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Old 09-16-2009, 11:55 AM   #99
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How many turns on the idle mixture screws, i had them at 2 1/2 turns and it was idling perfect. They had them at 3/4 turns plugged.
When i took the top off there was old gasket chunks floating around in the float bowl so that`s why my idle went south, needs a good cleaning then the kit and new float.
I know what your talking about with the power piston spring, the piston is held down by vacuum and when it drops the rods lift. It would need a weaker spring then .
I realize that`s a hard question to answer but these screws are impossible to get at with the carb on the motor and hot.
I`ve always ended up at about 2 1/2 turns on every other chevy i`ve adjusted so i`ll set them there.
I was getting eight miles per before set there.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:28 PM   #100
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Quote:
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I realize that`s a hard question to answer but these screws are impossible to get at with the carb on the motor and hot.
I`ve always ended up at about 2 1/2 turns on every other chevy i`ve adjusted so i`ll set them there.
I was getting eight miles per before set there.
I'm messing up on the "PMs" sent back and forth so I best clear them out and start over...
My idle A/F screws are set about 2 1/4 turns and my snap-on sniffer sez I'm toooo rich (13.9) and like you say they are a beast to find and turn but they have flexible drivers that will kinda slip in once you find out what size screws are installed (head fit wise)....
That other spring you might be perfect since it's 1/2 of the 11" sprinf tension you now have...
Fact is, General motors will never install something like that which is detramental to their engines....so using the washer trick just drop them on until the spring starts to move....
Also have NEVER seen a spring that is less then the 6" posted on any of the GM sites..

Jim
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Old 09-16-2009, 01:05 PM   #101
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Quadrajet Tech

This is another place for good info.....I'm looking for "Jim Hand" who makes the carb flatout work..

Jim
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Old 09-16-2009, 01:56 PM   #102
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You`ll have to explain the washer trick.
Founds this.



Using your carb, or a junk float bowl from another carb, as a testbed, remove the carb air horn (the “top” of the carb) and remove the power piston and its spring. Remove the primary metering rods from the piston. Now, drop a spring into the power piston bore and install the piston. Find a Phillips screwdriver, and place the handle of the screwdriver on top of the power piston with the shank of the screwdriver pointing straight up. Use a screwdriver that is light enough to NOT compress the power piston and its spring, but close. Now, drop flat washers onto the shank of the screwdriver and keep stacking them up until the piston compresses the spring and seats in the bore. Count the number of washers it took to compress the spring and label the spring as a “6-washer spring,” for instance. Do the same with the other springs you want to test. You’ll end up with a comparative rating of springs, like “4-washer,” “6-washer,” or “10-washer” springs. You now know exactly how to arrange them from softest to stiffest.
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Old 09-16-2009, 02:11 PM   #103
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You`ll have to explain the washer trick.
The washer trick is find a nail long e'nuf so the spring will fit over it....

Next step is get some thin metal washers and start dropping the on top of the spring until it starts to move down.....Count the washers.

Next is install the other spring and do the same thing, The spring that takes the less washers to press down the spring is the one you want to use since it will not allow the rods to pop up until a lower vacuum has been achieved...

Jim
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Old 09-16-2009, 02:15 PM   #104
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You`ll have to explain the washer trick.
Founds this.



Using your carb, or a junk float bowl from another carb, as a testbed, remove the carb air horn (the “top” of the carb) and remove the power piston and its spring. Remove the primary metering rods from the piston. Now, drop a spring into the power piston bore and install the piston. Find a Phillips screwdriver, and place the handle of the screwdriver on top of the power piston with the shank of the screwdriver pointing straight up. Use a screwdriver that is light enough to NOT compress the power piston and its spring, but close. Now, drop flat washers onto the shank of the screwdriver and keep stacking them up until the piston compresses the spring and seats in the bore. Count the number of washers it took to compress the spring and label the spring as a “6-washer spring,” for instance. Do the same with the other springs you want to test. You’ll end up with a comparative rating of springs, like “4-washer,” “6-washer,” or “10-washer” springs. You now know exactly how to arrange them from softest to stiffest.
Hahahaha....That will work also.....Both of us were typing at the same time.
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Old 09-16-2009, 02:28 PM   #105
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Don`t know what i`m reading, took four nuts on the screw driver to seat the piston with the light spring and took 13 nuts for the heavier spring.
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:26 PM   #106
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Don`t know what i`m reading, took four nuts on the screw driver to seat the piston with the light spring and took 13 nuts for the heavier spring.
was the one that took 4 nutZ also out of a Rochestor carb?

Jim
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:58 PM   #107
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was the one that took 4 nutZ also out of a Rochestor carb?

Jim

Yes but i think someone has changed it because it can only be about a four.
Doesn`t matter now i put it back together with the stock spring for now. She idles so smooth ya can balance a egg on the motor, yes while running

It only takes me about ten minutes to take the top off the carb so i`ll check around for a number 6 spring. I`ll see what my milage is.
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:01 AM   #108
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If ya come up with the part numberfor a number 6-8 spring let me know.
What`s your opinion about the vacuum advance being hooked to ported or full manifold vacuum ?
My engine is ported and runs through a vacuum delay by the vac. tower on the thermostat housing.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:20 AM   #109
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If ya come up with the part numberfor a number 6-8 spring let me know.
What`s your opinion about the vacuum advance being hooked to ported or full manifold vacuum ?
My engine is ported and runs through a vacuum delay by the vac. tower on the thermostat housing.
I prefer full manifold vacuum...Once the throttle is cracked and your moving the difference between the two is nill....
The problem is however the stock vacuum advances run between 20 and 25 (NOT GOOD)
Now if you can find a "Crane adjustable" that will do the job for you and set it up for and around 10 advance....
You can also limit a stock can by limiting the arm movement...
0.086 thou is around 8 degrees and 105 thousand of movement is close to 10...
Benifits on "full" is you can turn the idle speed WAY back, Mine will idle with the vacuum can disconnected right around 375 RPM and reconnected the idle is back up to 750 RPM....
Nice savings of gas along with a good jump off of the line

Jim
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:34 AM   #110
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So if i`m going to leave everything stock ported is best.
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:08 PM   #111
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So if i`m going to leave everything stock ported is best.
Yep....That would be correct but your leaving many ponies on the table and using more fuel which I refuse to do....

No doubt your engine still has stock log manifolds on it and I refuse to drive with them on......

People "Rave" about the Banks exhaust....I'll leave them alone also.

Jim
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:55 PM   #112
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Here`s my thought Jim, if the rig holds together this years trip then next spring i`m going to put headers on it and all new exhast. Plus do some more tinkering.
I think it`s as ready as i`m going to get, if i get near a puter in a couple months i`ll up-date this thread.
Thanks for all the help.
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