Community Forums

jMEbluIS · 07-24-2013, 08:08 PM

Very good point! The guy seems pretty open in talking about what work he has done. I will get as much info as possible on the roof. I will also look for further evidence of water intrusion.

I've also investigated title /registration /insurance costs and they are very modest. So, I just need an in depth check in person to make an informed (as possible for this newb) decision. Ready for Sunday to be here!

GerryKiernan · 07-25-2013, 07:50 AM

At $1800 you can expect to be doing some work, and replacing some parts. If the basic rig is sound that is not a big issue. Check the ceiling for water stains and poke around to look for spongy areas. Look on top of the roof to see if there are a lot of patched ares, or if it is basically one nice clean continuous surface. If there is propane on board try all the appliances out, particularly the fridge, as they are rather pricey to repair/replace. Check all the brakes and tires for condition. Start it up and drive it around the yard to see how it sounds, and how it runs. At 18 feet long it will basically handle and drive like a full size pickup truck, although it probably has dually rear wheels, and there is a tendency to run over curbs on corners because it is wider than a normal truck. Getting it ready for winter mainly means draining all the water from tanks and fittings, and blowing out water lines with a small compressor. Anything like toilet bowls and sink traps can have some rv antifreeze added to them to keep them from freezing up.
At 63000 miles it probably has a quite a few good miles left in it yet. Dodge 360 engines were very strong, with a lot of low end torque, but rather thirsty. Figure on around 10 miles to the gallon, or less.
If you decide to buy it don't hesitate to make an offer. If it has been parked for several years the owner may be quite happy to see it go for somewhat less than he is asking.

Good luck, have fun, and post some pictures of it.

Gerry

MattC · 07-25-2013, 07:42 PM

Jembluis,

As the owner of a classic coach let me start be reiterating what other have said. If there any evidence of water damage, leave it be.

Other than that,
If it is rubber - replace it
If it is fluid - flush it and refill it.

In the first line, all the fuel lines are shot and will have to be replaced with Cr*pahol tolerant lines ($$), this often includes the fuel fill hoses. The rubber brake lines have aged out as well as all the rubber parts in the cylinders and calipers. The coolant hoses, a mile of little vacuum hoses and belts come in here to as well as a bunch of suspension bushings. Cost of all these parts? Probably 200$ and about 2 weeks of evenings and weekends. Dropping the fuel tanks is the biggest pain. You will learn to pull drive axles - too.

As you are going to go through the brakes, when you get all the new parts in, just run enough extra brake fluid through so it gets clear. The coolant flush is usually pretty simple. Dump what is there, fill with clear water and run it until it is hot and dump that the refill with proper coolant.

If you venture this path, get any and all service books you can find. The wheel bearings will be easy to repack while you are doing the brake work.

Good Luck

Matt

jMEbluIS · 07-26-2013, 08:32 PM

OK, guys I have been paying attention to your responses, researching, lurking, subscribing to 70's RV threads Minnie Winnie and other.

Bruce C and Excell, I will definitely check the tires. Anything ending in only 3 numbers is a no go. I will look at all six tires and I understand that 16.5" truck tires run $200 and up. How old is too old, or should I base more on wear? I've seen suggestions that tires should be replaced after 5-7 years.

Bruce C, Gary - k7gld and GerryKiernan, I will make sure that the new roof is weather tight. I will ask the guy why he replaced the old roof, and what damage he could see when it was open. I know he replaced the a/c, fingers crossed that the water damage was around the old unit. I will also look for water stains and poke around for soft spots, especially around the top bunk and it's windows. That seems to be a trouble spot even into the newer Winnies.

Matt C, I'm thinking that restoration will happen a little at a time. Are you suggesting that all these things need to happen right now?

All, my mom has suggested to me that old engines need leaded gas. Is this so? Or, is this why Matt C is saying replace all old rubber lines?

I printed out a MH shopping checklist created by Mark Sobyak, I'll try to hit on as much as possible (ha, and cross out a lot of things that weren't available in 1975!) I have asked the owner to start up the fridge ahead of time, he said it takes a while to get cold. I'll definitely have him show me that all gas related items work. I'm happy to play around with a lot of stuff in the MH, but I'm a little twitchy with gas.

I'm attaching some pics of Winston.

Thanks again for all of the input!!!

jMEbluIS · 07-26-2013, 08:43 PM

GerryKiernan, you think 10mpg might be possible? I have scouted some posts about mpg and I was thinking 8mpg was going to be tops. (I do know that a good tune up is key to max mpg ;op)

Anyone out there have some numbers specific to a 1970's Dodge MB-300 360 V8 MH? Some of the rigs I was seeing people give numbers for were a LOT bigger!

I know 2mpg isn't a giant difference over 8mpg, but it's a 25% improvement.

Chowboy · 07-26-2013, 08:45 PM

Drives great and AC works. No leaks, it starts and runs, what a deal! Offer $300 less take the counter offer, replace the tires, change the oil and all hoses and fluids. Who cares if the engine is happy without lead? A replacement is probably around $2500 installed and it will take a lot of abuse before the existing engine is trashed. BTW I used to use about 1 pint of diesel to a tank to keep my 318 from knocking. If you pass let me know.

