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Old 10-14-2010, 06:35 AM   #1
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how do I repair siding on class C

I'm In the midst of a major exterior remodel of my 1982 Midas class C. There is one area on the side where one panel (ribbing?) has slightly lifted from the area below it. The previous owner had caulked the area which makes it more obvious. How to I repair it correctly?
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:55 PM   #2
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What is the siding material?
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:14 AM   #3
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The siding is fiberglass, the seam is even with a window and there is about a 1/2 inch gap. See atached ric and thanks for your help. Kathleen
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:32 PM   #4
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I'm at a loss here, your picture, to me, appears to be aluminum siding instead of fiberglass. I've never seen fiberglass with that ribbed design. If it is actually aluminum siding, assuming there is no hidden damage inside the wall causing this gap, it should be possible to snap it back into place. If you look closely underneath the top panel, do you see a small lip on the lower panel, and corresponding one on the top panel?
If it is fiberglass, it should not overlap the bottom panel at all, it will be butted together and sealed with fiberglass epoxy mix, to make a seamless appearing side panel.
That is the best of my knowledge. You might PM RV Wizard, he will know exactly what you should do to remedy that separation.
Sorry I cannot be more help.
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:23 PM   #5
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Thanks for answering. Yes it is fiberglass and it does butt together rather than overlap or would if it lay flat. There is some kind of adhesive residue under the panel but it looks as if that was added by a previous owner. You mentioned rv wizard, how do I reach this person?
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:40 PM   #6
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Suspect that the unit has wood framing. Would remove the window first to check for type of framing and/or any area damage. Window appears to be buldging slightly outward (or an optical illustion). Maybe able to use a quality construction adhesive to reattach and the possible use of countersunk screws (run down flush and painted). May have to insert a backing plate to assist attachment.
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Old 10-20-2010, 07:09 PM   #7
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looks like the ref. cover has been replaced and over tightened . what i would do is back all the screws off a bit and watch the siding and see if it starts to relax a bit ,that would tell if thats the problem -should take just a min. to do .if that works you just found a quick fix.
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:00 AM   #8
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Possibly damage from the window above the area leaking?
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by decodancer View Post
Thanks for answering. Yes it is fiberglass and it does butt together rather than overlap or would if it lay flat. There is some kind of adhesive residue under the panel but it looks as if that was added by a previous owner. You mentioned rv wizard, how do I reach this person?
I would recommend you pull the window above the problem area and inspect for any water damage. I would also recommend you remove any old sealant that the previous owner may have put into the area from the outside. With the window removed and any rot repaired (if need be) try to release the siding down to the problem are and clean away any excess material, sealant that may prevent the siding from laying flat.
Once you get all the preparation done, it is time to adhere the fiberglass back to the structural frame and or backer. Let us know if there is a backer on top of frame or if the fiberglass just lays straight on to frame and what all the interior wall materials are made of. With this info, we can advise on the type of adhesive to use.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:06 AM   #10
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If all the above fails to work for you, climb under the coach and check the attachment points to the frame. They may be loose allowing that portion of the box to flex up and down popping the siding loose.

The attachment fasteners may simply be lag bolts that have loosened up. You may have to remove them and apply some adhesive (to threads) with a little sawdust to get a tight fit.

If for some reason you can't get the fasteners adjusted, try driving a thin wedge or shim shingle between the box and frame to minimize movement.

What makes me suspicious is that it appears to be an area behind the axle, thats where you have more bounce between the frame and the box.
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