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Old 10-29-2012, 08:02 AM   #1
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Intellitec Battery Disconnect System

I have the Dual Switch unit with voltmeter and indicator for chassis/coach batteries.
I can turn the Chassis battery on and off and read the voltage properly.

The Coach batteries are always on. I could press the use/store button and the solonoid would click but nothing happened, I could not read the Coach Battery voltage and the Coach red indicator light did not illuminate, we thought the solenoid was defective and several months ago I bought a new solenoid.

Yesterday I finally got around to installing the new unit, While doing that I cleaned all the wire connections to shine like new and coated them with di-electric grease.

Now the Coach red indicator light is illuminated and I can read the coach voltage, but when I press the use/store button the new coach solenoid clicks, BUT, as before, will not disconnect

I wrote to Intellitec and asked for the installation manual, I have the original owners manual and it came this morning in my E mail

In my system the the emergency start solenoid is above and between the two battery disconnect solenoids, the emergency start system works perfectly. There is a heavy wire going from each of the battery disconnect solenoids going to that emergency start solenoid and intellitec has nothing in their manuals showing how to wire in that emergency start system, I am thinking there is possibly an incorrect wiring issue

The Coach is not plugged into the House nor is the ignition turned on or in the acc position.(this was the first thing in the Intellitect troubleshoot guide)

Does anyone have a diagram of the proper way to wire in the whole system?
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:15 AM   #2
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No diagrams, sorry. Also not familiar with that particular system, but it is very basic. The boost solenoid is very basic also and it also doubles to charge the house batteries with engine running. Not surprising Intellitec doesn't include the boost system as I'm sure it's a factory install. As long as the boost works and the house batteries are being charged with engine running, all is working as it should. That solenoid looks like it has seen better days, might not be a bad idea to carry a spare.

Let me get this right. The BDS for the coach quit working. You bought a new one and it still isn't working. Looking at the photos, the new one is on the right. Looking at the battery cables to that solenoid, appear to me they are chassis cables. If so, you replaced the wrong solenoid. I of course could certainly be wrong. If you are not sure, have someone operate both switches inside the coach while you listen or feel them to be sure which is which.

Other than that I am clueless, good luck.

John...
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:57 AM   #3
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No diagrams, sorry. Also not familiar with that particular system, but it is very basic. The boost solenoid is very basic also and it also doubles to charge the house batteries with engine running. Not surprising Intellitec doesn't include the boost system as I'm sure it's a factory install. As long as the boost works and the house batteries are being charged with engine running, all is working as it should. That solenoid looks like it has seen better days, might not be a bad idea to carry a spare.

Let me get this right. The BDS for the coach quit working. You bought a new one and it still isn't working. Looking at the photos, the new one is on the right. Looking at the battery cables to that solenoid, appear to me they are chassis cables. If so, you replaced the wrong solenoid. I of course could certainly be wrong. If you are not sure, have someone operate both switches inside the coach while you listen or feel them to be sure which is which.

Other than that I am clueless, good luck.

John...
The one on the left looks the worst and in it's past someone broke part of a fuse holder, but it is the one connected to the chassis group 27 battery, and if I turn that latching relay off, I have no power to the chassis.

You are right, the one on the right is the new relay and it is connected to the pair of group 25 coach batteries and they are always on and for some reason I cannot turn them off.

I tried the touch and feel to see which is clicking, since they are side by side it is almost impossible, for me, to see which one is clicking, but I can hear them click. I am waiting until I get some help so I can use a volt meter to tell which one is is actually working. No matter how I try I cannot be in the coach flipping a switch and also be outside under the hood checking voltage, lol

FYI these latching relays do not make a large snap like a starter relay does, they are fairly quiet with just a small click.'

The rusty ugly relay above is the emergency start relay and all it does is run + power from the two coach batteries around all the relays and connect them to the wires going down to the Engine start relay, sorta like hooking up a jumper cable, they all use the same chassis ground.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:34 AM   #4
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Single & Dual wiring diagram here
http://shaw11.com/RV_Intellitec_Batt...nect_Relay.pdf

Also BIRD wiring here
http://shaw11.com/RV_Intellitec_BIRD_isolator.pdf

Let me know if this helps.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:20 AM   #5
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Single & Dual wiring diagram here
http://shaw11.com/RV_Intellitec_Batt...nect_Relay.pdf

Also BIRD wiring here
http://shaw11.com/RV_Intellitec_BIRD_isolator.pdf

Let me know if this helps.
The first diagram I got this morning from Intellitect, the second is that just for a diesel motor?

