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Old 06-29-2010, 09:05 PM   #15
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The 413-1, 413-2, 413-3 were all gear driven camshaft by the way. They are a bit noisy but they live a long time. Had 4 of the 413-3 Dodge single axle dump trucks, 4 GMC's w/350 and 6 International 345 V8's within the fleet to maintain. Drivers always stated that the Dodge dumps would out perform the other on equal pull. Much less engine repairs on the Dodge V8's also. Dodge cabs of that era were terrible though.
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:12 PM   #16
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I have a few vehicles that still have points ('51 Chevy 4400, this RV, old farm equipment, etc.) but I have a tool that I don't think you can even buy anymore, a dwell meter. Makes the job alot easier. Like you said, easy to trouble shoot and shouldn't give any problems unless I start racing with it. Just a little more maintenance and parts are cheap.
We are on a budget also, so thing have to remain simple for now
I still have one of those! And can use it!

You should have seen the looks on everyones faces when the '63 dual point Vette showed up at the dealership I was working in. This was 2006 or so. I said sure I'll fix it, whipped out the dwell meter, cleaned up the points, set the dwell, cleaned and set the plugs, tuned the carburetor and sent it down the road.

The 33 year old knew how and had the tools to fix what the other guys wouldn't touch.
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:40 PM   #17
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I have a few vehicles that still have points ('51 Chevy 4400, this RV, old farm equipment, etc.) but I have a tool that I don't think you can even buy anymore, a dwell meter. Makes the job alot easier. Like you said, easy to trouble shoot and shouldn't give any problems unless I start racing with it. Just a little more maintenance and parts are cheap.
We are on a budget also, so thing have to remain simple for now
LOL, I still have 2 dwell meters from the old days.
J
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Old 07-17-2010, 05:16 PM   #18
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If the brake system is already dry and that old I would plan on replacing all of the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder at least. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and these parts could be pitted internally. I would also replace the rubber lines if it was me. Take a close look at all the metal lines especially where they are secured with a clamp as this is a likely spot for corrosion.
Definitely would make for a bad day if you have to pull drums out on the road.
The 413 is a great engine for an old coach.
You have alot of work ahead of you but if you tackle it at home it is much less stressful. I made my first few trips close to home to get a feel for my old coach and to make it easier to fix anything if needed.

I made a list after I inspected the coach and prioritized them so safety items got attention first, then things needed to make the coach usable, etc.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:30 PM   #19
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In my coach the bag with DAMON on it is in the front most compartment over the couch. I know.. I put it there not 2 hours ago as I've been using something that is stored in the bag (The override cable for the awning) while doing some modifications.

All done now. So I just put the bag back.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:10 PM   #20
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My neighbour has a 24' Winnie with a Chrysler 413 and it runs real well and for its size it gives him what he calls 'adequate' mileage. It will haul the MH and his boat trailer up area mountain roads at the posted or better so he is very happy with it.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:07 PM   #21
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Personally I would rather have the 413 than the 440. Less trouble , more power, ask the drag racers. But I would convert it to elec ing, makes a big difference in response.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:37 PM   #22
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Hmm thanks for the heads up on this classic model of motor, I'd been pondering what motor I would use for a swap when the 360 finally died. I was currently going back and forth between the old Ford 390 Camper Special V8 (If I can make it mate up to a dodge transmission) or one of the old 400/440 blocks. You just through in a tasty 4th option.
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Old 07-30-2010, 06:42 AM   #23
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Hey Red Neck,
Here is a chart I found while doing some research on this 413. Chech out the differences in hp & torque.
Engine Specs & Comparison Chart
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Old 07-30-2010, 06:47 AM   #24
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Thanks for all the input everyone!

From what I have been seeing, I'm real happy this thing has a 413 instead of the 440. I talked to a racing buddy of mine and he told me alot of the same things. In fact he offer quite a substantial amount for the motor but I declined.
As far as the carburator goes, this one has a Holley on it and not some Dodge version of a quadrajet. I already have the rebuild kit for it and hopefully will get some time to work on it soon.
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:16 PM   #25
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Hmmm definitely looks like a 71-72 413-1 would be the best way to go. The HP/Torque drops way off after that point, almost to the point that they're producing nothing better than the 71 361 was.

The old Carter ThermoQuad is the Dodge carburetor you're thinking of of notable horridness. My current 360 uses a Holley TBI, which is basically a 2 barrel electronically fired carb from the looks of its design. Still have the rotor and plugs style ignition, just an electronic advance vs a vacuum advance.

Personally, if I get one, I'll probably drop a nice Eddie on there. I've had too much trouble getting the Holley's to tune right.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:29 AM   #26
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When I found this packet in the motorhome, it also had the original equipment list and I do have the 413-1. Believe me, I am really happy for that due to having a 24' pontoon boat (with steel toons and heavy ) that I will be towing with this. It's kind of ironic.
When I contacted Holley to find the model on the carb, they told me it is a model 4160 / 600 cfm that was used specifically for the 1972 dodge M-400 chassis. Everything else I have has Eddie's on them, and thanks for reminding me that Holley's are hard to fine tune. I know that they are great carbs, but that is only after they get tuned right.
I can see what will happen already. I will fight with the Holley, never get it just right, get fed up with it not running right, and finally put an Eddie on it. I guess I just like to torture myself.
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:19 PM   #27
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When I first pulled it out of the weeds I checked all the fluids, put some gas to it, and the thing started! So, I know it will run with the current ignition system. Sometimes, I think the older systems are more reliable, sure, more maintenance with the points, resisters, etc. but I don't think we'll change it due to cost also. Maybe later down the line, but for now, we are looking at all the crucial items (brakes, trans, seals, etc). I'll have plenty of time to price them though.
My Apollo does have a small exhaust leak when it first starts, but once it's warm it goes away. I know that it will only do this for a little while before it gets worse so it is on the to-do list. So, it soulds like exhaust leaks are common on these old chysler motors? But, something that looks this cool should also sound good, so I like the header/new exhaust idea better.
I look forward to any more input.
Thanks, Dave
Yes a good set of headers is a good investment. I like the Thorley long tube headers fore improving torque. When you are building a TOURQE motor it is different than a “race” engine.
http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/products/sfID1/9
You might also check out Summit Racing. They have a great search engine that lets you search by engine.
http://www.summitracing.com
Good luck in your project.
Bill
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