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Old 03-22-2013, 03:06 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich View Post
No I don't think your oil cooler is in the radiator, just the trans.
I still have the in-tank cooler in the radiator for the trans. I added a stacked plate cooler before the radiator to cool the trans fluid before it goes into the radiator cooler. That way the trans fluid is brought to normal operating temp. If the radiator that your talking about covers the whole front of the main radiator then yes that is the A/C condenser. The oil cooler is another stack plate cooler that is about 12"x12" this one sets about 5-6" in front of the A/C coil as does my added trans cooler which is also a stacked plate cooler. Both the stack plate coolers I have look like this.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-52578
And YES the rubber dam above the radiator is very important. I had to replace mine because it was dry rotted.

Well, When i took the radiator off there were two transmisson lines on one side. When I removed it tranny fluid came out . When I removed the lines from the other side of the radiator oil came out.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:19 PM   #30
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The progress made.

I have begun stripping all the cooling system out of the RV. I am going to go through it with a fine tooth comb and look for any looming catatrophe's. Here is a shot of the pullys ,tubes, and brackets that I have media blasted and powder coated; and there's plenty left to do! I plan on putting in a new water pump, new radiator, new belts , hoses, and new oil and tranny lines. Im going to get the AC working since I had to release the charge to get the radiator out. replace all the vacuum lines and put a good tune up on her. I am determined that she will make it trouble free to The Black Hills Sturgis Motorcycle rally next year .
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:46 AM   #31
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New and refurbished parts going back on. WOW what a job. This has been to hard. Or maybe I'm not as limber as I used to be.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:10 AM   #32
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New and refurbished parts going back on. WOW what a job. This has been to hard. Or maybe I'm not as limber as I used to be.

That sure is pretty !!!!
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:20 AM   #33
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Yah it was about an 7-8 hour job to get the radiator out of mine and about 6-7 to put it all back together. It was well worth it.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:17 PM   #34
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That sure is pretty !!!!
Thanks. It's in my nature but not always to my advantage to sweat the details. Blasting and powdercaoting parts can be an involved process. I hate rust or anything that's rust colored!!
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:21 PM   #35
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Btw, I found in the maintenance manual for this vehicle, it should run at 220 deg and have a 190 deg thermostat.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:40 PM   #36
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just did similar cooling system rebuild on my 460 powered class c all looked good but did find that my muffler was overheating turning blue and swelling.
unit never ran hot even towing replaced exhaust from the crossover back.
installed new 3 inch pipe and a 36 inch long magnaflow free-flowing muffler,
is still quiet at idle and you can just barely hear it at speed but the power is way up. it will climb the hills around here with less throttle so should see a bit better fuel mileage.
so i would inspect your exhaust as part of your repairs couldn't hurt
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:04 AM   #37
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just did similar cooling system rebuild on my 460 powered class c all looked good but did find that my muffler was overheating turning blue and swelling.
unit never ran hot even towing replaced exhaust from the crossover back.
installed new 3 inch pipe and a 36 inch long magnaflow free-flowing muffler,
is still quiet at idle and you can just barely hear it at speed but the power is way up. it will climb the hills around here with less throttle so should see a bit better fuel mileage.
so i would inspect your exhaust as part of your repairs couldn't hurt
Never occurred to me to think about the exhaust. Ill check it tho. Thanks for the input.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:54 PM   #38
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Well I tried a little experiment today. Guess I'm a glutton for punishment. I put the factory recommended 195 deg thermo in her today and a 16lb radiator cap per factory spec. It was running about 200-205 with a 160 deg thermo in her and a 13lb cap. My theory was that a 195 might allow the coolant to stay in the radiator a little longer and actually make it run cooler. WRONG! The temp varied wildly with the 160 thermo in her. Would take Long time to come up to 205. And under hard load it would run up to 210-212. With the 195 it was up to 215 before I left the driveway. However the temp swing was less. Seemed to regulate itself at about 220. Running hard I'd see 225. Seemed to run better with the 195 in her. What does everyone think. Cooler is better ? I think it's at the top end if the operating range at 225.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:18 PM   #39
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My son was a tech @ GM proving grounds in Milford MI, Power Train Dept.
You need a full service, flush fluid (not just drain and fill) and new filter, on the tranny. Tranny fluid starts to cook @ 225. Anything higher has done the deed. Service now or re-build tranny later.
You may have misheard him because transmissions typically run in that range. Over heating is in the 280+ range. Heavy stop and go traffic can easily bring up those trans temps due to the heat the torque converter generates. However as many have said, a good trans cooler is a great idea as most older vehicles do not have as good of cooling systems as the newer stuff.
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