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Old 04-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #1
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how to remove air pump system

This was briefly discussed some months ago. it's 1991 oshkosh with a Ford 460 with two air pumps and an octopuss of hoses, charcoal canisters, steel brackets and other weird stuff all over the place. I want to clean up the engine compartment.
The pumps are not connected via an engine drive to the alternator.
What is the process of removing all this stuff?
Has anyone already done it. Everything is hard to see on my engine and since this is not a working system I want to get rid of it.
Any pictures or diagrams will help.
I would actually like to know how it was supposed to work when it was new. There are vacuum lines as well as what I guess is air pressure lines some are screwed into the exhauist manifold, there might even be electric there, I just don't know, just want to get it out and shed that weight.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:41 AM   #2
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I took all that crap off my 87, and if it stops raining in the next couple of days, I'll get you some pics. You need to be careful though. I'm pretty sure that 91 needs all that stuff intact to pass inspection. I believe it was a smog requirement from either 88 or 89 on. I did a little research before I removed mine, and was told my 87 just came in under the "smog equipment requirement". So far have not had any issues with inspection. For the record, I didn't notice much of a difference in either performance or mileage. Both went up slightly, but not as much as I would have hoped.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:18 AM   #3
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I took all that crap off my 87, and if it stops raining in the next couple of days, I'll get you some pics. You need to be careful though. I'm pretty sure that 91 needs all that stuff intact to pass inspection. I believe it was a smog requirement from either 88 or 89 on. I did a little research before I removed mine, and was told my 87 just came in under the "smog equipment requirement". So far have not had any issues with inspection. For the record, I didn't notice much of a difference in either performance or mileage. Both went up slightly, but not as much as I would have hoped.
They did away with all auto inspections and emissions inspections over 15 years ago, they said it was non productive since all the new cars came well equipped and the older car are going to junk yards.

Send the pics
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:22 AM   #4
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in texas you have to be 25 years old for them not to sniff tail pipe
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:04 PM   #5
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They did away with all auto inspections and emissions inspections over 15 years ago, they said it was non productive since all the new cars came well equipped and the older car are going to junk yards.

Send the pics
Maybe Va is different. I was told by 3 state inspectors that ALL smog related equipment had to be on the vehicle AND operational IF it was required to be on the vehicle when it was manufactured. For my rig, that was somewhere around 88-90. They told me the smog stuff was not required to be on my engine when it was manufactured, Ford had it on there as a "jump" on the upcoming smog requirements, and I could take it off without any repercussions. And llike I said, so far, no one has looked twice at it.

Here are a few pics of how mine looks now. Basically, I removed both smog pumps (and related fixtures), removed the rails that ran down the passenger side of the intake, cut off the rails that ran between the heads on the rear, and capped off all associated vacuum lines.

I left the pump brackets intact because I'm debating about adding a second alternator. Still on the fence about it, but if I decide not to do it, I'll cut those brackets down so everything will still bolt up, but not be sticking up in the way.





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Old 05-03-2012, 06:53 AM   #6
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Maybe Va is different. I was told by 3 state inspectors that ALL smog related equipment had to be on the vehicle AND operational IF it was required to be on the vehicle when it was manufactured. For my rig, that was somewhere around 88-90. They told me the smog stuff was not required to be on my engine when it was manufactured, Ford had it on there as a "jump" on the upcoming smog requirements, and I could take it off without any repercussions. And llike I said, so far, no one has looked twice at it.

Here are a few pics of how mine looks now. Basically, I removed both smog pumps (and related fixtures), removed the rails that ran down the passenger side of the intake, cut off the rails that ran between the heads on the rear, and capped off all associated vacuum lines.

I left the pump brackets intact because I'm debating about adding a second alternator. Still on the fence about it, but if I decide not to do it, I'll cut those brackets down so everything will still bolt up, but not be sticking up in the way.





