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Old 10-30-2012, 09:06 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
I traced the black wire coming off the + post and going under the RV back to the Generator start solonoid, but at that solonoid there was another heavy battery wire also attached to the same post. Don't know where that goes tho.
While I was there I saw a small broken corroded wire from a bundle of 4 wires and another that was unplugged from what appears to be a tube of some sort
pic 1 of the gen solenoid connection
pic 2 is the wire bundle plug
pic 3 is the broken wire
Pic 4 is the tube thing, the bottom plug was unplugged, I plugged it back

I am going to resplice all four of those small wires with new shrink tube butt connectors before I proceed any further. That broken wire might be the start wire for the gen from inside the coach. I cannot start the gen from inside but I can shut it off from there.
I came in to warm up after finally getting that wire bundle down so I could work on it. Did a quick check of the gen schematic and sure enough that bundle of four wires is the remote start/stop/run/ bundle from the panel on the dshboard, WOW, go to fix one thing only to find another that needs fixing.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
I traced the black wire coming off the + post and going under the RV back to the Generator start solonoid, but at that solonoid there was another heavy battery wire also attached to the same post. Don't know where that goes tho.
One could suspect it goes to the DC distribution Center, but a run like that doesn't make much sense. Probably better to start from there and see where it's getting the 12vdc from.

Quote:
While I was there I saw a small broken corroded wire from a bundle of 4 wires.
Those are the remote start wires. The yellow once actuates the starter, the others are ground, shutdown and power for the gen running light up front. With the yellow wire connected properly, you should now have remote start.

That tube has to be either the fuel line or perhaps a crankcase vent tube going to the intake/air filter housing. Pic 1 shows the fuel pump with all those red wires hanging over it. Pic 4 looks like another solenoid with another positive high amp 12vdv cable, but it sure isn't the one in Pic 1, this has me confused.

On edit...I didn't see you had posted just before this one...oops
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:28 AM   #17
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One could suspect it goes to the DC distribution Center, but a run like that doesn't make much sense. Probably better to start from there and see where it's getting the 12vdc from.



Those are the remote start wires. The yellow once actuates the starter, the others are ground, shutdown and power for the gen running light up front. With the yellow wire connected properly, you should now have remote start.

That tube has to be either the fuel line or perhaps a crankcase vent tube going to the intake/air filter housing. Pic 1 shows the fuel pump with all those red wires hanging over it. Pic 4 looks like another solenoid with another positive high amp 12vdv cable, but it sure isn't the one in Pic 1, this has me confused.

On edit...I didn't see you had posted just before this one...oops
Man it's cold out there today in Sunny South Florida, gotta warm up up a bit, it's good I found those bad wires,. who ever did that splice job did a crappy job of it, I can see corrosion in all the unbroken butt splices.

in pic 4 I think that greenish tube wire is the bottom of the water heater and you are looking at the other side of the gen start solenoid. The kitchen is right above.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:22 AM   #18
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in pic 4 I think that greenish tube wire is the bottom of the water heater and you are looking at the other side of the gen start solenoid. The kitchen is right above.
Ok, I got it now. Black is on the inbound + side (both wires), the red out the other side going to genny starter. That green tube looks like an old resistor. Say, that grey thing in Pic 1 & 4 on the left looks like a valve cover of a Generac, is that what it is? BTW is your Silver Eagle a diesel bus or a gas motorhome and what year is it?
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:02 AM   #19
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Ok, I got it now. Black is on the inbound + side (both wires), the red out the other side going to genny starter. That green tube looks like an old resistor. Say, that grey thing in Pic 1 & 4 on the left looks like a valve cover of a Generac, is that what it is? BTW is your Silver Eagle a diesel bus or a gas motorhome and what year is it?
It's a 1991 Gas with a ford motor
After the re splice I can now start the gen from inside as well as outside and it is a generac
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:52 AM   #20
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To save a file with most web browsers you can right click on the picture and select save file. That drawing is located at http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...Goodsetup1.jpg

With battery disconnect setups, if the use/store switch works opposite of what it is supposed to do, it just means the white/brown wires are revesed for the coach relay or for the chassis side relay, the grey/purple wires are reversed. You simply swap the wires connected to the "I" and "S" terminals at the solinoid

The LED's on the switch panel tell you that power is available on the output side of the applicable solinoid (USE position of associated switch). Power to the coach LED comes from the green wire. The chassis side LED power comes from the yellow wire.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:28 PM   #21
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To save a file with most web browsers you can right click on the picture and select save file. That drawing is located at http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...Goodsetup1.jpg

