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KrisD · 09-06-2018, 03:59 AM

Good Morning from Michigan!
My husband and I purchased a piece of land in northern MI and have placed our 93 Innsbruck by Gulfstream on it. We are using battery power for lights and pump, but are wanting to use propane for fridge and water heat. We've never done this, and have no manuals for instruction. Does anyone own a similar model and could help guide us through it? The writing near the water heater is unreadable:-(

Share your thoughts and thanks so much!

Kris

okcnewbie · 09-06-2018, 05:34 AM

From a Michigander in Oklahoma.

All of your appliances (except maybe the stove) need your battery power to run the control/electronics. So the fridge and water heater will still use the batteries. How are you keeping the batteries charged?
Your best bet for learning about each item is getting the model number and downloading the manual. If you can't read the model number than maybe you can get a number off of the circuit board under the water heater door. Most of these systems are common from RV to RV.

Old-Biscuit · 09-06-2018, 11:58 AM

Here are photos of various water heaters -----which one is yours?

#1) Atwood Gas....Pilot

#2) Atwood Gas......Electronic Spark

#3) Suburban Gas---Pilot

#4) Suburban Gas..Electronic Spark

Atwood Water Heaters.......combustion chamber/lower right & exhaust/top left (diagonal 'U' tube)

Suburban Water Heaters....combustion chamber/lower right & exhaust/top right (stacked 'U' tube)

Pilot .........manual lighting
Electronic Spark.....Battery supplies required DC for circuit board

Fridges..
Too many different models so...........
Does it have 'Display' panel with lights/buttons (requires DC power)
Does it have manual controls/knobs ----old cabinet style fridge...manual light

KrisD · 09-09-2018, 06:21 PM

Okay, the bottom picture looks like ours, we think!!

Old-Biscuit · 09-10-2018, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisD

Okay, the bottom picture looks like ours, we think!!

Well it is or it isn't----

#4 is a Suburban water heater with electronic ignition ,,,,,,,,,means you fill water heater tank with water, valve in your propane supply (at tank/cylinders) and then turn the Water Heater Switch for GAS ON.
IF you have good 12V DC via battery or shore power then the Spark Electrode (big orange wire at burner) will SPARK while gas valve solenoids are energized opening gas valve...when propane is present the SPARK will ignite main flame and heat the water.

IF the water heater is a COMBO (electric heat & propane) there will be an ON/OFF Switch in lower left corner in that outside compartment. It is for turning the Electric Heat Element ON/OFF.
MUST have water in WH Tank before turning on or element will burn out within a few minutes or less.

KrisD · 09-10-2018, 06:31 PM

Well I wish I could say for sure, but our camper is not with us! It is on our property 3.5 hours away. We will check for sure when we go visit on the weekend. Thanks for the information!

KrisD · 09-10-2018, 06:33 PM

Also, there is an on and off switch in the camper above the kitchen sink that says HW. We assume that is the switch for the hot water heater. Does this make sense for that type of HW heater?

Old-Biscuit · 09-10-2018, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisD

Also, there is an on and off switch in the camper above the kitchen sink that says HW. We assume that is the switch for the hot water heater. Does this make sense for that type of HW heater?

YES......
That will be for the Propane

Need water, propane and 12V DC power

Because propane system has not been used in awhile it WILL take several attempts to get main flame to light.
Valve in the propane cylinders (open the valve slowly) then light off stove top burners on high to establish flow/demand on propane regulator.
Water heater tank full of water (cold inlet valve open/bypass valve if equipped closed/hot out valve open---water pump on) then turn that HW switch ON.
Should hear/see strong spark inside combustion chamber where that large orange wire goes...spark electrode.
Main flame not light off first few times....if RED light by HW switch stays ON then turn switch off and back on to reset and try again until main flame lights
After main flame lights off should have HOT water in roughly 30 minutes or so depending on initial water temp

Hot water GOOD

KrisD · 09-11-2018, 03:37 AM

Thank you so much! All of this information will be transferred to my husband, as it has gone RIGHT OVER MY HEAD!! LOL

We will give it a whirl, and hopefully have hot water next time we go up!

Your a Master! Thanks again!!
Kris

RKins · 09-11-2018, 05:21 AM

On my Suburban WH I have a couple switches inside - one for firing it by propane and another for firing it by electric. In the picture below, center bottom is our tank levels display. To the immediate right is a black switch plate with red light (even has the S for Suburban) - that is how I fire it up via propane. To the right of that switch you see a white switch plate with a red light - that is how I fire it up via electric. I remember somewhere reading that to get electric heater you have to have both switches on (the one out on the heater itself + the white one in pic below). The one out on the heater is a safeguard to make sure you don't heat by electric when the tank is empty (as OB mentioned earlier). I leave that switch off unless I know for sure I'll be heating with electric.

Old-Biscuit · 09-11-2018, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKins

On my Suburban WH I have a couple switches inside - one for firing it by propane and another for firing it by electric. In the picture below, center bottom is our tank levels display. To the immediate right is a black switch plate with red light (even has the S for Suburban) - that is how I fire it up via propane. To the right of that switch you see a white switch plate with a red light - that is how I fire it up via electric. I remember somewhere reading that to get electric heater you have to have both switches on (the one out on the heater itself + the white one in pic below). The one out on the heater is a safeguard to make sure you don't heat by electric when the tank is empty (as OB mentioned earlier). I leave that switch off unless I know for sure I'll be heating with electric.

IF RV MFG 'added' a 2nd switch for electric -------Suburban OEM is just the one in outside compartment.
One inside RV ---that is a RV MFG addition and YES both switches have to be on for electric

IF....water heater is combo electric/propane AND IF RV MFG added that extra switch.

KrisD · 09-22-2018, 11:22 AM

Okay, we are back at the camper! Propane tanks are turned on, bit we cannot even get the stove to light....any ideas??? This camper has been sitting for many years......help!! Lol. We are in need of the furnace! Got down to 40 here last night;-)

ga traveler · 09-22-2018, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrisD

Okay, we are back at the camper! Propane tanks are turned on, bit we cannot even get the stove to light....any ideas??? This camper has been sitting for many years......help!! Lol. We are in need of the furnace! Got down to 40 here last night;-)

Make sure the valve at the tank is open. Make sure the gas detector is turned on. Of course make sure you have gas. If the gas has not been used in a while, you will need to turn on an eye on the stove for a minute or so to get fresh gas in the line.

Skip426 · 09-22-2018, 11:43 AM

If you have propane in the tanks ; turning the valves on too quickly ( with air in the lines and not gas ) may have triggered the tanks ; broken line safety valve.

To re-set the safety valve , close the valve on the tanks and open them very slowly, the valve is held open by back pressure in the system , then try and light the stove top .
With sitting for this extended period , failure of the system's pressure regulator is also a possibility.