Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-13-2009, 08:04 AM   #71
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJWElante View Post
I have a 92 Winne Elante Ford 460 that I bought used 3 weeks ago. The temp indicator showed hot. With speed the check engine light would come on and it would lose power. I changed the hoses, the belts, flushed the radiator, new fan clutch and new 195 degree thermostat. Still ran "hot". I put in a 180 degree thermostat with a 1/8" bypass hole and all seemed fine. I eventually noticed that my voltage was always low especially with the headlights on which also caused the check engine light to come on. My alternator was only putting out 11.5 volts as the ground strap between the engine and frame was making poor contact. When it was manufactured no effort was made to clean the paint off the frame and grounding was ensured by a star washer cutting through the paint on the frame into the metal. I cleaned all this up. The voltmeter when to 14.4 volts, the temp indicator subsequently read low and when I put back in the 195 degree thermostat everything worked as it should. While I needed to replace the belts and hoses, the real problem was bad data caused by low voltage.
Don`t ya just hate things like that guess that`s where the saying the devil is standing there throwing a wrench in the works.
The other day i went to town to get a new anti-freeze tester so i could double check how strong of mixture was in the rv. I pulled the radiator cap off and took a sample from there and it read five below mix. I immediately figured i needed to add more pure ant-freeze.
After i drained a gallon out the bottom i thought maybe i should take another reading because that anti-freeze looked greener. Took a sample and it read good for 34 below.
What happened was the anti-freeze that was in the overflow bottle was some of the weaker stuff from before and that night after the last run sucked it into the radiator where it just layed on top where of course is where i took the reading.
If i wouldn`t of checked the mixture the second time i would of added another gallon of pure and made it much worse.
Makes ya wonder.
__________________

__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-13-2009, 10:57 AM   #72
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
Oldvet, Do you have a petcock on the lower left of the radiator?
I simply slip a clear plastic hose on it and fire up the engine till warm and the thermostat is open.....Allow the anti-freeze to mix up throughout the engine then open the tap and drain some in a jar...
Take the reading from the jar and pour it back into the overflow tank and your done..

Jim
__________________

__________________
JimElliott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 11:07 AM   #73
Senior Member
 
tmh462's Avatar
 
Thor Owners Club
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldvet View Post
New 180 thermostat.
If you keep having problems, try replacing the 180 with a 195. New(er) engines are computer-controlled, and the computer likes it better when it's at that temp. You may even get a little better fuel mileage because it's not richening the mixture. With a 195 thermostat, the coolant has a little more time to sit in the radiator and cool off before re-entering the engine. I had a Ford that consistently ran hot, when I checked I found somebody had put a 160 thermostat in it. I replaced it with a 195, and the engine ran cooler. What happened was, once the coolant got to that temp, the thermostat opened, and never closed. The coolant just kept flowing through the radiator, and never had time to stop and cool off.
I also put a thermostatically controlled electric fan in front of the condenser of a friend's motor home, which also helped his running hot problem.
__________________
tmh462 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 11:20 AM   #74
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimElliott View Post
Oldvet, Do you have a petcock on the lower left of the radiator?
I simply slip a clear plastic hose on it and fire up the engine till warm and the thermostat is open.....Allow the anti-freeze to mix up throughout the engine then open the tap and drain some in a jar...
Take the reading from the jar and pour it back into the overflow tank and your done..

Jim
Yep i found that.

tmh462, i don`t think this rig is puter controlled and it ran the same with the 195 it had in it.
I think we have the hot issue under control.
__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 04:30 PM   #75
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Took it for another drive, hotter yet outside 80 and humid. Same as before, 209 hwy and cooled to 195-200 through town.
Even idle stayed below 209.
Maybe, just maybe..........
__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 12:00 PM   #76
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldvet View Post
Took it for another drive, hotter yet outside 80 and humid. Same as before, 209 hwy and cooled to 195-200 through town.
Even idle stayed below 209.
Maybe, just maybe..........
Oldvet.....That 209 at highway speeds still bothers me...
Around town the 195 to 200 is fine and is expected but with the greater air flow at high speeds some gremlin is still lurking IMHO....

Jim
__________________
JimElliott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 01:27 PM   #77
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimElliott View Post
Oldvet.....That 209 at highway speeds still bothers me...
Around town the 195 to 200 is fine and is expected but with the greater air flow at high speeds some gremlin is still lurking IMHO....