With battery disconnect setups, if the use/store switch works opposite of what it is supposed to do, it just means the white/brown wires are revesed for the coach relay or for the chassis side relay, the grey/purple wires are reversed. You simply swap the wires connected to the "I" and "S" terminals at the solinoid

The LED's on the switch panel tell you that power is available on the output side of the applicable solinoid (USE position of associated switch). Power to the coach LED comes from the green wire. The chassis side LED power comes from the yellow wire.
I just discovered one of the wire butt splice to the 5 amp fuse that lights the led on the panel is bad, if I wiggle it I can turn the light on or off. The disconnect is working, I checked it by turning on a few ceiling lights and I could turn them on and off with the disconnect switch. I will change every splice I can find.
Next issue
The black wire I disconnected from the battery + terminal that runs under the rv and back to the gen start solonoid is not the only power wire to that solonoid, it is getting power from the Coach disconnect solenoid. if you look at the pictures, the black wire that comes off the rh side that coach disconnect solenoid goes down behind the batteries and it appears that it too goes back to the gen start solenoid. The start solenoid on the Gen has two battery wires attached to it. Why is there two battery wires running to that solenoid?????
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:23 PM   #22
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The black wire I disconnected from the battery + terminal that runs under the rv and back to the gen start solonoid is not the only power wire to that solonoid, it is getting power from the Coach disconnect solenoid. if you look at the pictures, the black wire that comes off the rh side that coach disconnect solenoid goes down behind the batteries and it appears that it too goes back to the gen start solenoid. The start solenoid on the Gen has two battery wires attached to it. Why is there two battery wires running to that solenoid?????
Good question. You think it's confusing on your end? Bear with me while I think and type out loud. When the chassis solenoid is in connect mode, chassis power is going to the genny starter. Because the extra + cable on the house battery is also running to that same connection, when the chassis is not disconnected, power is being transferred from the chassis batt to the house batt. This is either the way the alternator charges the house batt, or the PO ran that cable so he could power the genny starter with both battery banks. It wouldn't be that strange for the mfg to use the chassis batt (a starting batt) to start the genny. However, that connects the 2 battery banks all the time, at least when the chassis solenoid is in connect mode. If the mfg had instructions to disconnect chassis when camped, I suppose that would be ok.

Which brings me back to the boost solenoid. At least in newer MHs, that solenoid is also used to charge the coach batts from the alternator. Looking at the pic, it does have 2 control wires going to it....1 yellow and 1 white. If my assumption is correct, 1 comes from the alternator and the other from the boost switch. One way to find out is, remove the extra + cable from the coach batt that runs to the genny starter. Start the engine. If the voltage on the coach batt goes upwards of 14+ volts, that solenoid is doing both jobs. If not, it looks like the mfg set it up like that unless you can see another source of power to charge the coach while going down the road. Or, the signal from the alternator quit working and the PO added that extra + wire. These are my best guesses from this end.
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:42 PM   #23
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Good question. You think it's confusing on your end? Bear with me while I think and type out loud. When the chassis solenoid is in connect mode, chassis power is going to the genny starter. Because the extra + cable on the house battery is also running to that same connection, when the chassis is not disconnected, power is being transferred from the chassis batt to the house batt. This is either the way the alternator charges the house batt, or the PO ran that cable so he could power the genny starter with both battery banks. It wouldn't be that strange for the mfg to use the chassis batt (a starting batt) to start the genny. However, that connects the 2 battery banks all the time, at least when the chassis solenoid is in connect mode. If the mfg had instructions to disconnect chassis when camped, I suppose that would be ok.

Which brings me back to the boost solenoid. At least in newer MHs, that solenoid is also used to charge the coach batts from the alternator. Looking at the pic, it does have 2 control wires going to it....1 yellow and 1 white. If my assumption is correct, 1 comes from the alternator and the other from the boost switch. One way to find out is, remove the extra + cable from the coach batt that runs to the genny starter. Start the engine. If the voltage on the coach batt goes upwards of 14+ volts, that solenoid is doing both jobs. If not, it looks like the mfg set it up like that unless you can see another source of power to charge the coach while going down the road. Or, the signal from the alternator quit working and the PO added that extra + wire. These are my best guesses from this end.
You mentioned the Boost Switch and the Boost solonoid, by Boost switch are you talking about the Emergency Start Switch? and By Boost Solenoid I asssume you are talking about Solenoid between the two disconnect solenoids.

