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Old 11-02-2006, 10:39 AM   #15
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The tile I was talking about is 12" sq with beveled edges looks real nice and stands up well and easy to clean. Its about 1/8" thick self sticking. Plan to add more in rug area at entrance to my coach.
Had Pergo in coach had to keep sweeping so stones on shoes and from outside wouldn't scratch floor dark floor maybe a lite floor you wouldn't notice, more work and cutting.
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:19 PM   #16
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Could you get me a name on those tiles? Do they hold up like wood, or like tile? Or are they just a lino tile? I'm looking for something now that would be stonelike in appearance and longevity, but woodlike in weight. I have decided on using 3/4" plywood over the original stringers, directly replacing the particle board. I will replace the loose batting with 3 1/2" (R-13) fiberglass insulation. The 3 1/2" is the thinest I have found to date. I do not want to use the loose stuff as it does not seem like it is a good material to cover the entire underfloor with. Just too much chance of shifting.
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1977 Overland 30' Class A (Felicity)

Dodge 440 in an M500 chassis
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:00 AM   #17
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Your making headway the tiles I have seen are made by Armstrong, the ones in my MH are ordered by part # from Newmar they do not say MFG name but are similar and they are heavier than lino.
Blanket insul is good the loose stuff would settle no good.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:33 AM   #18
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I'll go along with 007 thinking that as nice as a wood laminate looks it's a chore to install and imho not the best choice for a camper. In fact we were thinking of it for our rig but have decided to go with a sheet vinyl that looks just like wood flooring. It will be our spring project. Happy Trails!!
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:04 PM   #19
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Our 1977 Midas Mini (Dodge Chassis) has a plywood over foam insulation over metal for the floor. Plywood weighs less than particleboard. Remove all rotted wood, don't just cover it up. Make sure you have fixed the leak. Ceramic/stone tile is heavy and will lower the amount of stuff you can carry. We are planning on installing parquet wood floor tiles. It is fairly lightweight yet will give us the wood we want (with an electric heating pad inder the wood... our dog likes warm floors). The way the parquet tiles are put together will make it easy to install around the few walls & cabinets. Walls are built on top of the floor.

Parts for the Chassis section are bought as the van model not the RV model.

Check out http://www.rvingthemidwestconnection.com for manuals. If you can't find any there, post that you are looking.
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:47 AM   #20
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Sanjay, there's a company in Florida that does quite a bit of business with vintage RVs called Camping Connection;

www.campingconnectionrv.com
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Old 11-06-2006, 04:02 PM   #21
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Thanks, guys. I was not talking about doing a lood laminate. I was thinking instead of a laminate that looks and wears like stone. The thick tiles seem to be the best bet at the moment, but I would want something really hard wearing. I'll check thist two links out for info on manuals and such. Oh, and my coach is not built off of a van chassis, but a truck one.
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:52 PM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Sanjay R:
...my coach is not built off of a van chassis, but a truck one... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Matters not what type of chassis. If you need parts for the chassis, then you need to reference to the chassis not the RV. Ditto for motor.
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Old 11-08-2006, 01:31 PM   #23
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Yes, I picked up a Dodge pick-up manual by Haynes to cover the motor. I'll have to see if I can find anything to cover the M500 chassis specificly. In the meantime, I was able to figure out the awning over the door, and actually got it out and up. Now I have a covered porch for when the weather turns . . .Ummm. . . wet.
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1977 Overland 30' Class A (Felicity)

Dodge 440 in an M500 chassis
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Old 11-27-2006, 09:08 PM   #24
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Hi Sanjay R,

You mentioned that you "picked up a Dodge pick-up manual by Haynes to cover the motor,and that you'd have to see if you can find anything to cover the M500 chassis specificly."

You may want to be careful about using a manual for a pick-up. I don't know if your unit has a 440 in it or a 360. (Since it is an M-500 chassis I'll assume it has a 440. More specifically, a 440-3 There is also a 360-3.) The -3 versions of these two engines were designed to produce more torque than those found in the pleasure vehicle versions. Many items are the same but there are others that can vary drastically. One of them that I am aware of is the routing of cooling channels between the block and the heads. Use of heads from the pleasure vehicle versions of these engines on the -3 blocks will result in overheating problems that could be severe enough to destroy the block. There may be other differences that I am not yet aware of as well. Maybe some other owners of vintage coaches on Dodge chassis may be able to add more info on this topic. I noticed in one of your previous postings that you had found a chassis manual for the unit that cost about $60.00. Don't pass this up just because of the cost. My coach is a 32' 1979 Holiday Rambler - Imperial 5000. It is built on the M-600 chassis and is powered by the 440-3 engine ahead of the A-727 Loadflite transmission. As with the engine, the transmission is a different version from that of the pleasure vehicle. The (Torqueflite may appear to be the same as the one in your coach, but the RV version has heavier duty internal components. I don't know what the 1977 version of the chassis manual consists of but I'm assuming that it is much the same as mine, and mine covers the M-300, M-400, M-500 and M-600. There are 486 pages making up 18 chapters. I paid roughly the same price as you had mentioned and the manual is worth every penny of the purchase price. The first time you have to find a chassis wiring problem you will see what I mean. You would be hard pressed to find this information in any other manual, and you surely won't find any of todays service personnel that are familiar with these old systems.

There is actually very little in the manual that is chassis specific. That is to say that the manual concentrates on individual systems such as braking, suspension, cooling, electrical, engine, fuel systems, transmission, etc., and makes note within any section of any differences based on the chassis being used. I think you will find that revisiting the option of purchasing the chassis manual may be one of the best investments you can make.

Good Luck,
Woodshaver
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Old 11-28-2006, 12:14 PM   #25
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Thank you for that. Interestingly enough, I am experiencing some overheating problems, though I suspect that it may have more to do with the engine sitting for two decades with fluids in it than the wrong parts being used. I'll be flushing out the block and replacing the waterpump, thermostat, and radiator before I try to drive any distance with this rig. I'll also be changing out the fluid in the tranny, as well as the filter. On top of that, I'll be needing to replace (as rebilding wold be the same cost) the carb and the exausts. the exausts I have now are made of swiss cheese, and I want to replace the manifolds with headers anyway.
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