Jim
Well that`s where it`s going to have to work for now, time will tell if there`s something wrong.
It probably needs a bigger better radiator and as many have said that 230 is normal for this unit.
I`ve read several threads on a google search where people called GM and they were told 230 is normal.
Do you have your temp gauge that has actual numbers on it so you can see whats what in the head location on your rig ?
My Dodge truck with a 360 in it runs 212 all the time so i don`t see where 209 is so out of line for a 454.
__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 02:13 PM   #78
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldvet View Post
Well that`s where it`s going to have to work for now, time will tell if there`s something wrong.
It probably needs a bigger better radiator and as many have said that 230 is normal for this unit.
I`ve read several threads on a google search where people called GM and they were told 230 is normal.
Do you have your temp gauge that has actual numbers on it so you can see whats what in the head location on your rig ?
My Dodge truck with a 360 in it runs 212 all the time so i don`t see where 209 is so out of line for a 454.
On the temp gauges I have 4 ways to check.....2 lazer gauges I aim the the (top & bottom) of the rad and the dash gauge which follows along real close and finally the Autometer electronic which is tied/plugged into the thermostst housing and with all 4 ways the temps are close e'nuf not to worry about it...The Autometer has 1 increments...

Jim
__________________
JimElliott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 02:20 PM   #79
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 29
Some considerations for engine overheating :

1. Reduce the antifreeze level to only the climate you will be in to prevent freezing ; WATER is the best coolant medium with a specific heat of 1.0 . Anything added alters that value. Here in Florida, I run just 5% antifreeze with 95% water with a bottle of rust and corrosion additive. It stays on 190 f. regardless of hot outside temps and how long im idling for.

2. Power wash your radiator and condensor surfaces, back and front at the do it yourself car wash . Be careful not to damage the fins.

3. Verify you are truly running the water temps you think you are, by using an infra-red Temp. Gun. Have a mechanic do it real quick if you dont own one.

4. When flushing your cooling system, use the Prestone Method and use their Cleaner beforehand. When draining, open the block drains...one on each side of the block. Flush it out good.

5. Add a bottle of Redlines Water Wetter which is a coolant surfactant designed to maximize heat transfer . Racers use it with great success. Get it at AutoZone or Pep Boys. Use 2 bottles for a 454 cid motor. I used it in my 454 cid 1970 Corvette. REALLY helps -- not snake oil.

6. Make sure youre seals are good around the radiator and condensor sides. Add them if they are missing.

7. Run your motor when stopped, to 3000 rpms and see if your lower radiator hose is collapsing . That will slow down the flow of water if it is.

8. Make sure your Distributor isnt slipping on the hold down bolt after youve checked the timing.

9. Replace the engine thermostat with a 180 f. if youre going to be in the southern states especially. Even though its rated at 180 f, it will normally level out about 192-194 f. during normal operation.

9.A. Consider upgrading your stock water pump to a Stewart Brand high flow model for the 454 cid motor ; I did this on my 454 cid and it made a huge difference alone. Go to their website and enter their Forum ; they have engineers who recommend the best one for your application. They are not much more than a stock one but well worth it. Very durable , good seals, and strong impeller.

10 . If all else fails, consider installing an auxillary electric 16" dia. radiator fan on the entering side of the radiator with simple Toggle Switch mounted in the cab so you can energize it at will. High capacity electric fans can be had at www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com very reasonably priced. They move a tremendous amount of airflow .

Good luck !
__________________
RVlover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 02:24 PM   #80
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimElliott View Post
On the temp gauges I have 4 ways to check.....2 lazer gauges I aim the the (top & bottom) of the rad and the dash gauge which follows along real close and finally the Autometer electronic which is tied/plugged into the thermostst housing and with all 4 ways the temps are close e'nuf not to worry about it...The Autometer has 1 increments...

Jim
All i`m saying is if you put a aftermarket gauge in the factory location in the head you will probably get temp readings that are in the 230 range and fluctuate a lot. Since i put the factory sensor back in the dash needle runs straight up and stays pretty much stationary.
I shot my rad hose right above the thermostat housing with a heat gun after a 30 mile drive and it read 191 and at the time the aftermarket gauge in the head was reading 230.
Straight up on my pick-up gauge reads 200 and the red line reads 260, and as i said it runs right around 212 all the time.
So what`s wrong with 209 ?
__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 02:52 PM   #81
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by RVlover View Post
Some considerations for engine overheating :

1. Reduce the antifreeze level to only the climate you will be in to prevent freezing ; WATER is the best coolant medium with a specific heat of 1.0 . Anything added alters that value. Here in Florida, I run just 5% antifreeze with 95% water with a bottle of rust and corrosion additive. It stays on 190 f. regardless of hot outside temps and how long im idling for.