Wow you can get right at your motor, all I have is a top cover on the motor bulge and to get at anything is big job.
What did you plug the holes in the exhaust manifold with, I think I see a steel plug
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:06 AM   #7
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Wow you can get right at your motor, all I have is a top cover on the motor bulge and to get at anything is big job.
What did you plug the holes in the exhaust manifold with, I think I see a steel plug
That's right, I forgot you have a class A. That has to be a nightmare to work on, but I thought most of them have some type of "doghouse" similar to the class C. Working on mine is bad enough.

Luckily, I didn't have any sensors, holes, pipes, etc on the exhaust manifolds. I removed them and replaced them with the headers when the passenger side developed a leak. But I'm pretty sure you can get a set of headers with a bung for an O2 sensor if your rig has them. I don't think you would necessarily have to remove the O2 sensors, if you removed the other smog stuff, though. In fact, you probably can't without messing up the computer.

If you're talking about the 2 pipes that were coming out of the rear of the heads, then I just unbolted them from the heads, cut off the fittings that went inside the heads, filled them in with welding rod, and reinstalled them (that's the last pic). I made sure I filled them up as much as possible (without warping them) so they wouldn't leak once reinstalled.

All in all, it really wasn't that bad. I had to remove most of that mess anyway when I pulled the front of the engine down to replace the water pump. So I just took the extra time and removed all the extra garbage associated with the smog stuff. The headers were put on about 3 yrs ago. A friend of mine actually owned this rig before me, and I helped him do a lot of work to it when he had it. So fortunately, I know some of its history.

And so far, I'm happy I did it. I didn't see an increase in mileage, but it definetly feels like the engine runs better, and has a little more "umph" in it.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:20 PM   #8
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That's right, I forgot you have a class A. That has to be a nightmare to work on, but I thought most of them have some type of "doghouse" similar to the class C. Working on mine is bad enough.

Luckily, I didn't have any sensors, holes, pipes, etc on the exhaust manifolds. I removed them and replaced them with the headers when the passenger side developed a leak. But I'm pretty sure you can get a set of headers with a bung for an O2 sensor if your rig has them. I don't think you would necessarily have to remove the O2 sensors, if you removed the other smog stuff, though. In fact, you probably can't without messing up the computer.

If you're talking about the 2 pipes that were coming out of the rear of the heads, then I just unbolted them from the heads, cut off the fittings that went inside the heads, filled them in with welding rod, and reinstalled them (that's the last pic). I made sure I filled them up as much as possible (without warping them) so they wouldn't leak once reinstalled.

All in all, it really wasn't that bad. I had to remove most of that mess anyway when I pulled the front of the engine down to replace the water pump. So I just took the extra time and removed all the extra garbage associated with the smog stuff. The headers were put on about 3 yrs ago. A friend of mine actually owned this rig before me, and I helped him do a lot of work to it when he had it. So fortunately, I know some of its history.

And so far, I'm happy I did it. I didn't see an increase in mileage, but it definetly feels like the engine runs better, and has a little more "umph" in it.
I am pretty sure there is no computer on mine, it has a 4 barrel holley type carb. so no O2 sensor. it's hard to tell but it looks lke there is 4 pipes screwed into the exhaust manifold on each side. To remove and install the alternator I had to remove a heavy steel bracket that held two of those charcoal canisters, the bracket and canisters were very heavy and they are all part of that emission thing. from what I understand it was supposed to lesson emissions by pumping fresh air into the manifold.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:11 PM   #9
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I am pretty sure there is no computer on mine, it has a 4 barrel holley type carb. so no O2 sensor. it's hard to tell but it looks lke there is 4 pipes screwed into the exhaust manifold on each side. To remove and install the alternator I had to remove a heavy steel bracket that held two of those charcoal canisters, the bracket and canisters were very heavy and they are all part of that emission thing. from what I understand it was supposed to lesson emissions by pumping fresh air into the manifold.
There's no "computer", but it does have an engine control module.

