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Old 09-10-2009, 09:33 AM   #29
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Here`s what i found about the anti-freeze, it was only good to -5. So i drained out a gal. and filled it up with pure.
Started it up with rad cap off and it bubbled until the thermostat opened, shut it off for a minute then refilled it then the bubbles stopped. Hope i don`t have a blown head gasket but maybe there was just air in the system.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:46 AM   #30
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That is one clean and good looking rig IMHO and well worth the effort to maintain..

Jim
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:59 AM   #31
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Thanks Jim, what do ya think about the air bubbles?
They were big bubbles like burps not a bunch of little ones.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:00 AM   #32
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Here`s what i found about the anti-freeze, it was only good to -5. So i drained out a gal. and filled it up with pure.
Started it up with rad cap off and it bubbled until the thermostat opened, shut it off for a minute then refilled it then the bubbles stopped. Hope i don`t have a blown head gasket but maybe there was just air in the system.
Ummm, Confusion here...(Not e'nuf coffee).
Initial fill was 1 gallon of pure A.F. and the rest was 50-50, Now according to the chart 50-50 will take it down to -34 and yet you are only at -5.
That additional gallon of pure should have driven the cold factor down even more like -40 or even more so you can see how the confusion sets in...
Those critters are very hard to burp the air and bubbles out and the overflow tank will suck up down to empty several times as it does on my rig.....
I run the same mixture (30% A.F. and 70% water) on the overflow bottle and after several refills it settles down...I doubt if the head gaskets are leaking....

Jim
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:14 AM   #33
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I`m a little confussed too, when i flushed the syatem then rinsed it out and drained from lower rad hose . But i didn`t drain the block. When i re-filled it i put one gal. of pure and a gal. of 50/50 in it.
Bought a new tester this morn, one with the swinging gauge in it and it read -5.
So i drained out a gal. and added re-filled with a gal of pure and now it reads good for 20 below.

After the flush there must of been a lot of fresh water in the block.
And that whole system to the rear heater prob had water in it too.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:27 AM   #34
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Are ya gettin what i`m sayin Jim, when i flushed the system i didn`t drain the block so it was full of pure water. And i flushed out that rear heater system too and the pipes are high where they come up behind the engine so that was full of pure water. That must be how my mix got so diluted, lesson learned there.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:30 AM   #35
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I`m a little confussed too, when i flushed the syatem then rinsed it out and drained from lower rad hose . But i didn`t drain the block. When i re-filled it i put one gal. of pure and a gal. of 50/50 in it.
Bought a new tester this morn, one with the swinging gauge in it and it read -5.
So i drained out a gal. and added re-filled with a gal of pure and now it reads good for 20 below.

After the flush there must of been a lot of fresh water in the block.
And that whole system to the rear heater prob had water in it too.
On the 2nd cup and it's making sense now....
On one of the anti freeze web sites the statement was made about toooo much or nearly pure A.F. in the engine will protect down to only -5.
The swing tester while rather expensive is a good one, I plead with people NOT to purchase inferior tools cuz in the long run they just get tossed away.
Once you can replace the 5 blade fan your temps will drop even more, Then we can dive into the ignition timing which will drop the temps more BUT that is last item to work on..

Jim
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:35 AM   #36
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I tried the tester in a new bottle of pur and it pegged it to good for -40 so the reading of -20 must be correct now on the rv.
Probable won`t change the fan so lets get after the timing issue if you like.
Appreciate the help.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:46 AM   #37
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I tried the tester in a new bottle of pur and it pegged it to good for -40 so the reading of -20 must be correct now on the rv.
Probable won`t change the fan so lets get after the timing issue if you like.
Appreciate the help.
OK, So what you are writing is the long lines to the rear of the coach were flushed out with pure water correct?
It will take some time for the stock water pump to mix and distribute the "water & A.F." within the system....
According to "Stewart" water pumps the stock water pump delivers 9 GPM at 1000 RPM so with the lifting chores (front heater and to the back) the decision was made for his "stage 1" (cast iron) water pump that delivers 19 GPM......Nice fully machined pump...

Jim
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:52 AM   #38
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Yep correct and that`s why the mix got so weak, plus the water in the block.
So my mixture now must be about 40/60.
May have to add some more pure if we have to head back here in Febuary, hope we can find a lot of friendly places to stay in Texas. lol
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:05 AM   #39
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I tried the tester in a new bottle of pur and it pegged it to good for -40 so the reading of -20 must be correct now on the rv.
Probable won`t change the fan so lets get after the timing issue if you like.
Appreciate the help.
Now on to the timing issues, I've found that here in the desert blast furnance the temps drop 2 for every 1 of total advance, Doesn't mean you can crank it up for a band aid approach but 3-4 degrees from your base (4-5) will help out......
As writen before mine is on the ragged edge which calls for premium fuel in the summer heat and 89 octane in the cooler winter months..
That 20 cents more per gallon or $16.00 per tank doesn't bother me one bit cuz of the better fuel mileage and additional hill climbing ability...
For now I would ONLY reccomend 3-4 base advance and see what happens....NOTHING at this time over 8 base on your rig...Lets see how that start will help you....

Jim
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:14 AM   #40
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It calls for 4 degrees BTDC, your saying to bump that up to around 7. ?
I`m at 5 now.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:16 AM   #41
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It calls for 4 degrees BTDC, your saying to bump that up to around 7. ?
I`m at 5 now.
I would bump it up to 8 and take it for a drive

Jim
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:52 PM   #42
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Back to square one, set timing at eight and test drove and it ran 220 at 55 mph and 235 at idle same as before.
Set timing back to 5-6 and same thing.
Difference is it`s 80 today and was 70 last evening.
Seems to be the nature of the beast, shut it off with dog house off and ya never hear any water boiling and it never pukes any water.
I`m done messing with it and am going to just drive it, the only thing that will cool it in hot weather is a bigger radiator. Had others tell me 220-230 is normal.
Always open for suggestions but i think that`s the way it is.
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