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Old 04-07-2012, 04:46 PM   #1
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How do I repair rotted wall

Well here I am with another issue.
The passeneger side wall panel from the front of the side window to the entry door is rotted. We removed the swivel chair and the passenger captains chair to have access, and what a mess it was. We are down to the backside of the outside fiberglass wall.
It appears that the thin wall is reinforced with thick foam insulation with both side covered in what looks like doorskin (very thin plywood) and the the interior paneling was glued to that.
We are cleaning the residue off the fiberglass with goo gone and it is coming off quickly, but smelly
How do I fix the wall? I have a sheet of one inch foam board and I tried to spray some contact cement on it but the cement started to melt the foam.
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Picture one is the wall as we were stating to get into the job
Picture two is the backside of the outside wall partially cleaned off with goo gone
picture three is the foam panels removed with smelly remaining wood on them
once again HELP
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:09 PM   #2
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Have you tried Panel Adhesive? You might be able to use it to attach the foam board. Try a little bit first to make sure it won't afffect the foam board.

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Old 04-07-2012, 08:41 PM   #3
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They make special adhesives for foam board. My concern would be will it affect structural integrity of sidewall?

Best wishes.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:16 PM   #4
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first the plywood panel is 1/8th louann board 2nd you will have to glue it on with water based glue like elmers furniture glue .then you can put wall paper ,contact paper etc on top of the louann .you do know that the window was leaking? best fix that or u will have the same problem again. this is not as bad a job as u might think .just do your home work and it will turn out ok,
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:55 PM   #5
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Liquid Nails LN-604 and Locktite PL300 are both foam board adhesives.

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Old 04-08-2012, 09:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampdog View Post
first the plywood panel is 1/8th louann board 2nd you will have to glue it on with water based glue like elmers furniture glue .then you can put wall paper ,contact paper etc on top of the louann .you do know that the window was leaking? best fix that or u will have the same problem again. this is not as bad a job as u might think .just do your home work and it will turn out ok,
While the wall was opened up we wanted to see where the leak was, the wife squirted water on the window and there was no leak except for a small area where the water was getting past the sliding window bottom seal, then she decided to sprinkle it up and let it fall down on the roof and run off like rain, Holy crap after a few minutes we had big leaks coming in from the top of the window frame, one was leaking on the inside of the window and one was leaking coming out the bottom of the frame.

We removed the bath window last month to change the paneling in there and got a 50 ft roll of putty tape from the RV parts place near us, with the advice to suspect every window in any RV over 10 years OLD.

It was not hard to R & R the window, the window is like a sandwich with the rv wall in between. the putty tape goes on the outside frame and when you tighten the inside screws it squeezes the window frames together and oozes out the unneeded putty. The rv guy suggested that as a further precaution once the window is reinstalled and you have driven it for a few miles to then seal around the frame with silicone as a back up for the putty tape. He said that driving it around a little will help to reseat the window as the RV flexes as it moves. I did not realize that but it makes sense.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:17 PM   #7
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I used 1/8" paneling from Menards.. Tore out to the aluminum, cut and slid the panels in between the aluminum and rafters (this was my roof) and glued with liquid nails. I used cinder blocks on the roof to provide pressure over night (only over the rafters ). Then I used some spray on, heavy duty/industrial 3m contact cement to secure the pink foam board, and then again along with more liquid nails and 1/4" staples to secure the inside 1/8" paneling.

I had pics, but cant seem to locate them now..

Lot easier to do with the window out..
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:11 PM   #8
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I would not recommend silicone as a sealant for your windows. Even after putty tape. Search around this forum and most recommend a sealant like DICOR.

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Old 04-08-2012, 02:16 PM   #9
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I would not recommend silicone as a sealant for your windows. Even after putty tape. Search around this forum and most recommend a sealant like DICOR.

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Ditto
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:25 PM   #10
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Silicone on the TOP ONLY of your windows will help prevent the black streaks that sometimes happen as the putty tape ages. Does nothing as far as waterproofing, of course.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampdog View Post
first the plywood panel is 1/8th louann board 2nd you will have to glue it on with water based glue like elmers furniture glue .then you can put wall paper ,contact paper etc on top of the louann .you do know that the window was leaking? best fix that or u will have the same problem again. this is not as bad a job as u might think .just do your home work and it will turn out ok,
Is there a brush on glue that would work to secure luan to the foam board and the foam to the fiberglass outer skin panels
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:10 PM   #12
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Repairing rotted wall

We spent 2-3 days from Sept,2011 until Jan.2012 restoring our severely water dammaged walls. I talked to our HiLo dealer and the factory where they repair/laminate the walls. I will share with you what we did and tried and what worked. First you mucst take out every window and reinstall with butyl tape. On the exterior of the window use only Lexell caulk(Ace hardwear) or Silka !a caulk. No silicone as it has no Uv protection. On the outside of your rig you must remove all old caulk or as much as possible. Fix all leaks our your worl will be wasted. On the inside scrape off the brown paper as much as you can.Then go to an automotive store and purchase 2part epoxy bondo to coat the inside of the fiberglass wall. Could have pinholes that you can't see. Follow all directions and ventilate/Respirator. Then when dry we placed 1' white sheets of insulation in wall.Then we caulked width and length around insulation for extra waterproofing. Next I stained 4x8 sheets of 1'8 Laun both sides. When dry we used heavy duyy liquid Nails on the backside to glue styrofoam to laun. We pressed on wall with Floor roller. Let dry one day then we put HD liquid nails on back of 1/8th Georgia Pacific paneling and glued paneling to lauan. dry fit 1st and use very generous amts of liquid nails. Could use 2 tubes per sheet or more. Press with Floor roller. Yes this is a lot of work. Do it once and do it right. Please take the time to see our pictures and descriptions in the HiLotrailer Forum. It is in other topics 1990 Classic HI Lo restoration. Our paneling has vinyl wall paper on the front. We tried regular liquid Nails,contact cement and styrofoam liquid nails and these didn't work. Maybe they didn't work because it was cold outside and we had to use the trailer furnice. Pm me if I can be of any further assistance.
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #13
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window tightening screws

The window screws on the inside trim ring need to be checked every so often and they can somewhat loosen up with road vibration. Also you will have some flex in your repaired walls as you will not be able to use a laminate process that is used when the factory built your Rv. However it will give you a very usable RV.
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:21 PM   #14
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I posted pictures pictures of our restoration on irv2

Can't seem to find the page the pictures are on in the vintage forum. I'm not very good with computers. Do a search on the internet for paneling and the speciality caulk you will need. The caulk costs $8.00 a tube,you pay for what you get and it will give you a superior job. You can do this restoration!!!!
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