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Old 11-18-2009, 12:58 PM   #197
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Oldvet, If your fairly close to sea level and the RPMs are at 750 a vacuum guage will do the trick also.....

18 to 19 inches of vacuum @750 RPM should be very close for ideal settings, High & low pressures will change it somewhat also...

Changing out the balancer and seal is a big PITA unless you have the better (not cheap) tool along with the seal installer.

Jim
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:33 PM   #198
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Oldvet, If your fairly close to sea level and the RPMs are at 750 a vacuum guage will do the trick also.....

18 to 19 inches of vacuum @750 RPM should be very close for ideal settings, High & low pressures will change it somewhat also...

Changing out the balancer and seal is a big PITA unless you have the better (not cheap) tool along with the seal installer.

Jim
I know i`m in the 10-12 degree range now, we`ll see how it runs first.
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:33 PM   #199
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YUP, I'm easily running up in the 18 inches of vacuum at 750 RPM as well - but have run out of RVing season for adequate driving time/miles...
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Old 11-22-2009, 05:37 PM   #200
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A little added info related to my own MH, just for comparison.

Needed to add a bit more antifreeze to my cooling system to increase protection, so used my infra-red digital thermometer to check temps at various points - had a sheet of plastic in front of radiator to help get everything up to max temperature.

After a full warm-up, HIGHEST temp I could register was in the 160 range, at the top area of the radiator - engine pan/oil filter was somewhat lower. The engine fan was cycling quite regularly with the airflow cut off thru the radiator, the electric fans never did start up.

Seems pretty clear I must have a 160 degree thermostat - if any at all - and when I next take the engine cover off, will look into the situation to try to get engine operating temp up closer to the normal range. Took the MH out on a 30 mile round trip a few days ago, up one of our steepest and longest mountain pass grades - temp NEVER came close to normal, and the engine fan never once engaged. Outside temp was in lower 40's.

OH - and NO pinging under load at any time!

Just a FWIW...
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:17 PM   #201
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I`m envious hope i can get to those cool results.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:44 AM   #202
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I`m envious hope i can get to those cool results.

WELL, in summer heat, mine seems to run a bit closer to normal on gauge - but never too near the center mark, and running too cool isn't good either, since it encourages sludge and varnish accumulation inside the engine. SO, I'll probably wait until spring, and pull the thermostat to see what's in there - and plan to install a 180, or perhaps a 190, to warm things up a bit...
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:22 AM   #203
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WELL, in summer heat, mine seems to run a bit closer to normal on gauge - but never too near the center mark, and running too cool isn't good either, since it encourages sludge and varnish accumulation inside the engine. SO, I'll probably wait until spring, and pull the thermostat to see what's in there - and plan to install a 180, or perhaps a 190, to warm things up a bit...
Gary, The better thermostats (Robert shaw) has ranges 160,180 & 195....
One small 1/8 hole drilled into the side of the stat will allow water to pass through and give the stat e'nuf water flow to open quicker, Mine are purchased from "Stewart water pumps" and have 3 holes in them which ain't good cuz going down long grades it will dip into the low 170s......
I prefer to use the 180 thermostat for better temp control especially going up the long grades with a tow behind me.....

Jim
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:47 PM   #204
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Gary, The better thermostats (Robert shaw) has ranges 160,180 & 195....
One small 1/8 hole drilled into the side of the stat will allow water to pass through and give the stat e'nuf water flow to open quicker, Mine are purchased from "Stewart water pumps" and have 3 holes in them which ain't good cuz going down long grades it will dip into the low 170s......
I prefer to use the 180 thermostat for better temp control especially going up the long grades with a tow behind me.....

Jim
Thanks Jim - the 180 sounds good, lots of long steep grades here, so don't want TOO high coolant temps...
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Old 11-23-2009, 02:41 PM   #205
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OH - and on another note, checked the pair of 1/2 lines running from the radiator area back to the rear MH heater, and they both get hot as soon as the engine begins to heat, and long before any possibility of the thermostat opening - the standard vehicle heat control was off at the time.

Reinforces my theory that the rear heater lines bypass the engine thermostat, and compromise the function of the thermostat. Couldn't see exactly where the in/out lines to the rear heater take off and retun to the engine or radiator, will have to wait until I next remove the engine cover...
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:09 AM   #206
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Took it for about a 75 mile run yesterday, it ran different than before, seemed to have more power. Seemed like the four barrel kicked in easier when i got in it, before it was doggy,
Temp ran aboutt 190 but outside temps were only about 60 so i`ll have to get more miles on and also check the mileage.
Didn`t hear any pinging on regular low grade so i`m really wondering if the dampner had slipped and the timing was set to retarded.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:03 AM   #207
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Took it for about a 75 mile run yesterday, it ran different than before, seemed to have more power. Seemed like the four barrel kicked in easier when i got in it, before it was doggy,
Temp ran aboutt 190 but outside temps were only about 60 so i`ll have to get more miles on and also check the mileage.
Didn`t hear any pinging on regular low grade so i`m really wondering if the dampner had slipped and the timing was set to retarded.
Just bump it up 2 more until it slightly pings then upgrade the fuel.
Now if that works your home free

Eased mine up 2 more and filled up the tank for a run over the weekend (found a new home for it) and down the level road @ 50 MPH the vacuum read 16-18 inches and the idle vac was 19.5...

The rig pulled like a mule also over the bridges which surprised me, The only thang that went wrong was I forgot to insert the pin that holds the carb squirter pump rod in and that will a pain to repin with the carb on.....

Jim
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:21 AM   #208
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Just bump it up 2 more until it slightly pings then upgrade the fuel.
Now if that works your home free

Eased mine up 2 more and filled up the tank for a run over the weekend (found a new home for it) and down the level road @ 50 MPH the vacuum read 16-18 inches and the idle vac was 19.5...

The rig pulled like a mule also over the bridges which surprised me, The only thang that went wrong was I forgot to insert the pin that holds the carb squirter pump rod in and that will a pain to repin with the carb on.....

Jim

What ya gonna buy now ?
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:32 AM   #209
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Found a video of Jims trailer.

Hotrod Camper - Video
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:54 AM   #210
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What ya gonna buy now ?
Already purchased something.....It's a carb cooler plate from "JEGS" and thats the reason for the dumb move on the pump rod slipping off & out.
Found and installed a 3/4 inch plastic spacer for under the carb (heat control) which while it worked well on the idle and pushing it hard up the hills I was NOT satisfied with the mid range cruise performance while I tripped over to Tombstone a few weeks ago.
Off with that unit and on with the new carb cooler plate which jacks the carb up a dab over 3/8 inch which IMHO will hand out a better signal to the carb idle circuit BUT time and the summer heat will tell.
Loved that bike under the trailer It would take about 850 HP to get mine (front end) up in the air and that ain't going to happen in my life time......

Jim
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