I was standing there this morning trying figure out the wires with all these various diagrams and suddenly I wondered why I have four heavy wires on the positive pole of the coach battery pair, see attached pic. One wire connects the two batteries in parallel together, one wire runs up to the battery disconnect relay, one wire runs to the HWH Leveling pump solenoid, and one wire goes under the RV and back to the gen, I think.
Shouldn't those last two wires go on the other side of the relay somewhere? Perhaps that is why I cannot turn the battery off.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:44 PM   #6
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The chassis batteries are partially always on.. The disconnect is controlled by the ignition switch. if I'm not mistaken.

However if you wish.. There are two tabs and two pads on the front of the control board.

One pair (Tab pad) is the house disconnect solenoid, You can hook up a voltmeter to the tab and pad and see the voltage go positive when you press either USE or STORE, and negative on the other side of the switch.

Connecting to the other pair will show *IF* the other solenoid is ever getting power.

Or you can use a test lamp, the advantage of the lamp is it does not care if which way the current flows.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:09 PM   #7
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The chassis batteries are partially always on.. The disconnect is controlled by the ignition switch. if I'm not mistaken.

However if you wish.. There are two tabs and two pads on the front of the control board.

One pair (Tab pad) is the house disconnect solenoid, You can hook up a voltmeter to the tab and pad and see the voltage go positive when you press either USE or STORE, and negative on the other side of the switch.

Connecting to the other pair will show *IF* the other solenoid is ever getting power.

Or you can use a test lamp, the advantage of the lamp is it does not care if which way the current flows.
I plan to do that as soon as I have another helper here to flip the switch for me
I did disconnect the wires that went to the leveler pump and the one that went under the RV
As soon as I did the led on the panel went out and the electric steps did not work.
So I hooked the one back up that went under the RV and the steps and the light started to work again, I left the leveler pump disconnected for now, Very interesting, hmmm, cannot get under it right now because the ground is still wet from all the rain we had and it is very cold here today.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #8
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Disregard my prior post, that is a different Intelletec system.

Hook a volt meter to the solenoid, (The two small terminals) It should show positive battery voltage when the switch is pushed one way, and negative battery voltage when the switched is pushed the other way.

IF It does, the problem is the solenoid

If not, the switch wires or fuse.

On mine, when it failed, it was the switch

To find out if it's the switch.....

Move the NEGATIVE lead on the meter to the chassis.

Now, hook to ONE of the wires, if it shows positive when the switch is pushed one way,, Check the other, if IT shows positive when the switch is pushed the other way.. Wires good.

Transfer the positive meter lead to the battery,, USing the negative lead check,, Again one lead (the one that showed nothing in the prior test) should show voltage (IT will be positive since you put the red lead on the battery lead) when the switch is pushed one way, (nothing the other)

IF all 4 tests show good, Ir it is the solenoid.

IF you get EITEHR positive, or negative voltage on one of the wires, but not both.

The switch is dirty.

Try removing the fuse.. Now if you get no voltage at all.

Cycle the switch 50 to 100 times each way, Replace fuse and try again.

This fixed mine.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:50 PM   #9
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Hopefuly this diagram will help you understand the interconnections.



The battery disconnect solinoids do not require a constant voltage to the coil in order to operate. A short pulse signal is sent to the solinoid that cammands it to switch positions (i.e engage). The signal is then removed. The internal mechanical design keeps it in the ordered position. A signal of reverse polarity is sent to switch to the opposite position (i.e disengage). The isolator relay however does require a constant signal to remain engaged.

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Old 10-29-2012, 09:51 PM   #10
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Hopefuly this diagram will help you understand the interconnections.



The battery disconnect solinoids do not require a constant voltage to the coil in order to operate. A short pulse signal is sent to the solinoid that cammands it to switch positions (i.e engage). The signal is then removed. The internal mechanical design keeps it in the ordered position. A signal of reverse polarity is sent to switch to the opposite position (i.e disengage). The isolator relay however does require a constant signal to remain engaged.

Dave
Dave, it's good to see you back on here again, Can you email me that diagram, so I can enlarge it?

