HWH Leveling System

[Dave78Chief]

Operating manuals are here: HWH after-market leveling systems
Which version you need depends on style of jacks you have. If I recall you have a gasser which would not use Air Dump. Not sure about all the operating details in your older copy of the manual but the current versions are fairly clear about how to operate the system

Main HWH documenation page is here: HWH Customer Service They tend to break things up by each component so you have to determine what set of components you have.

Dave

PS: You do relaize that the your 2nd picture is for the chassis/house battery disconnect solinoids (the 2 black ones) and the Aux start relay (silver one above the black ones)?

[jmerritt]

No pressure switch involved in the running of the pump. The reasons the pump won't run are; 1 - no 12v power at the large 12v lug of the relay/solenoid, 2 - no ground to the relay/solenoid control connection, 3 - no ground to the pump motor, 4 - no 12v at the relay/solenoid control connection when the control is moved to extend, and 5 - a bad relay/solenoid. You can eliminate the relay/solenoid very easily by connecting a good 12v power source to the pump motor directly and see if it runs, assuming that the ground is good at the pump motor. I know the feeling about trying to "herd the cats" when working on these MHs!

John

[Bilito]

Originally Posted by Dave78Chief

Operating manuals are here: HWH after-market leveling systems
Which version you need depends on style of jacks you have. If I recall you have a gasser which would not use Air Dump. Not sure about all the operating details in your older copy of the manual but the current versions are fairly clear about how to operate the system

Main HWH documenation page is here: HWH Customer Service They tend to break things up by each component so you have to determine what set of components you have.

Dave

PS: You do relaize that the your 2nd picture is for the chassis/house battery disconnect solinoids (the 2 black ones) and the Aux start relay (silver one above the black ones)?

I do know that, the solonoid on the left feeds the solonoid on the pump

[Bilito]

Originally Posted by Dave78Chief

Operating manuals are here: HWH after-market leveling systems
Which version you need depends on style of jacks you have. If I recall you have a gasser which would not use Air Dump. Not sure about all the operating details in your older copy of the manual but the current versions are fairly clear about how to operate the system

Main HWH documenation page is here: HWH Customer Service They tend to break things up by each component so you have to determine what set of components you have.

Dave

PS: You do relaize that the your 2nd picture is for the chassis/house battery disconnect solinoids (the 2 black ones) and the Aux start relay (silver one above the black ones)?

In studying the schematic, I see there is a wire going from the pump solonoid to ground, I just got in there with a bright light and son of a gun there is another small stud on that solonoid, but it has no wire connected to it. could that be the solonoid ground??>???i

[Bilito]

Originally Posted by Bilito

In studying the schematic, I see there is a wire going from the pump solonoid to ground, I just got in there with a bright light and son of a gun there is another small stud on that solonoid, but it has no wire connected to it. could that be the solonoid ground??>???i

here is a picture of that solonoid

[jmerritt]

That is definitely a problem. Needs a ground for the control of that solenoid to work. Run yourself some number 12 wire between that and a good ground stud and you will be getting closer to solving this problem, assuming the pump and solenoid are good.

John

[Bilito]

Originally Posted by jmerritt

That is definitely a problem. Needs a ground for the control of that solenoid to work. Run yourself some number 12 wire between that and a good ground stud and you will be getting closer to solving this problem, assuming the pump and solenoid are good.

John

You think that is the ground post then?
I'll report my finding tomorrow after a visit to the sawbones, getting old sucks, but it's much better then the alternative


Funny but as I play around with all the stuff on this RV I am getting everything to work.

This silver eagle must have been a top of the line unit back in it's day
It has these things that must be options

A hydraulic leveling system
Drivers door
Power window in driver door
Dual trumpet horns on the roof
A remote control spotlight/floodlight on the roof
Dual ac units, this is a 28 footer and every 28 footer I have seen only has one
Power mirrors
A bathtub
power steps
A large refrigerator
6600KW gen set
awnings on all windows plus the main awning
oversize fuel tank, 90 gal
luggage rack on rear roof
Cruise control
remote battery disconnect system

and perhaps more I don't know about yet

We looked at a lot of RV's around this year and length and they did not have this much stuff

[Dave78Chief]

Yep, one small post must be grounded. Schematic says blue wire supplies 12VDC turn on power to the relay coil. Other small post goes to ground.
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr352000.pdf
Looks like there is a micro switch in the 4 lever controller that is used to turn the relay ON and OFF (therefore turning the pump ON) when you move the levers.

