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Old 04-09-2012, 04:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Is there a brush on glue that would work to secure luan to the foam board and the foam to the fiberglass outer skin panels
Epoxy...
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:40 PM   #16
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Rotted wall water dammage

Talked to dh and wanted to make a correction to one statement I made that was a result of memory failure. Doen't you hate when that happens. Use Heavy duty liquid nails on the interior when you are adhering the 1" styrofoam to the inside fiberglass or aluminum. Use a very generous amt. This is why as we were doing the repairs I took the time to take pictures and do descriptions as we went along. You can check this out on the HiLotrailer forum.com Under 1990 Classic Restoration. It is under off topic. This would be well worth your time to read this. This it what worked for us.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:37 PM   #17
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Found my Photo bucket pictures of how to repair a rotted wall

Found my post of the restoration of 1990 Classic HiLo. 2-29-2012. Page 3. Start by viewing the last pictures 1st. as they are not in order. Hope this helps with your wall rebuild.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:33 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Is there a brush on glue that would work to secure luan to the foam board and the foam to the fiberglass outer skin panels
Got all my supplies, One sheet of Luan doorskin, one sheet of one inch thick foamboard, three tubes of loctite pl300 foam adhesive, a spray bottle of goo gone which takes the glue off fiberglass in a snap and brand new veneer saw blade for my table saw or hand saw (fits Both) and one other thing called a snozzle it goes on the end of a caulking tube and spreads 11 rows of glue at once. the snozzle is at HD in the aisle where they sell floor tile glue, 3 bucks. Almost ready to start, got to get a pt 2 x 4 to rip down to size to replace the verticle support under the passenger windshield corner and the lower steel frame, the original one was rotted to a sponge. There was 2 ea upright support boards in there which was right under the leak
still need some heavy duty liquid nails
I will take pictures as I go along
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:04 PM   #19
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How to repair a rotted wall

We bought many tubes of heavy Duty liquid nails at Walmart as they hd the cheapest price. Two something a tube. Do want you think is best.We used bondo 2-part epoxy on the interior fiberglass to make sure we had no pinpoint leaks. Then we used a generous amt. of Lexell caulk at all the edges before we applied the styrofoam and anywhere we could. We don't have any leaks to repair again. Hope this helps and I look forward to seeing your pictures/posts. Then go camping.!!
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:13 PM   #20
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We bought many tubes of heavy Duty liquid nails at Walmart as they hd the cheapest price. Two something a tube. Do want you think is best.We used bondo 2-part epoxy on the interior fiberglass to make sure we had no pinpoint leaks. Then we used a generous amt. of Lexell caulk at all the edges before we applied the styrofoam and anywhere we could. We don't have any leaks to repair again. Hope this helps and I look forward to seeing your pictures/posts. Then go camping.!!
Got the repair started, when we removed the last of the interior paneling and foam under the dash we discovered what appeared to be a pair of rotted out 2 x 4's that were upright and looked like they were supports for the windshiel and roof. Spent yesterday ripping a board down to exactly the thickness of the steel frames, it was a challenge but we got the boards in place, Today we are working on the luan installation, not as simple as I thought it would be, almost did it all wrong, I was gonna make a foam luan sandwich and stuff it between the steel beams when some one said the first sheets of luan must go outside the frame and under the exterior skin like they did at the factory, I figured out how to do that, pictures later or tomorrow
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam-3 View Post
We bought many tubes of heavy Duty liquid nails at Walmart as they hd the cheapest price. Two something a tube. Do want you think is best.We used bondo 2-part epoxy on the interior fiberglass to make sure we had no pinpoint leaks. Then we used a generous amt. of Lexell caulk at all the edges before we applied the styrofoam and anywhere we could. We don't have any leaks to repair again. Hope this helps and I look forward to seeing your pictures/posts. Then go camping.!!
We removed the passenger window, found more rot, have to hand make a little piece of wood to fit in the lower front of window, it has a unique curve at one side and a triangle shape at the other, it's gonna be a trial and error as the old piece was perished. picture shows the rotted piece of wood, cleaned up interior window frame, banged out dents and painted it gloss black
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