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Old 05-02-2016, 03:24 PM   #15
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I thought of doing the Zep thing, then read all the threads on Poli Glow. I also called Poli Glow and talked to them. Decided to go with the Poli Glow because of the added UV protection and the fact that I wanted to use their Poli Prep to remove all the wax before applying the final coats. Poli Prep removes any old wax and I didn't want to take the chance of peeling later on. I did 6 coats and couldn't be happier. Just finished the entire coach a few weeks ago.

Also their applicators work well and are well thought out. Have both the mitt and the 7" applicator that you can put on a pole.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #16
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Which Zep product?

I have read many posts on various sites re: using a Zep product to renew dull fiberglass since RedMax 3 is no longer available.

Problem is, everyone refers to the Zep product as plain ol' Zep. I can't seem to find out which Zep product they are recommending. The best I can narrow it down to is either Zep High Traffic or Zep Wet Look.

Will both these products give the same finish or is one recommended as better than the other?

Thanks
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:01 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by NavlAv8r View Post
I have read many posts on various sites re: using a Zep product to renew dull fiberglass since RedMax 3 is no longer available.

Problem is, everyone refers to the Zep product as plain ol' Zep. I can't seem to find out which Zep product they are recommending. The best I can narrow it down to is either Zep High Traffic or Zep Wet Look.

Will both these products give the same finish or is one recommended as better than the other?

Thanks
I can tell you that I used the wet look on mine and we used the high traffic on my fathers and you cant tell the difference in shine between the two. Both look amazing and was a lot of work but worth the effort.

Thanks
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:13 PM   #18
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Zep on painted surfaces

How do you handle wiping ZEP on where fiberglass surface meets painted trim?

It seems like it will be hard to keep the wet rag/towel away from the painted trim while applying the wax.

When (not if) I get wax on the painted trim, should I plan on wiping it off the painted trim with a wet (with water) rag or should I just let the wax dry on the trim and don't worry about it?

I've prepped the outside over the past few days and plan to put on the first of several coats tomorrow, so I would appreciate any wisdom you guys (and ladies) can share.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:11 AM   #19
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Where my fiberglass meets the paint also happens to be where the compartment door trim rail is. I avoid getting the coating on the paint, but if I do, I just wipe it off with a wet rag.

It doesn't seem to be a big deal, but the molding at the transition helps to hide the little bit of overlap.

If you get some on the paint and it dries, just use some of the Zep Floor Stripper on a rag to remove it. Then reapply a little automotive wax to that area.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:57 AM   #20
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We did the Zep treatment about 8 months ago and it still looks great. We live in Florida year round. I covered the painted surfaces as well and they brightened right up. I can not see any difference in the treatment from the fiberglass section and the painted sections. Chuck
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:55 PM   #21
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Look out for bolders and other debris

Ok. So I prepped my coach over the past several days and put the Zep High Traffic wax on today.

I thought I would be smart and apply it to the shady side first. Everything went well and I put on 5 coats using a soft microfiber cloth from Dollar Tree as recommended by others doing the ZEP treatment.

My shady side effort was such a success that my neighbor even commented how he could not believe what a perfect job can be done by using ZEP.

And everything in the world was perfect . . . . until the sun moved (or was it the earth?) and started shining on the formerly shady side of the coach.

All of a sudden the shady side appearance went from fantastic to awful because the sun showed all of the wax bolders that had dried on my gloves and then made it onto the rag and then to 5 layers of wax on the side of the coach. Also, along with the bolders were thousands of pieces of debris from the nice soft Dollar Tree cloth.

I couldn't believe it. In the shade on a bright, sunny day the shady side ZEP looks fantastic. But when the sun hits it the wrong way, it looks just terrible. I must admit that ~2 hrs later in the afternoon the sun/earth had moved enough that the bolders and debris were not visible at all, even though they were bathed in full sunlight, albeit from a slightly different angle. Weird!

BTW . . . I discovered that to prevent the wax bolders from drying & then forming on my gloves, I just rinse each gloved hand in a large bucket of water after each "reloading" of wax on my cloth. Worked like a charm.

So after discovering the borders/debris on the shady side I changed to a cheap microfiber cloth (3 for $2). Then I put 5 coats on the other three sides of the coach. And, the cheaper quality cloth worked fantastic, which also describes the other three sides of the coach, in both shade & full sun.

So my question is . . . any tips on stripping 5 coats without messing up the front or rear caps?

Or is there a way to buff away the bolders/debris and then add 1-2 more coats of ZEP? After all, maintenance teams buff ZEP waxed floors with gigantic buffers all the time, don't they?

Thanks for your help
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Old 05-11-2016, 01:42 AM   #22
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Hi,
I worked at at a school for four years up until recently and we used a similar product on the floors. We'd strip them once every six months months then apply just two coats. They looked great even in high traffic areas and were burnished at least twice a week.
I'd get a hand held polisher and get a scotchbrite or similar pad for it and try that. This kind of polish takes a lot of abuse so I doubt you'd rub through anywhere in a hurry.
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:13 PM   #23
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Hi,
I worked at at a school for four years up until recently and we used a similar product on the floors. We'd strip them once every six months months then apply just two coats. They looked great even in high traffic areas and were burnished at least twice a week.
I'd get a hand held polisher and get a scotchbrite or similar pad for it and try that. This kind of polish takes a lot of abuse so I doubt you'd rub through anywhere in a hurry.
Question to the masses...

Has anybody tried this?

That is, taking a 3M 3300 White Burnishing pad, cut a smaller 6 inch circle out of it, and put it on a hand held polisher. Say a Porter Cable 7424XP.

Reading the 4 step process on the Zep website, burnishing will increase the gloss and luster, but who can hold a floor machine up to the side of their motorhome?
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:07 PM   #24
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My question, at least to myself, is, "why bother?" Our coach looks so good, I can't justify all that extra work. Chuck
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:02 AM   #25
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My question, at least to myself, is, "why bother?" Our coach looks so good, I can't justify all that extra work. Chuck
My question was really in response to NavlAv8r and kennyrodgers.

NavlAv8r had a specific problem and kennyrodgers had made the suggestion of using a handheld polisher with a scothbright pad. I was just wondering if anyone had actually tried it.

Of course if you think it's too much work... we won't make you do it!
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:05 PM   #26
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I was very satisfied with ZEP until the past two winters. A year ago, while in the Houston, TX area for 2-3 weeks, one side blistered and bubbled. I redid it and we were in the same area this past winter for a couple weeks and the same thing. There are a lot pine trees where we were parked, don't know if that had any effect. I now have removed all the ZEP and applied about 5 coats of Poly-Glow. So far is is looking good. Much more work than the ZEP, mostly prep work.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:46 PM   #27
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I was very satisfied with ZEP until the past two winters. A year ago, while in the Houston, TX area for 2-3 weeks, one side blistered and bubbled. I redid it and we were in the same area this past winter for a couple weeks and the same thing. There are a lot pine trees where we were parked, don't know if that had any effect. I now have removed all the ZEP and applied about 5 coats of Poly-Glow. So far is is looking good. Much more work than the ZEP, mostly prep work.
Keep us posted on how the Poly-Glow holds up. Seems like I read the Poly-Glow contains more polymer solids than the floor finishes. Would really like to know if there is a difference.
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Old 05-14-2016, 02:46 AM   #28
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Thinking more about this.......
The floor polishers run at a very low speed compared to a hand held.....With regards to scotchbrite pads et al I wonder if the higher speed would cause a problem........
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