BTW - Do you have the kickup jack or straight jack model? Helps when you can reference the pages in the same manual when talking like this.

Dave

[Bilito]

Originally Posted by Dave78Chief

Yep, one small post must be grounded. Schematic says blue wire supplies 12VDC turn on power to the relay coil. Other small post goes to ground.
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr352000.pdf
Looks like there is a micro switch in the 4 lever controller that is used to turn the relay ON and OFF (therefore turning the pump ON) when you move the levers.

BTW - Do you have the kickup jack or straight jack model? Helps when you can reference the pages in the same manual when talking like this.

Dave

I grounded the solonoid and then jumpered across the poles, got some minor sparks but nothing worked. Got a big jumper cable and jumpered the two big lugs and the motor ran, it ran pretty good and not too loud. The solonoid is either stuck or shot. Can I use any solonoid or is this one specific to the pump?

The legs are the fold back type with a spring on eithetr side, they measure 13 7/8 long retracted. I only have one that does not have broken springs.

[jmerritt]

You need a 100 amp continuous duty solenoid. I replaced mine with solenoids from NAPA that weren't continuous and they lasted one season. Replaced them with continuous duty that I got from Grainger and they have been good. Too much amperage drawn across those solenoids for anything less than 100 amp continuous duty.

john

[Bilito]

Originally Posted by jmerritt

You need a 100 amp continuous duty solenoid. I replaced mine with solenoids from NAPA that weren't continuous and they lasted one season. Replaced them with continuous duty that I got from Grainger and they have been good. Too much amperage drawn across those solenoids for anything less than 100 amp continuous duty.

john

I removed the solonoid and bench tested it with a battery, it is Kaput
BTW the ground is the base plate, not that extra small lug
I have new solonoid for the starter (not yet installed) and I did the same test and it happily clicks away
So I connected just the little blue wire to the new solonoid and ran a jumper to ground,. turned the ignition key on, made sure I was in park, turned on the level switch, one of the little white lights came on and I moved the lever on the one jack with good spings to extend and there was no click of the solonoid, just to be sure I tried all four levers, no click
Power is not getting from the control panel to the solonoid, now where do I look
At least at this point we have removed the solonoid from the problem and we know the pump motor runs.

When I turn the level (power) switch on, I hear a click somewhere in front of me and under the dash

[EngineerMike]

Sounds like there are one or more issues w/the control.
No 12V to the pump could be a safety in the system not safed, or could be fuse or could be other part open when should be closed.

IIWMI'd map out the rest of the system, so you know what you are dealing with. I suspect you have one each solenoid-valves per leveler leg. Per picture you have a pressure line from pump, and return line to the reservoir. Sol-valves might be at the jacks or in line along the way; might be a manifold that has the valves on it (my guess). Follow the pressure line & see what you find; has to be either a junction collecting lines from jacks (in which case sol-valves likely at jacks) or manifold (in which case probably sol-valves plugged into manifold).

HWH jacks I'm familiar with are power-down/spring-lift, so sol-valve has to open for that jack when pump runs (other jacks not powering at same time) to extend, and open w/out pump running to retract w/springs. I.e. two things have to operate for a jack to extend: pump + sol-valve, 1 thing for retract: sol-valve open while spring pressure is only force on system. Sol-valves on old HWH's are one or two wire gizzies; 1-wire is +12v, 2-wire is + on one, - on other, so 1-wire uses valve body for ground. Truly ancient valves are hexagonal and have a large transistor body on side of valve; these are replaced by more recent design and IIRC you add the ground wire when replacing the ancient 1-wire's.

You can also start at the jacks & trace both control wiring if present & hydraulic line back to whatever junctions then to controls to better describe the system for further diagnosis. Starting w/a good map will make the process way easier.
One other thing- check the dipstick on the reservoir to make sure the tank is full if you haven't.