You're right about the tubes. I forgot about those. If I remember right, there was one on each cylinder, on the top rear of each manifold port ? If I remember right, it's called an "air rail". When we put the headers on, we took them off and capped the hoses from the pumps and crossover tube. We were worried it wouldn't pass inspection, so we kept it intact as much as possible in case we had to pull and drill the headers to re-install the air rails. But after finding out I didn't need the emission stuff, that sealed the fate of the pumps, canisters, and other rails, and it was all removed when I did the water pump.

I do not know if you could either put some type of bolt in the manifold to seal thes holes if you remove the rails, or just cap of the manifold at the top of the rail system if you removed the pumps. I can't remember how mine was setup.

Just get a set of headers and eliminate ALL that mess !!!
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:57 AM   #10
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There's no "computer", but it does have an engine control module.

You're right about the tubes. I forgot about those. If I remember right, there was one on each cylinder, on the top rear of each manifold port ? If I remember right, it's called an "air rail". When we put the headers on, we took them off and capped the hoses from the pumps and crossover tube. We were worried it wouldn't pass inspection, so we kept it intact as much as possible in case we had to pull and drill the headers to re-install the air rails. But after finding out I didn't need the emission stuff, that sealed the fate of the pumps, canisters, and other rails, and it was all removed when I did the water pump.

I do not know if you could either put some type of bolt in the manifold to seal thes holes if you remove the rails, or just cap of the manifold at the top of the rail system if you removed the pumps. I can't remember how mine was setup.

Just get a set of headers and eliminate ALL that mess !!!
What does the engine control module look like? Where might it be located?
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #11
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What does the engine control module look like? Where might it be located?
It looks like this:


Mine is located under the hood, on the driver's fenderwell. Most of them I have seen on the vans are either on the fenderwell, or the firewall. Where it ended up on the Class A is anybody's guess, but it should be close to the engine.

Do yourself a favor and buy one or two of these to keep on the rig. They are notorious for going bad, and will leave you stranded one day. They're only $25-$35.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:05 PM   #12
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It looks like this:


Mine is located under the hood, on the driver's fenderwell. Most of them I have seen on the vans are either on the fenderwell, or the firewall. Where it ended up on the Class A is anybody's guess, but it should be close to the engine.

Do yourself a favor and buy one or two of these to keep on the rig. They are notorious for going bad, and will leave you stranded one day. They're only $25-$35.
Thanks for the pic, I will look tomorrow and let you know what I find. We just got our new vanity today and will mock it up tomorrow, gotta make a few mods to the back frame to fit around plumbing and electric,man oh man it looks great
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:26 AM   #13
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That module is basically an electronic ignition system. Replaced the points and condensor.
In AZ where I live my MH has to be smog tested.

I was in charge of emissions compliance for the City Of Phoenix fleet vehicles for about 1 1.2 years. What a headache!

Just to put this out there it is a federal affense to removed any factory installed smog system. Some local governments may have other rules for their local testing but it does not change the federal statue.
I do realize many have removed the systems and gutted the convertors, but it could be very expensive to reinstall the system if things changed.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:37 AM   #14
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Been there done this and simple. Being a 91 in an oshkosh it is just a bit newer then one of our fleet. We have the same setup in an 89. Keys to remember if emission controls are tested in your area then it "needs" to be there. However we did away with the air tubes when we did the headers the pumps are no longer hooked up and both seized by now but we are still legal and pass all tests ever preformed on the unit. However the crossover tube on the back of the heads really shouldn't be removed as it works to balance the crank case pressures between the heads. The charcoal cans and vacume lines go un touched. To be entirely honest if the system is still working don't mess with it. If you happen to loose a pump. Simple remove them from the belt drive system but leave them installed and plug the bungs in the manifold. DOT and smog cops have tons of power to pull plates. Here in ontario as the unit is post 87 it requires testing and inspection biannually of the rest of its life. If you were to bring one here with everything bypassed and removed they can pull the plates.
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