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Old 09-11-2009, 07:24 AM   #57
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Today i`m pulling the lower rad hose and dumping some anti-freeze, i suspect the new tester as being faulty and going to buy another type and compare.
That`s the only real change we did yesterday. Then i`m going to put the factory temp gauge back in and try and find a place on top for the other gauge with numbers on it.
Idle issue is the egr i`m thinking and will fiddle with that after i get the temp prob. resolved
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:40 AM   #58
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Quote:
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Today i`m pulling the lower rad hose and dumping some anti-freeze, i suspect the new tester as being faulty and going to buy another type and compare.
That`s the only real change we did yesterday. Then i`m going to put the factory temp gauge back in and try and find a place on top for the other gauge with numbers on it.
Idle issue is the egr i`m thinking and will fiddle with that after i get the temp prob. resolved
Drivers side (lower left) should have a petcock, I just attach a long hose on the petcock and drain it into a 1 gallon container that way I know exactly how much distilled water or A.F. to put back in..

Jim
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:00 AM   #59
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Already drained it into a bucket from the lower hose, anti freeze is mixed at -34 so must be pretty close to a 50/50 mix.
While i was digging around seen that the water pump by pass hose looked pretty old so been fighting with that for three hours.
Now back to changing that temp sensor.

Oh yea, it has a 7 blade fan on it.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:19 AM   #60
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This may be totally off base, but might be worth filing away in case nothing else is working.....are you sure that the water pump impeller hasn't slipped on the shaft? It has happened before.

Good luck on your troubleshooting.

Rusty
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:23 PM   #61
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This may be totally off base, but might be worth filing away in case nothing else is working.....are you sure that the water pump impeller hasn't slipped on the shaft? It has happened before.

Good luck on your troubleshooting.

Rusty
Not off base at all and i`ve heard of that happening, i`ve been avoiding that thought for the moment.
I got the factory sensor back in so the dash gauge works again, then i plumbed in the aftermarket gauge into a heater hose. After 20 minutes idling it only got up to 160 , yesterday that would of read 200 by then.

Question, seeing a person don`t use the dash air conditioning much would it help to remove it and get rid of that air conditioner radiator that covers the whole front of the main radiator.
It also would make it so much easier to work on that motor such as changing the water pump if need be.
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:51 PM   #62
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I would leave the A.C. in cuz of the resale value when the time to trade up occures.
Looks like draining out some of the excessive A.F. may have helped your heat problem so take it for a drive for the final test...
At 160 your dash gauge should be between the cold mark and the 1/2 way mark, Is that correct?
If everything is under control now during the cold winter all you will hafta do is drain about 1 gallon and refill it with pure A.F......Good going.

Jim
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Old 09-11-2009, 02:24 PM   #63
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I put the same anti-freeze back in so i`m at a 50/50 mix now. Correct on the needle location at 160. I held it at a fast idle , fan not engaged and it got up to 185 which is the thermostate rating that it has.
Will take it for a drive a bit later, could i get so lucky to have it work.
The reason i changed that by pass hose was because someone put one on that was to long and it was pinched off pretty bad. Could that cause a over heating issue?
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Old 09-11-2009, 03:33 PM   #64
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I put the same anti-freeze back in so i`m at a 50/50 mix now. Correct on the needle location at 160. I held it at a fast idle , fan not engaged and it got up to 185 which is the thermostate rating that it has.
Will take it for a drive a bit later, could i get so lucky to have it work.
The reason i changed that by pass hose was because someone put one on that was to long and it was pinched off pretty bad. Could that cause a over heating issue?
That "PITA" hose is for cold starts and it simply bypasses the water flow until the thermostat opens up....
Everything is additive I guess, A slightly kinked hose, A slightly dirty radiator and so on.....
The slightly clogged rad will force you to run more water than A.F. cuz water cools better but at least it will run until the rad is really plugged up.
The "Weatherbug" is showing 118 at the moment and I ain't going out today...Enjoy your much cooler weather....

Jim
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Old 09-11-2009, 04:36 PM   #65
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Well here`s the results from a nice long drive.
I new there was a issue about where they put the temp sensor , the dash gauge never got past the half way mark even at idle. With the aftermarket gauge there it would of been reading 220-230 hwy and 230-240 idle. The after market gauge mounted in the heater hose never went past 210, ran 209 most the time on the hwy and going through town dropped to 195.
Got caught idling behind a school bus three times and it never went past 210.
None of that radical fluctuating like it did when it was in the head.
The clutch fan never engaged because it never made 215-220.
Now if i was to drain out a gal of anti-freeze and add a gal of water it should do better yet.
Gents lets hope i`ve whooped this horse, i`m loosing to much sleep.
Great board and thanks for all the help.
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Old 09-11-2009, 05:34 PM   #66
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None of that radical fluctuating like it did when it was in the head.
The clutch fan never engaged because it never made 215-220.
Now if i was to drain out a gal of anti-freeze and add a gal of water it should do better yet.
Gents lets hope i`ve whooped this horse, i`m loosing to much sleep.
Great board and thanks for all the help.

Congrats.....The indications are pointing towards a slightly plugged or under sized radiator so for a cheap fix I agree with you with the removal of "some" anti-freeze and add plain old distilled water in the summer months.......
During the winter just drain out some water and add anti-freeze and get ready to stay warm in Texas.

Jim
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:34 PM   #67
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I agree to a point though my whole point is that the water in the head is just as hot now as it`s always been. And by putting the gauge there you get hotter readings than what the actual water temp is in the radiator. I confirmed that by moving the gauge today.
If you put one aftermarket gauge with numbers in the head and one in the water hose above the engine you would get way different readings.
Somehow they made the factory gauge so it would not fluctuate all over and stay pretty much in the middle.
Would a bigger rad help, yes but imo the engine isn`t as hot as the readings you get off the head location say with a gauge you can read the temps with.
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Old 09-12-2009, 03:40 PM   #68
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Oldvet
Today I had the opportunity to fire up the rig for a decent temp check in warm to hot outside temps (110).
Both gauges (dash & Autometer electric) followed each other around with the temps ranging from 185 to 205 and the dash gauge moved real good.
At idle the engine fan would pickup some speed but drop off after 30-45 seconds after pushing on the throttle.....
I'll take that anyday......

Jim
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:00 PM   #69
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Sounds good Jim , if mine would do that i`d be one happy camper.

I took a gal. of anti-freeze out and replced with water today.
Going to check into that rough idle tomorrow, other than that we`re ready to go i think (hope)
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Old 09-12-2009, 10:38 PM   #70
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I have a 92 Winne Elante Ford 460 that I bought used 3 weeks ago. The temp indicator showed hot. With speed the check engine light would come on and it would lose power. I changed the hoses, the belts, flushed the radiator, new fan clutch and new 195 degree thermostat. Still ran "hot". I put in a 180 degree thermostat with a 1/8" bypass hole and all seemed fine. I eventually noticed that my voltage was always low especially with the headlights on which also caused the check engine light to come on. My alternator was only putting out 11.5 volts as the ground strap between the engine and frame was making poor contact. When it was manufactured no effort was made to clean the paint off the frame and grounding was ensured by a star washer cutting through the paint on the frame into the metal. I cleaned all this up. The voltmeter when to 14.4 volts, the temp indicator subsequently read low and when I put back in the 195 degree thermostat everything worked as it should. While I needed to replace the belts and hoses, the real problem was bad data caused by low voltage.
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