2. Power wash your radiator and condensor surfaces, back and front at the do it yourself car wash . Be careful not to damage the fins.

3. Verify you are truly running the water temps you think you are, by using an infra-red Temp. Gun. Have a mechanic do it real quick if you dont own one.

4. When flushing your cooling system, use the Prestone Method and use their Cleaner beforehand. When draining, open the block drains...one on each side of the block. Flush it out good.

5. Add a bottle of Redlines Water Wetter which is a coolant surfactant designed to maximize heat transfer . Racers use it with great success. Get it at AutoZone or Pep Boys. Use 2 bottles for a 454 cid motor. I used it in my 454 cid 1970 Corvette. REALLY helps -- not snake oil.

6. Make sure youre seals are good around the radiator and condensor sides. Add them if they are missing.

7. Run your motor when stopped, to 3000 rpms and see if your lower radiator hose is collapsing . That will slow down the flow of water if it is.

8. Make sure your Distributor isnt slipping on the hold down bolt after youve checked the timing.

9. Replace the engine thermostat with a 180 f. if youre going to be in the southern states especially. Even though its rated at 180 f, it will normally level out about 192-194 f. during normal operation.

9.A. Consider upgrading your stock water pump to a Stewart Brand high flow model for the 454 cid motor ; I did this on my 454 cid and it made a huge difference alone. Go to their website and enter their Forum ; they have engineers who recommend the best one for your application. They are not much more than a stock one but well worth it. Very durable , good seals, and strong impeller.

10 . If all else fails, consider installing an auxillary electric 16" dia. radiator fan on the entering side of the radiator with simple Toggle Switch mounted in the cab so you can energize it at will. High capacity electric fans can be had at www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com very reasonably priced. They move a tremendous amount of airflow .

Good luck !
Whoops missed your post rvlover, good advice for sure. Have done some of those things and not others. I`m not going to tear into replacing the water pump at this time. I will pick up some of that water wetter.
The Distributor is not slipping and timing is set at 6 degrees BTDC.
Could go thinner on the anti-freeze seeing we are going south but might end up coming back in the winter so don`t want to have to drain the whole system if i don`t have to to bring it back up too -34
I`m thinking a good prayer may be in order for this trip.
__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 03:13 PM   #82
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimElliott View Post
On the temp gauges I have 4 ways to check.....2 lazer gauges I aim the the (top & bottom) of the rad and the dash gauge which follows along real close and finally the Autometer electronic which is tied/plugged into the thermostst housing and with all 4 ways the temps are close e'nuf not to worry about it...The Autometer has 1 increments...

Jim
Also didn`t you say you have a better radiator then what is in my 85 Winny, that`s going to make quite a difference in temps too.
__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 04:13 PM   #83
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: La Quinta California
Posts: 523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldvet View Post
Also didn`t you say you have a better radiator then what is in my 85 Winny, that`s going to make quite a difference in temps too.
I don't know if I have a better radiator then you but I have reinstalled a 4 row with 1/2 inch tubes instead of the stock 4 row that came from the factory with 3/8 tubes....

Also factory installed was a 5 blade fan (garbage) and that is how the myth's of ALL 454s run hot got started....

The engineers have massive budget constraints in order to save every buck issued from the bean counters with the end results of poor running gas guzzling whatever...

Jim
__________________
JimElliott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 04:26 PM   #84
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 169
I agree on the designers not knowing what they were doing in these older rigs and that we have to make some changes to make them work.
I`m just limited money wise and tired of working on it so will have to see how it goes, i`m thinking if we stay out of the mountains and travel in the mornings when its cool we may be alright.
I appreciate yours and everyone else's input and have implemented most of the suggestions.
Time is running out to do much more before we leave and have a ton of other stuff to do to get ready.
If i`d only been born rich instead of so good looking as they say i`d have a new rig
Maybe i should put a camper on the hay wagon and hook it to my JD 60 and travel the country that way. Wouldn`t have to worry about them thar hills.
__________________

__________________
Oldvet is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot water gradually getting too hot. radshooter Jayco Owner's Forum 4 07-07-2008 12:07 AM
Newbie Question- Hot Water Stops intermittently TunaBall 5th Wheel Discussion 11 07-06-2008 03:15 PM
Can you help with a hot water flow problem? Buddy and Beverly RV Systems & Appliances 10 08-14-2007 02:14 PM
Hot water tank drain, flush & fill SteveG Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 7 04-30-2007 04:40 PM
Winterizing--Antifreeze gets into hot water heater Janjanjan Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 4 10-08-2006 06:56 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.