Wife came home and she gave me some switch flipping help
Now I am really confused, here is what happened.

I wanted to see what worked and what did not work when we moved the batt disconnect switch's, so I turned the headlights on and I turned some interior lights on inside

She moved the chassis switch to store and the headlights went off, great...
She moved the Coach switch to store and nothing happened, hmmmm
I decided to remove that heavy black wire that went from the coach batts + and goes down under the RV, and when I did she said "hey, the red indicator light on the panel just came on"

I thought the wire I just disconnected from the + on the batt was dead so I went to stick it somehwere and the was a big spark, it was HOT
[moderator edit], said I, how can that be....????

Got out my test light and checked the wire to ground and it was hot
Asked her to turn the switch back on and checked it again and the wire was dead, HUH,,,, so for kicks I took the test light and touched it between the + on the batt and wire, and the test light came on

Now I am really confused, that wire reversed polarity when the coach batt switch cycled between on and off.
Tomorrow I gotta go under the RV and see what the heck that big battery wire is connected to.
BTW with that wire disconnected, the steps do not work
Now both switch's are working as they are supposed to work and I have no idea what the heck happened, I guess both solenoids are working OK
Something somewhere is miswired and has been since I bought this thing
ANY thoughts????????
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:23 AM   #11
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Bilito -

From photos and your descriptions, this is how I would proceed. The cable on the right side of the coach solenoid is going somewhere it is not suppose to and one of the wires off the + battery terminal is taking it's place (unless there are other branches I cannot see). The right side cable should be going to the control/fuse board to power all DC devices. If it were, the solenoid would cut all power to the coach. So, see where that cable goes and those 2 coming right off the + battery terminal. I highly suspect one of those is going to the DC board by-passing the solenoid. Once we get the coach solenoid doing it's job, hopefully the rest will fall into place without much trouble.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:19 AM   #12
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Bilito -

From photos and your descriptions, this is how I would proceed. The cable on the right side of the coach solenoid is going somewhere it is not suppose to and one of the wires off the + battery terminal is taking it's place (unless there are other branches I cannot see). The right side cable should be going to the control/fuse board to power all DC devices. If it were, the solenoid would cut all power to the coach. So, see where that cable goes and those 2 coming right off the + battery terminal. I highly suspect one of those is going to the DC board by-passing the solenoid. Once we get the coach solenoid doing it's job, hopefully the rest will fall into place without much trouble.
You are right, the + cable on the right side of the coach solenoid disappears into somewhere unknown and the black cable on the + batt term also goes under the RV and someplace unknown. The red cable on the + batt term is the wire going direct to the WHW leveler solenoid, Both the red and the black wire from the + batt term are now disconnected. Right now all DC is working except the electric steps. I will find out where those wires are connected and get back here later when I have more light and it warms up a little. (The coach solenoid is the one on the right of the picture)
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:33 AM   #13
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Doesn't matter right now, but generally speaking the steps should (or normally do) run off the chassis batt. It also seems a PO by-passed a cut-off system and wired the coach batt directly to the leveler, again, no big deal. So I suspect that black + wire off the batt is going to the DC control center. BTW, a pic of that would be great, the mfg of the board and a model number could help a bunch.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:10 AM   #14
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You are right, the + cable on the right side of the coach solenoid disappears into somewhere unknown and the black cable on the + batt term also goes under the RV and someplace unknown. The red cable on the + batt term is the wire going direct to the WHW leveler solenoid, Both the red and the black wire from the + batt term are now disconnected. Right now all DC is working except the electric steps. I will find out where those wires are connected and get back here later when I have more light and it warms up a little. (The coach solenoid is the one on the right of the picture)
I traced the black wire coming off the + post and going under the RV back to the Generator start solonoid, but at that solonoid there was another heavy battery wire also attached to the same post. Don't know where that goes tho.
While I was there I saw a small broken corroded wire from a bundle of 4 wires and another that was unplugged from what appears to be a tube of some sort
pic 1 of the gen solenoid connection
pic 2 is the wire bundle plug
pic 3 is the broken wire
Pic 4 is the tube thing, the bottom plug was unplugged, I plugged it back

I am going to resplice all four of those small wires with new shrink tube butt connectors before I proceed any further. That broken wire might be the start wire for the gen from inside the coach. I cannot start the gen from inside but I can shut it off from there.
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