Is my RV running too hot?

[Ratman]

I recently purchased a 1986 Winnebago Sunflyer 22 ft. It is in great shape. I thought the 454 had a slight miss but discovered a leak at both original cast exhaust manifolds.

I too am in search of the perfect header for my RV.

Any suggestions?

PS I have possibly hijacked this thread with my very first post. For that I am sorry. Just couldn't pass up the oportunity to ask the question.

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by Ratman

I recently purchased a 1986 Winnebago Sunflyer 22 ft. It is in great shape. I thought the 454 had a slight miss but discovered a leak at both original cast exhaust manifolds.

I too am in search of the perfect header for my RV.

Any suggestions?

PS I have possibly hijacked this thread with my very first post. For that I am sorry. Just couldn't pass up the oportunity to ask the question.

Ratman, We welcome you.
The perfect header is NON existant and will draw some heat from other people who have their likes/dislikes....

I prefer "Thorleys" tri-y long tube coated headers with 2 1/2 inch collectors, Notice I said (2 1/2) inch collectors, Directly behind the collectors I also install the "X-PIPE" from Summit racing and one of the secrets is to get the "X" part a few inches closer to the collectors for additional overall torque..

The collectors are important since the rest of the exhaust plumbing is generally 2 1/2 inch which provides a very smooth exhaust transfer from front to back, Some will purchase larger headers with 3" or 3 1/2" collectors and will toss in a reducer to neck them down to the 2 1/2 plumbing which causes a "reversion" that backs up the exhaust flow into the engine and they might as well just saved their money and stayed stock....

You will also need the "A.I.R. fittings" on the headers and "Thorley" has them also....Sometimes the coating companys will sell them directly or (Summitracing.com) doesn't have a problem getting them....Jegs.com is another source and please insist on the Thorley gaskets...(THICK)

Jim

[Oldvet]

Jim what would be wrong with going three inch from header all the way back, ceramic headers would be nice.

No problem Ratman, welcome aboard.

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by Oldvet

Jim what would be wrong with going three inch from header all the way back, ceramic headers would be nice.

No problem Ratman, welcome aboard.

2 1/2 creates a higher flow through the plumbing and that high flow sucks the spent gas outta the cylinders..

Nothing like a fresh charge of fuel under compression and the waste gas gone.........

Our slow turning engine need all of the help they can get and the full exit of spent fuel is a great help......

I have "Flow masters 70 series" mufflers which are so-so but tending to think the "Dyno max hemi series" long mufflers might be a dab better...Plus they are cheaper....

Just think....A near perfect charge of fuel in the cylinder head without any dead spent gas lurking within the chamber will hand out more power and that's my reason.....

Jim

[Oldvet]

I fully understand what your saying, my mistake on the size i thought 3 in. was the bigger way to go but your right on the 2 1/2.
Someone put new tail pipes on mine from the mufflers back and used two inch, looks like 2 1/2 to the mufflers.
That made my situation worse and why mines getting a whole new exhaust next year.
Is there any end to the fun.

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by Oldvet

I fully understand what your saying, my mistake on the size i thought 3 in. was the bigger way to go but your right on the 2 1/2.
Someone put new tail pipes on mine from the mufflers back and used two inch, looks like 2 1/2 to the mufflers.
That made my situation worse and why mines getting a whole new exhaust next year.
Is there any end to the fun.

Sometime there is no joy.....On my 83 there was not e'nuf hangers installed (my fault for not checking) and one critical bracket broke..

Over time the constant flexing at the "X" pipe broke and the plumbing started digging in....I got it pulled over and ditched everything including some expensive mufflers.

Try driving that for 125 miles on the slab with straight pipes without getting a ticket .

I made it home but just barely and it was back to the drawing board and spending a few hundred more bux....Your right...There is NO END..

Also welded up at the connections a flange for easy removal the "X" section so IF the trannie needs some work done on it a 15 minute job to remove it will allow me to get to the trannie very easy..

If my memory is still working...The distance (center to center) on the Thorleys is 22 1/2 inches and the Summit "X" pipe will allow you to get the "X" a few inches closer to the collectors which is a good thang....

Jim

[Oldvet]

Drove it 30 miles this morn at 60-65 and never got over 195 but when i got where i was going had anti-freeze leaking from lower left corner of rad.
When i got home with it dry as a bone, what`s going on with that.
Had a leak around upper rad hose the other day but dry up there, can the radspring a leak then quit.

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by Oldvet

Drove it 30 miles this morn at 60-65 and never got over 195 but when i got where i was going had anti-freeze leaking from lower left corner of rad.
When i got home with it dry as a bone, what`s going on with that.
Had a leak around upper rad hose the other day but dry up there, can the radspring a leak then quit.

Yes they can depending on the amount of pressure inside the rad....

On my Saturn I'm on the 3rd piece of krap plastic radiator but now that it's cooling down here in the desert no leaks yet....

You have a 16# cap on yours and I prefer a 13#, Perhaps that can make a big difference, What approx was the outside temp on the test run?

"Bars leak" may hold yours together for a long time, A pressure test would help also, Mine will leak after shut down (heat soak) but this new one is holding up....

Jim

[Oldvet]

70 outside temp, still not leaking.
I`m heading to town for some bars leak.

[Oldvet]

430.00 bucks for a replacement rad and a nightmare to put it in.
Does the bars leak do a good job, i got some but haven`t put it in yet.

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by Oldvet

430.00 bucks for a replacement rad and a nightmare to put it in.
Does the bars leak do a good job, i got some but haven`t put it in yet.

Way back in the bad old days (no money) it worked well for me, Sometimes though I would perhaps add toooo much

What size is that $430.00 rad? That will be the question to ask.

When mine was recored about 4 tears ago the total cost was $360.00 and has bigger rows over the stock one which makes it a desert ready unit....

Jim

[Oldvet]

Supposed to be a factory replacement.
I`m tiring of this, i put a bottle of bars leak in it and will drive it every day for a week. If it leaks i`m draining it and parking it for the winter.
People sure lie when they sell these things.

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by Oldvet

Supposed to be a factory replacement.
I`m tiring of this, i put a bottle of bars leak in it and will drive it every day for a week. If it leaks i`m draining it and parking it for the winter.
People sure lie when they sell these things.

I hear you on the "Liars"......In the small town of Indio there are only a few mechanics that are trust worthy....

One great radiator shop along with Carquest is one my places to purchase some good parts.....

Also have my F@rd racing buddy who does a very good job on the exhaust systems...My "Hillbilly buddy" works in the RV shop and we help each other on the weekend jobs that crop up....Last weekend it was a 73 Revcom that needs some help, I've told the Revcom owner that he should sell the rig cuz some folk's would love to rebuild it......

Jim

[Oldvet]

Found another hose that needed replacing, one of the heater hoses that connects onto the back of the rad. Had to drain half of it of course
Still no leaks on a good note i`m coming up with a lot of good names for my new rig just can`t say any of them here.