BFlinn181 · 07-26-2013, 08:49 PM

Unleaded fuel shouldn't be an issue, vehicles after 1971 usually had hardened valve seats. Unleaded is actually good for most engines, it doesn't form deposits around the valve stems. How about batteries? Check to see how old and if they have been maintained. Sitting for a few years isn't the best thing for battery life. If you don't see or smell mold or mildew, a running RV for $1800 is a pretty great deal. You will spend money maintaining it, they all need attention. Don't buy it as in investment, they never are, but you will be able to create memories for you, your family and friends.

garyswann · 07-26-2013, 09:06 PM

Looks pretty clean. The good thing about an inexpensive coach is that if you want to change anything or everything just rip it out and make it how you want.
Go for it!

jMEbluIS · 07-26-2013, 11:39 PM

BFlinn181 I'm definitely not thinking of it as an investment. My uncle (hem, "finacnial advisor") has already informed me of this. I have a ton of fond memories of RVing with my grandparents and mom as a kid and want to make more with this generation.

Garyswann, I'm definitely going to have fun with the remodel. I don't feel like it has to be restored to original, just what works and is fun.

Chowboy, I'm in MA. At this age of vehicle I think all I need is working lights, brakes and safety equipment.

GerryKiernan · 07-27-2013, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jMEbluIS

GerryKiernan, you think 10mpg might be possible? I have scouted some posts about mpg and I was thinking 8mpg was going to be tops. (I do know that a good tune up is key to max mpg ;op)

Anyone out there have some numbers specific to a 1970's Dodge MB-300 360 V8 MH? Some of the rigs I was seeing people give numbers for were a LOT bigger!

I know 2mpg isn't a giant difference over 8mpg, but it's a 25% improvement.

Hi: I was basing my guestimate on the 1980 Dodge W200 3/4 ton 4x4 club cab I used to own. It was a 360 with a manual transmission, and would average 11 to 11-1/2 miles per gallon. It didn't seem to make very much difference if I had the 9-1/2 foot camper on or off. [about 1/2 MPG] Of course, that was per Imperial gallon, which is 4.4 liters of fuel as opposed to an American gallon which is 3.8 liters. So, 10 GPM might be a bit high. I just worked it out on my calculator, and it looks like 10 GPM is possible. My truck and camper weighed in at over 9000 pounds, which should be pretty close to a 20 foot motorhome. However, that is just a ballpark figure. My 1979 Vanguard 20 foot motorhome, with a 350 Chevvy gets about 9-1/2 GPM per Imperial gallon.
In other words, it is going to be pretty thirsty.

Gerry

GerryKiernan · 07-27-2013, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jMEbluIS

BFlinn181 I'm definitely not thinking of it as an investment. My uncle (hem, "finacnial advisor") has already informed me of this. I have a ton of fond memories of RVing with my grandparents and mom as a kid and want to make more with this generation.

Garyswann, I'm definitely going to have fun with the remodel. I don't feel like it has to be restored to original, just what works and is fun.

Chowboy, I'm in MA. At this age of vehicle I think all I need is working lights, brakes and safety equipment.

I am glad to hear that you are not thinking of this as an investment. Any rv that you buy, unless purchased at a ridiculously low price, and flipped, is going to cost you more than you will get back. The investment is in fun and adventure.

Gerry

PS: There can be a lot of fun in the fixing up too.

jMEbluIS · 07-28-2013, 04:30 PM

Winston will not be coming home with me. I appreciate all the good advice that helped me make a smart decision.

Some highlights for the curious:
"The plumbing all works great"... except the potable water tank leaks, so the owner doesn't use it.
"The furnace works great"... except it needs a new fan.
"That gas smell is nothing to worry about, the engine hasn't been run much in years."
"The tires will pass inspection." The tires were worn enough that I had trouble reading the DOT label, but I could see that the code ended in only 3 numbers. I couldn't recall exactly when the code switched to wwyy, but it was a long time ago.
And the biggest issue, the roof. To this guy "I replaced the roof" meant he added some self adhesive plastic sheets over the existing, leaky roof. There was lots of water damage in all the upper cabinets where you guys said to look.... with fresh paint on the spongy ply, wah wah wah.

So, it will be a while yet before I have an RV. Some day though!

Bruce C · 07-29-2013, 02:29 AM

A good call on your part. It would have been a money pit and would have gone on and on. Keep looking, your already wiser and have a better idea of what to look for. Good luck and let us know how things go.

GerryKiernan · 07-29-2013, 08:14 AM

I think you have made the right decision. Too bad, as it looks pretty good in the pictures. I have experienced that before. I recently bought a 1981 Triple E about 25 feet long. I had been looking at quite few ads and checking out rigs prior to that, and the ones that looked decent in the pictures turned out to be pretty disappointing in the flesh. You are much wiser and knowledgeable about old motorhomes now, and I am sure you will find another true love. They are out there.

Gerry