Today after I re-spliced all the wires in the remote gen start harness, I went inside the RV to start the gen, It started right away and I was happy, BUT, after a few moments suddenly the electric panel under the bed started to BUZZ real loud, so I shut the gen off and the Buzzing stopped, what the heck could that be?

Pic 1 The harness when I first pulled it out
Pic 2 I am showing all the crappy butt splices before re-splicing
Pic 3 The new shrink butt splices installed
Pic 4 The completed harness taped together and ready to re-install
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:05 PM   #24
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Bilito,
First one problem at a time.
If the cable from the coach battery B+ terminal and the cable on the "output" side of the coach solinoid (the right hand one) BOTH go to the same side of the generator relay then they are shorting out the coach solinoid. Same thing as placing a jumper cable across the posts of the solinoid to short across it. The output cable of the coach solinoid (right side cable of righthand disconnect solinoid) should go directly to the coach 12VDC power center. It should not go to the generator. If you want to know whats going on, you will have to trace that cable AND the 2nd cable at the generator to their source.

Panel buzzing - Is that the new ATS-301 switch panel you are reffering to (the new one you installed)? Selects between shore power cable and generator supply to the coach.

Dave
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:40 PM   #25
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Bilito,
First one problem at a time.
If the cable from the coach battery B+ terminal and the cable on the
"output" side of the coach solinoid (the right hand one) BOTH go to the same side of the generator relay then they are shorting out the coach solinoid. Same thing as placing a jumper cable across the posts of the solinoid to short across it. The output cable of the coach solinoid (right side cable of righthand disconnect solinoid) should go directly to the coach 12VDC power center. It should not go to the generator. If you want to know whats going on, you will have to trace that cable AND the 2nd cable at the generator to their source.

Panel buzzing - Is that the new ATS-301 switch panel you are reffering to (the new one you installed)? Selects between shore power cable and generator supply to the coach.

Dave
Both + cables must go to the gen start solenoid, I have one disconnected yet I can start the gen.
I cannot trace the wires until tomorrow when my buddy comes over, I have to remove the drivers seat again to get under the dashboard. I have a bad shoulder and cannot do it alone. There are two wires from the disconnect panel harness, a blue (to ignition) and a black, (ground), and then there is one from the coach solenoid all going under the dash and yes I do want to trace that second battery wire all the way back to the gen and see if it goes into anywhere else

That buzzing was so loud, I got a little scared so I did not go back to see
what it was, but the only thing under there is the ac/dc panel and the auto transfer switch I installed. I read in my manual that once the gen starts it take a few minutes for something to stabilize before it goes online, I'm a little fuzzy about that, here is what it says " Units with automatic switchover power converters will normally require up to 3 min to switch over before current is supplied to 115v outlets" it seems to me that it was running about two or three min before that loud Buzzing started.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:31 AM   #26
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You mentioned the Boost Switch and the Boost solonoid, by Boost switch are you talking about the Emergency Start Switch? and By Boost Solenoid I asssume you are talking about Solenoid between the two disconnect solenoids.
That's the one. MH mfgs and people call the same things by different names.
Boost Switch = Emergency Start Switch = Aux/Start = Aux/Boost, etc
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:59 AM   #27
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That's the one. MH mfgs and people call the same things by different names.
Boost Switch = Emergency Start Switch = Aux/Start = Aux/Boost, etc
OK and here is a pic of the battery isolator under the dash, it also has the emergency start button.

My friend has not come over yet so we have not been able to trace the wires down, he said he will be over soon

I still am not clear exactly what this unit does..........
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:28 AM   #28
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I traced the black wire coming off the + post and going under the RV back to the Generator start solonoid, but at that solonoid there was another heavy battery wire also attached to the same post. Don't know where that goes tho.
While I was there I saw a small broken corroded wire from a bundle of 4 wires and another that was unplugged from what appears to be a tube of some sort
pic 1 of the gen solenoid connection
pic 2 is the wire bundle plug
pic 3 is the broken wire
Pic 4 is the tube thing, the bottom plug was unplugged, I plugged it back

I am going to resplice all four of those small wires with new shrink tube butt connectors before I proceed any further. That broken wire might be the start wire for the gen from inside the coach. I cannot start the gen from inside but I can shut it off from there.
In Pic #4 that green tube thing is a resitor part #75234, do not know what it is for or what it does, but after I plugged the bottom plug back on and started the gen I got that Loud Buzzing, so I umplugged it agin this morning
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