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Old 09-21-2012, 05:55 PM   #1
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HWH Lever Controlled leveling System

Hi again,

Working on my 1991 Silver Eagle with an HWH 110 4 lever leveling system, looking for diagrams or better yet pictures of the interior if the control valve box.

Mine is not getting power to the pump solonoid, the solonoid is good and I can jump it to run the pump. I turn the rocker switch on and one or two leveling lights illuminate so I know the control box is getting power. I suspected the micro switch was bad so I took the levers assembly off to check the switch and waddayaknow, the switch is ok. So I am trying to figure out how the switch is activated and have hit a dead end, nothing seems to push against the switch nipple to work it.

So I carefully read my manual a few times and the only adjustement is to the micro switch. Here is what it says "The micro switch will need adjustment if the activating rod does fall directly on the nipple of the switch".
What? says I, the activating rod appears to be on the wrong side of the unit, but the faint and not clear diagram I have sorta shows it where it is. [There was a hold down screw missing under the micro switch bracket to boot]
I suspect that the PO has had a hand in trying to get this system working and has rendered the control box FUBAR


in the picture you can see the activating rod across the top of the lever, the switch is between the first and second lever from the left with the nipple pointing down, you can also see three of the mounting screws, The missing one is under the switch and impossible to get at..

Please help me to sort this out
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:13 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Hi again,

Working on my 1991 Silver Eagle with an HWH 110 4 lever leveling system, looking for diagrams or better yet pictures of the interior if the control valve box.

Mine is not getting power to the pump solonoid, the solonoid is good and I can jump it to run the pump. I turn the rocker switch on and one or two leveling lights illuminate so I know the control box is getting power. I suspected the micro switch was bad so I took the levers assembly off to check the switch and waddayaknow, the switch is ok. So I am trying to figure out how the switch is activated and have hit a dead end, nothing seems to push against the switch nipple to work it.

So I carefully read my manual a few times and the only adjustement is to the micro switch. Here is what it says "The micro switch will need adjustment if the activating rod does fall directly on the nipple of the switch".
What? says I, the activating rod appears to be on the wrong side of the unit, but the faint and not clear diagram I have sorta shows it where it is. [There was a hold down screw missing under the micro switch bracket to boot]
I suspect that the PO has had a hand in trying to get this system working and has rendered the control box FUBAR


in the picture you can see the activating rod across the top of the lever, the switch is between the first and second lever from the left with the nipple pointing down, you can also see three of the mounting screws, The missing one is under the switch and impossible to get at..

Please help me to sort this out
I think I might have answered my own questions. I found some HWH lessons on the web with very large and clear diagrams. From what I see I think the micro switch was installed unside down and the control bar is backwards and on the wrong side of the control levers. Could I be right, Any comments
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:21 PM   #3
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Well, that was a favorite saying from my Mom. When I got something screwed up she always told me" You have it upside down and backwards". Thanks for the memory.

From what I remember of the inside of the unit, yours looks like that may be the problem. Looks like someone beat you to it and messed up.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Bob
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:00 PM   #4
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Well, that was a favorite saying from my Mom. When I got something screwed up she always told me" You have it upside down and backwards". Thanks for the memory.

From what I remember of the inside of the unit, yours looks like that may be the problem. Looks like someone beat you to it and messed up.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Bob
The switch was upside down and backwards and the activating rod was on the wrong side of the levers, a spacer was missing and the nut that holds the fuse holder was missing and we now have it all back together and have power when you move any lever to extend to the pump solenoid lead and then it rained all day and that's all we got done. I did go to radio shack and bought a new fuse holder, the panel looks brand new now.

if no rain tomorrow I will hook everything up see what works and what leaks or don't work.
PS the micro switch is always on and that spring loaded activating rod turns the switch off. The rod keeps it off when the levers are moved from stow to neutral. Any movement to extend from any lever lifts the rod off the microswitch and activates the pump
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by bobwalter View Post
Well, that was a favorite saying from my Mom. When I got something screwed up she always told me" You have it upside down and backwards". Thanks for the memory.

From what I remember of the inside of the unit, yours looks like that may be the problem. Looks like someone beat you to it and messed up.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Bob
I decided to move the pump solonoid from that flimsy strap around the motor to a solid spot on the frame next to the pump motor. That was really some hard stuff to drill two holes in but it is done and the solonoid is firmly mounted.
I have not connected the battery wire to the battry yet, but I have tested the connections by activating the unit and moving each lever in turn to activate and I can hear the solonoid clicking each time.
NOW, What is the worst that can happen when I fire up the pump???
I know just running the pump pressurizes the line from the pump to the control valve.

Any suggestions how I should proceed before I blindly just go at it?????
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:13 AM   #6
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Sounds like you have everything covered. Make sure that the connections are the same as before you moved it. If so, Go for it!.

Bob
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:30 PM   #7
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Sounds like you have everything covered. Make sure that the connections are the same as before you moved it. If so, Go for it!.

Bob
Well I went for it and it works, I was a little startled when the first jack hit the ground and moved the RV,

All the jack springs are shot, most are rusted and broken but the one jack with both springs intact went down and came back up.

Any suggestion where I can get a good price on new springs, saw some on ebay for 35.00 a pair. I pretty sure I have the 9000 lb jacks
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:40 AM   #8
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Well I went for it and it works, I was a little startled when the first jack hit the ground and moved the RV,

All the jack springs are shot, most are rusted and broken but the one jack with both springs intact went down and came back up.

Any suggestion where I can get a good price on new springs, saw some on ebay for 35.00 a pair. I pretty sure I have the 9000 lb jacks
I found I need the HWH R1171 Spring kit and will order them.
These seem to be difficult springs to install as the top part does not have a bracket to hook the springs into, The two springs are connected together by a small bar that lays across the top of the leveler.
What is the trick to installing these springs?
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