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Old 05-12-2015, 07:02 PM   #29
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Angry

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Originally Posted by Franka548 View Post
Bobby,
That is good info, Something is not wired correctly if the MOM switch has to be on dual, and the ignition switch should not have to be on, this tells me that you are running off the chassis battery and not the house batteries. Either there is an added solenoid that is wired incorrectly, or is bad, or the house batteries are not wired into the circuit correctly.
Frank
Going to have to check that out Frank, I thought it was weird having to have the key on when running 12 v system. There is the usual isolator solenoid by the batteries and one by the engine near the alternator. The owners manual says the MOM switch should be in the dual position to charge. All I know is nothing works on the monitor panel if it isn't on. I wonder if that caused the metal transfer on my distributor cap terminal(having the key on overnight) ? Oh well another thing to figure out! Bobby
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Old 05-13-2015, 07:43 AM   #30
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Bobby,
Leaving the key on can burn out the ignition module, the coil and the rotor, depending on where the distributor is stopped during the cycle. The dual mode on the selector switch is so the convertor will charge the chassis battery. It sounds like either something is not wired correctly in the selector switch, or the house batteries are not wired to the convertor correctly.
Frank
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Old 05-25-2015, 10:31 PM   #31
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Well, we have made a Lot of progress! Got the panel above the stove working and all the lights. The only issue now is the fridge only lights up on DC but doesn't sound like it kicks on or anything. It won't light up on AC and we haven't tried the gas yet because I want to have it looked at before we try it. We have determined that we need new solonoids and actual RV batteries as what is in there is just car batteries and they are dead every time we try to start it.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:37 AM   #32
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Upde-Owl,
There are 2 different systems that connect to the batteries, The chassis, and the house part. The chassis battery is to run the automotive part of the unit, the running lights, starting of the motor, etc, It should be a starting battery(car battery). The house batteries, should be Deep cycle type batteries, A lot of units use 2-6 volt golf cart batteries hooked up in series to put out 12 volts. These 2 systems should be separate. On the fridge, the controls are 12 volts DC. You won't hear the fridge kick on like your regular house fridge(there is no compressor, it is an evaporative unit) Hopefully, this helps you.
Frank
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:46 AM   #33
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The chassis battery is the one that is dead everytime we try to start the engine. We just think its too small for the beastly powerhouse. It came out of an s10. The other 2 are bigger batteries but are not deep cycle. Maybe we will just move the batteries around. There are currently 3 car batteries in the there but the one being used as the chassis battery is from an s10. We just think it's not enough to crank over the 454. It could be that we aren't driving it enough to charge it, too. But once it's running, it will run until we shut it off.

That does help with the fridge. How long do you think it would take to get cold? I would like to test it out and see if it works. Still not sure why it won't run on shore power but the progress is still huge!
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:52 AM   #34
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Upde-Owl,
It will take at least 4 hours, sometimes less, sometimes a little more. Is it a 12 volt/ 110volt/propane(3 way ) or just a 110volt/propane(2 way) fridge? Have DH take out the small battery and take it to a parts store to have them check it out and see if it is holding a charge or if it is bad.
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:14 PM   #35
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The fridge is a 3 way.
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:26 PM   #36
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There really is no such thing as a "deep-cycle" battery, or an RV/Marine battery other than marketing. All batteries are subject to damage if discharged below 50% of charge and the only differences between one sort of lead/acid battery and another is the amount of lead in the battery.

For your chassis battery, you want 550 or 600 CCA to reliably turn over a cranky 454.

The greater the AH (amp-hours) or greater the cold cranking amps, the more lead in the plates, and the more "power" you can store in the battery.

Your 12 volt "car" batteries will work fine for your house batteries unless they are weak or damaged (take them to an auto-parts or battery store for a load test). House batteries in older RVs are often damaged by being boiled dry when OVERcharged by the crummy charge controllers the RV industry used in the past.

As far as your fridge- is it plugged in to run on 110v AC? You'll probably have an ordinary plug and socket in the outside reefer compartment.
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:19 PM   #37
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First, a comment on Honeybadger's battery information.

The difference betweem a starting lighting and ignition a.k.a. car battery and a true deep cycle battery is construction. Car batteries have their plates made in a grid with lead oxide paste so a car battery can deliver high current briefly. If you discharge one of these batteries you lose capacity immediately.

Deep cycle or house batteries have solid lead plates and cannot deliver high volumes of current but can be discharged and regarged many times before they start to lose capacity. Especially if you run them between 50% and 80% state of charge.

We live full time in a 1987 Rockwood and have been doing so for four years now.

Dinosaur electronics is your Friend! Modern electronics for your refrigerator, hot water heater and your furnace when needed.

Warn you husband that there are momentary and continuous duty solenoids and they look the same from the outside.

And. For separating the house batteries from the chassis battery there are available for short money automatic disconnect switches, BIRD Bi-directional relay disconnect, that make a nice up-grade.

And. Finally. When you find that harmonically regulated 110VAC to 12 VDC power supply a.k.a. the converter, change it out for a modern 3 or 4 stage power supply and battery charger. This and a BIRD will help make you electricity supply totally transparent in normal use.

BTDT, and I may have a "T" shirt made some day.

Welcome to the club, or, "I don't need a hobby! I own an RV!"

P.S. That converter won't charge your batteries.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:21 PM   #38
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We have a generator on the rig. I was under the impression that it is to kick on when the house batteries are becoming drained to charge them.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:53 AM   #39
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[QUOTE=OldToolmaker;2573659]First, a comment on Honeybadger's battery information.

The difference betweem a starting lighting and ignition a.k.a. car battery and a true deep cycle battery is construction. Car batteries have their plates made in a grid with lead oxide paste so a car battery can deliver high current briefly. If you discharge one of these batteries you lose capacity immediately.

Deep cycle or house batteries have solid lead plates and cannot deliver high volumes of current but can be discharged and regarged many times before they start to lose capacity. Especially if you run them between 50% and 80% state of charge.
[quote] edited.

When I worked(3yrs) in a battery manufacturing plant, the difference of 2 identical sized battery cases(besides different colors/sizes & extra screw posts) to distinguish between which was a regular car start battery and a marine battery was the number of negative and positive plates each required. Plate thickness was all the same, but plate grid was different for each.

The start battery, may of only required 14 neg plates and 16 pos plates, while the marine battery may of got 16 neg plates and 18 pos plates to be able to handle the loads of deeper discharges, then recharging. The charging times and how charged would also be different.

We made the Sears Platinum(automotive), Everstart(small equipment batteries), Ultima(racing), Military(aircraft, tank and submarine), and many other high/low end "semi-wet plate" batteries at the time I retired 2yrs ago.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:50 AM   #40
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We have a generator on the rig. I was under the impression that it is to kick on when the house batteries are becoming drained to charge them.
Only if you're very lucky! The generator available in 1986 wasn't able to start up automatically. The poer converter provides the electricity to charge the batteries and your original equipment wasn't set up to charge batteries, relying instead on the drive to and from the campground.

I've installed a 1997 Onan in our '87 Rockwood and all I got was electronic ignition and a voltage regulator. Luckily for us, even though the original generator was missing, the automatic transfer switch was still in place and in good condition.

FWIW regarding deep cycle batteries, Trojan batteries use solid lead plates. We're not wealthy do we are using Deka GC-15 batteries to keep it rocking all night long.
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