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Old 10-04-2013, 08:29 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Victoriarae View Post
Just want paint type for rain ting an older rv.
Well the only practical choice is a single-stage polyurethane. A base coat/coat clear coat would cost much more but wouldn't hold up over the long run. The clear eventually separates.

All the vinyl and decals have to be removed before painting and replaced after.

Anything less than a professionally sprayed on polyurethane wil look hobo.

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Old 10-05-2013, 12:02 AM   #30
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Can you tell us if you are going to do it yourself or have it done?
Are you going to do a "driveway" paint job or have it done by a paint shop indoors? This would all help.
I did mine with semi-gloss high quality (not cheap) house paint and I defy anyone to tell that its a house paint job from 10 feet away. My stripes were done with Rustoleum spray cans in gloss brown and maroon. You can if you're careful and know what you are doing, do the entire trailer with spray cans but use good paint, not Krylon junk. Check youtube as there are a couple of videos on doing them with spray cans.
Mine may last 5 years or it may go 10, I won't care either way as I only have $200 tied up in it.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:48 AM   #31
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What year is this RV in the photo? I would guess the before and after are far different! Thanks.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:12 AM   #32
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1978 Excel the paint was very dull, chalky, faded and thin in some spots. The stripes were a different color. Was washed very aggressively with Tide soap and water, with a brush, areas were rubbed with a scotchbrite pad and soapy water, rinsed twice to make sure soap was gone. TT dried for 2 days while masking of windows was done and then paint was applied (with a brush!). One side was done at a time. Stripes took 1 day each with 2 coats each. The best masking tape was used. Not the cheap stuff. The base color was almost an exact match.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:46 AM   #33
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After reading some of these replies please allow me to offer you some advice from an experienced painter.
1. Proper prep work is just as if not more important than the paint its self.
2. Find a Sherwin Williams automotive store in your area.

You have 3 proper options to do this and wraps for an RV will cost more than yours is worth, FYI.
Option 1 - Enamel auto paint. Requires no clear coat and is commonly referred to as "single stage". It's used to be the standard for cars until the base/clear system replaced it. Now it is typically used on industrial vehicles and equipment. It's a shoot and dry system, has a gloss finish and is simple and cheap. Cost to do your class C should be in the 3-400 dollar range.

Option 2 -Base coat clear coat - You will spray a few coats of color followed by a few coats of clear. More complicated due to multiple stages and mixing of various paint components. Offer longer life and better uv protection than enamel but cost 2-3 times as much in materials and labor.

Option 3 - Roll and tip. Typically this is not something I would recommend but I saw it mentioned as an option and it is viable. The finish results will be more than satisfactory for your older RV and as for durability well, these marine paints survive in some of the harshest environments known including constant intense uv, salt and sand. I am no expert on their application but as a boat guy I can tell you there is a lot of DIY's available on the internet. the drawbacks to this system is the paint is EXPENSIVE.

Hope this provides you with some useful info.
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:06 AM   #34
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Can you clear coat over acrylic enamel?

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Old 10-15-2013, 11:30 PM   #35
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Probably not as most two stage paints come as a "system", a system where the 2 components are compatible with each other. Clear coat will probably lift the enamel.
Find an auto parts store that also sells paint and ask them to be sure.
I still say that with a little prep work a reasonable job can be done with good semi-gloss house paint and keep the cost low for an older RV.
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:11 AM   #36
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airbrushguy is giving you the best advice I have seen.

In what others have described as my misguided
Hot Rod High School youth, I made all my spending money
one summer painting classmates cars in Dad's garage.

I started by painting mine and then another and so on.

Anyway it was a unique learning experience.
Preparation is the base, just like a foundation is a
base for a home. Then a clean environment.

Simple enamel paint will give a great finish and
was the standard for many years.

I used, believe it or not, a simple electric spray gun.
Combined with a slow drying paint reducer, produced
a very smooth high gloss. It was not great for lacquer but enamel was very good. It kept me in cash.

Something the size that we are discussing here
will be a lot of work.

The last time I bought automotive paint it was from NAPA and the cost had gone up to nearly $100.00 a gal. This was 15 or so years ago.

It is a big project, whichever road you take.
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:07 AM   #37
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I'm just curious...

For those of you who are advocating "a good quality house paint", exactly what kind of paint are you suggesting? A latex enamel?

Please specify brand and paint line.

I'm not challenging you, I'm just really curious!

To the OP, another option would be to spray Rustoleum from a spray gun (not from a spray can, but you could do it that way). Then once cured, polish the paint with polishing compound and an electric polisher.

It's a compromise. You'll get decent results (if done right), but the Rustoleum is cheaper than automotive or marine paints. The trade off is your labor. It's a lot of polishing to get it to a nice shine. Lots of YouTube videos on this method.
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:08 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by ronspradley View Post
Can you clear coat over acrylic enamel?

Can you? The short answer is yes. The technical explanation is a bit more difficult. You would have to wetsand the entire enamel paint job with an 800/1000 grit to maintain any possibility of long term adhesion. The only benefit you would get would be some additional UV protection. The real question is, Why would you. If you're going to lay a base of enamel and then clear coat, why not just lay a urethane basecoat and do it properly?Not to mention ungodly amounts of time wetsanding.

As for prices. Enamel can be had for about $60/gallon and you will reduce that down and get about 1.5-1.75 gallons of sprayable product. I think to do my 31 footer I estimated 3 gallons of paint plus reducers. Which would come out to about $280 in just sprayable materials.
Someone also mentioned a clean environment. You would be amazed what you can actually get away with. A tip for doing a driveway paint job is to wet down the ground within 100 ft of your painting area. This prevent most airborne dust (90% or so). Bugs you can't avoid and remember that auto paint is temp sensitive so ideally you will need a nice spring or fall day with low humidity and temps in the mid-70s to low 80s.
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:01 PM   #39
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To follow up on airbrusguys 3rd choice...the BEST finish you can get with roll and tipping yourself will be with a 2 part epoxy yacht paint like Interlux perfection. There are single part enamels which are fine and high gloss initially but the shine does not hold over time like a 2 part. The paint itself will be 2-3 times as much.... the prep work is absolutely 80-90% of the job...labor intensive...but the result will be superb.
Brightside is their best single part enamel and has more abrasion resistance than their standard enamel if you don't want to do the 2 part work. Jamestown Distrubutors has a 4 part video on how to paint with Perfection on line on youtube.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:07 AM   #40
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Paint choices

This thread is sorta like asking a bunch of people "Which is best, a Ford or a Chevrolet" :-) Personally, I agree with Comaraderie about the preparation being 80-90% of the job. No paint will work well or last without doing good prep work. I am currently prepping my 37' Gulf Stream for paint. I bought several quarts of a sealer to spray on the fiberglass skin (after sanding it) in a thin coat to help the paint adhere, and I bought two gallons of straight white Imron catalyzed enamel, and two gallons of straight black Imron. By buying base colors I saved a lot of money, and Imron doesn't require a clearcoat to shine. It is extremely durable and will look great probably until the motor home is too shot to drive. Imron does have some vicious fumes and requires care and a good respirator, and can't be legally used in some of the more radical environmentally regulated areas, so check with the local automotive paint store on that. I have painted Dump trucks and trailers with the stuff, and they looked great for a dozen or more years under gritty dusty conditions, and I have never suffered any adverse effects from the fumes, as I always use a good respirator and ventilation. Outdoors is the best ventilation. I almost forgot to mention...it is also easy to work with, and might even be ok if brushed or rolled on, but I don't know about that for sure. It does flow out nicely and doesn't run easily when sprayed in warm conditions.

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