuff, hands down, for old chalky finishes.

You will probably use less than half a gallon doing 5 coats the first time, and you can save the rest for next spring.
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Old 03-20-2014, 06:47 AM   #33
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I would suggest not using stripper unless you are stripping the whole coach. The stripper will leave an edge that is very visible on dark colors. You can use fine sand paper (1500 grit) on runs, but it is best to just clean up and runs when they happen.
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:34 AM   #34
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ZEP representative says ZEP Hi traffic is the exact replacement to Red Max Pro and is the harder of the 2 products. Note: when red max pro or zep goes bad with age (3 yrs in the desert) It is a bear to remove but still worth it. Shine, Shine!
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:05 AM   #35
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I wonder if the reason people have problems with ZEP is because they put it on too thick. Paint is much more likely to flake off if put on too thick, so no reason ZEP would not be the same way. I only have 2 coats on my coach, and I'm going on 3 years, and it still looks like it did when first applied. It doesn't have a "deep" shine, but looks as good as a really good wax job.

In theory, being in the desert should have no affect on how long ZEP lasts. ZEP is an Acrylic based product. Acrylic is completely transparent to UV. Since it does not absorb any of the UV energy, UV has no impact on it.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:14 AM   #36
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dull exterior

Honey Badger gave very clear instructions, only one thing he left out you must use rubber gloves or you will have to wear off the zep on you hands. I did my mh about 2 1/2 years ago and it stil looks great and thin coats is the secreat. I live in Texas and heat and sun don't bother the Zep. Rember perperation is he key clean off all old wax etc. I wish I had found out about Zep years ago I use to was my coach every 4 to 6 mos. Lots of work Zep touch up is a breeze. Best results when weather is in the 70's keep them shiney.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveinet View Post
I wonder if the reason people have problems with ZEP is because they put it on too thick. Paint is much more likely to flake off if put on too thick, so no reason ZEP would not be the same way. I only have 2 coats on my coach, and I'm going on 3 years, and it still looks like it did when first applied. It doesn't have a "deep" shine, but looks as good as a really good wax job.

In theory, being in the desert should have no affect on how long ZEP lasts. ZEP is an Acrylic based product. Acrylic is completely transparent to UV. Since it does not absorb any of the UV energy, UV has no impact on it.
Not only the desert. When I camp on the beach, I am right on the beach with salt spray. One time, I had 1/6 inch layer of salt on my rig after a Pacific storm
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:05 AM   #38
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Just a quick word of warning to neophyte Zep/RMP users - I've been a fan since 2010 when I first put it on my 88 Bounder - and I'll reiterate, PREP is the key - you MUST have a clean, wax-free, dirt-free base or you will end up with the shiniest dirt and crud on the block. However, DO NOT use it on clear-coated or automotive type finishes. It does not play well with them. Old fiberglass or as some have noted, aluminum. Remember it's a FLOOR FINISH at heart. And thin coats are best - spray and wipe, let dry. You do not need to apply it like paint - one pass over the area with a dampened WHITE microfiber is best. Do not use a colored rag, as the color MAY run. Apply in temps above 70F. Watch for bugs landing in the wet. Do not apply on pure rubber - that's where the 303 Protectant goes. Some have used in on glass, but I don't see where that can help anything. It really is the best for old faded fiberglass and non-clearcoated metal.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:58 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiminJersey View Post
Just a quick word of warning to neophyte Zep/RMP users - I've been a fan since 2010 when I first put it on my 88 Bounder - and I'll reiterate, PREP is the key - you MUST have a clean, wax-free, dirt-free base or you will end up with the shiniest dirt and crud on the block. However, DO NOT use it on clear-coated or automotive type finishes. It does not play well with them. Old fiberglass or as some have noted, aluminum. Remember it's a FLOOR FINISH at heart. And thin coats are best - spray and wipe, let dry. You do not need to apply it like paint - one pass over the area with a dampened WHITE microfiber is best. Do not use a colored rag, as the color MAY run. Apply in temps above 70F. Watch for bugs landing in the wet. Do not apply on pure rubber - that's where the 303 Protectant goes. Some have used in on glass, but I don't see where that can help anything. It really is the best for old faded fiberglass and non-clearcoated metal.
Thanks for the tips. And by non-clear coated metals do you mean aluminum siding? Thanks
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:19 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by TravisNuwa81 View Post
Thanks for the tips. And by non-clear coated metals do you mean aluminum siding? Thanks
I don't know what it would do for or against aluminum siding. Test it on an inconspicuous spot? By "non-clear coated" I meant thinks like old mirror surrounds, window frames, etc. Not chrome, not automotive finishes. Not wood or rubber or anything even semi-porous. Old fiberglass. This is the only area I have experience with, so I can not speak for other applications.

I have a pic of my Bounder just before we headed X-country back in June of 2012. This was after three refresher coats of Red Max Pro, which was simply the LOWES branded version of Zep's Wet Look.
Click "Intro", below:
Intro
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