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Old 07-22-2015, 01:49 PM   #15
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thank you. i will just get a key then and have the tank checked (it actually has some propane in it)

for the battery there are three outside compartments. the lpg one with only the tank, the one to access the back of the refrigerator no battery there and the one i have not opened which i think is water access.

inside i have checked behind every door and no batter or even cables to hook one up. it looks like it was rewired by the last owner (who admitted doing a lot of work on it) it has these panels for power and i guess what i am going to have to do is search on the panels to get a wiring diagram then splice in a battery connection so i can have a battery in the camper in addition to the one in the truck (not a problem since i was planning on adding solar panels and a twin deep cycle battery set up anyway)



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Old 07-22-2015, 02:31 PM   #16
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Is it possible to contact the previous owner and ask some questions?

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Old 07-22-2015, 04:35 PM   #17
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Is it possible to contact the previous owner and ask some questions?

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yes, i do still have his phone number i guess a call cannot hurt
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:34 PM   #18
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If this has been sitting it is very possible that some little spiders have taken up residence in the gas jet for the refrig. They seem drawn to the LP smell and will clog the nozzle totally if left mg enough. You have to remove the tube at the burner and blow out the little critters with compressed air. Don't use wire. I have used a BBQ lighter to get the propane lit at the frig. It could take a while to get the gas there for lighting.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:16 PM   #19
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If this has been sitting it is very possible that some little spiders have taken up residence in the gas jet for the refrig. They seem drawn to the LP smell and will clog the nozzle totally if left mg enough. You have to remove the tube at the burner and blow out the little critters with compressed air. Don't use wire. I have used a BBQ lighter to get the propane lit at the frig. It could take a while to get the gas there for lighting.
this would take two people right? one inside holding the button down and one outside with the lighter?
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:38 PM   #20
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An LP tank that is made for horizontal use is a completely different construction than the normal upright one used on your BBQ and available on exchanges. They are NOT interchangeable.
That is very good advice. I would add that make certain it is reinstalled in exactly the same orientation that it is in when you remove it to refill.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:35 PM   #21
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Few truck campers contained a battery when this one was built (late 70's/early 80's maybe?). Most were wired to the truck's battery, and if extra power was desired, an extra, possibly dedicated, battery was installed under the hood of the truck.

This refer does not need 12v for anything - unless it's equipped to run on 12v - which is something they did back then (though they didn't work real well). That could go either way? Gas side is all mechanical. Electric side is 110v. with mechanical t-stat. Nice and simple.

If it's plugged in and turned on, the back should be getting warm. If not, you'll need to trace the power leading to the heating element - that's the wires in that white jacket leading to the right side in the pic. If you have 110v there, but no heat, the element is shot.

Gas side is likely going to need to be taken apart and cleaned (burner and pilot).

Refer needs to be LEVEL to work, both directions, no more than half a bubble off (max).

That Shurtron appears to be a small power convertor. If the camper is plugged in, it should provide enough power for the interior lights.

That tank looks fine to me. I would just have it filled. If it were a big ball of rust, that would be a different matter.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:03 PM   #22
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Few truck campers contained a battery when this one was built (late 70's/early 80's maybe?). Most were wired to the truck's battery, and if extra power was desired, an extra, possibly dedicated, battery was installed under the hood of the truck.

This refer does not need 12v for anything - unless it's equipped to run on 12v - which is something they did back then (though they didn't work real well). That could go either way? Gas side is all mechanical. Electric side is 110v. with mechanical t-stat. Nice and simple.

If it's plugged in and turned on, the back should be getting warm. If not, you'll need to trace the power leading to the heating element - that's the wires in that white jacket leading to the right side in the pic. If you have 110v there, but no heat, the element is shot.

Gas side is likely going to need to be taken apart and cleaned (burner and pilot).

Refer needs to be LEVEL to work, both directions, no more than half a bubble off (max).

That Shurtron appears to be a small power convertor. If the camper is plugged in, it should provide enough power for the interior lights.

That tank looks fine to me. I would just have it filled. If it were a big ball of rust, that would be a different matter.
thank you, yes it is a 1977

the fridge is a 3 way, 12/110v and gas. i need to find a level place close enough to my cord so i can do the 110v (i have a 100' extension) and i guess clean the gas items first.

is there some place i can search and get some sort of wiring diagram and some help on adding an isolated battery in the camper so i can add the solar to it? i am sure it can be done but it will be much easier if i can see how someone else did it
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:21 PM   #23
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Ok, a couple of things here. First, a 1977 refrigerator would not require any 12 volt power to run, since they didn't have electronic control boards. They used a simple thermostat control. If you can't get it to light, there is something plugging the gas line, or the regulator is shot. I don't know how you determined that it isn't starting on 110, but you might try unplugging it from the camper and plugging it directly in to an extension cord. It will take several hours to get cold, if it does at all. 38 years is really old in refrigerator years!


As for the tank, even though it might pass the re certification with the rust and everything, I've found several dealers that won't fill a tank if it looks "funky". Take it out, sand the rust off it and repaint it. You'll never have a problem.


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Old 07-23-2015, 07:28 AM   #24
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I'd be really surprised to hear you found a wiring diagram that would show enough detail to be of any help installing and wiring in a battery. You're going to need to be a little creative there.

There's got to be a pigtail of some sort on the outside of the camper, near the left front corner of the section that fits in the box of the truck. If not, there's likely a quick coupler. That's where the 12v power for the tail, turn, and interior power is connected. Generally, if you look in that area on the inside, you should find that harness and maybe some fuses. That's where your battery and anything else you plan on doing will need to be connected.

To figure out which wire is which, we used to use a small battery charger. You ground one lead from the charger to the skin of the coach (or whatever is handy), and touch the positive lead from the charger to one wire at a time to see what comes on. Should only take a minute to figure out your own "wiring diagram".

Best of luck.
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:35 AM   #25
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I'd be really surprised to hear you found a wiring diagram that would show enough detail to be of any help installing and wiring in a battery. You're going to need to be a little creative there.

There's got to be a pigtail of some sort on the outside of the camper, near the left front corner of the section that fits in the box of the truck. If not, there's likely a quick coupler. That's where the 12v power for the tail, turn, and interior power is connected. Generally, if you look in that area on the inside, you should find that harness and maybe some fuses. That's where your battery and anything else you plan on doing will need to be connected.

To figure out which wire is which, we used to use a small battery charger. You ground one lead from the charger to the skin of the coach (or whatever is handy), and touch the positive lead from the charger to one wire at a time to see what comes on. Should only take a minute to figure out your own "wiring diagram".

Best of luck.
cool, i had never thought of using my charger to provide a signal to detect. once i know which leads are which i can splice a battery in and even provide an isolation switch. the solar rv kit even provides a lot of what i will need
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:27 PM   #26
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Reasonably level, like not more than half a bubble or so. The current model specify 6% Front to back (camper side to side), 3% side to side (camper front to back

Key should be ch751 and all campers have the same key. The locks are little spade deals that you should be able to pop with a screwdriver if not.
i am afraid that the ch751 key that i bought does not unlock it and there really is no space for me to fit a screwdriver in there in order to try to pry the spade over
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:45 PM   #27
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Does that old fridge even have electronic ignition, or a pilot lite, that needs to be started from outside?
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:51 PM   #28
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Wow, there's a thought from ancient times/way back in the memory banks. Forgot about lighting those old ones. Pic of the back shows no pilot button, so it must be inside. That means it's lit from the inside, with a push button/piezo igniter (clicker) or a zip tube - requiring a match to light a tube with a lot of small holes in it leading back to the refer burner. Zip tubes always seemed scary here....
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