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Old 10-25-2011, 09:58 AM   #15
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Brass punch works too... just NO STEEL. Sparks are bad
Yeppers... my mind just jumped into "if ya haven't got the good tools, this'll work" mode!
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:05 AM   #16
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:30 AM   #17
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Jim! Your hands are... GREY!
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:22 PM   #18
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Well, got the tank dropped and the old sending unit/ pump out this weekend. It wasn't that bad until I found out the gasket I got was wrong, and I broke 1 of the fuel line quick connectors. Actually, it was probably ready to break anyway because barely had any pressure n it when it broke. Anyway, let me say this, finding the correct gasket is almost impossible. It took me 3 days to find one; hopefully it'll be here by the weekend. The fuel line is extinct..period. But luckily, I was able to find a "repair kit" at O'reillys. So if all goes well, hope to have it in this weekend.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:48 PM   #19
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Update??
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:55 PM   #20
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Update??
Of course !! lol.

I received the new o-ring gasket for the sending unit/ pump assembly yesterday. So I was out bright and early this morning to complete the job. Once I had all the correct parts, my total elapsed time for this job was only about 2 1/2 hours. As I suspected (and you guys confirmed) my local auto parts idiots didn't have a clue what they were talking about regarding the lock ring. This rig doesn't use a lock ring, it has the 7 bolts which hold the mounting plate to the tank. Believe it or not, most of my time was spent fighting the damn fill tube in and out of place.

After everything was reassembled, I reconnected the battery, dumped 5 gallons of gas in it, and turned the key on. The fuel gauge immediately went to about 1/8 th tank. SUCCESS !!!!! I turned the key and the old girl fired on the first crank of the engine. Now here's what I wasn't expecting. I noticed the rig seemed to idle considerably smoother than before, but thought it was just my ear justifying a job well done to me. After a few minutes, my wife (who knows absolutely NOTHING about vehicles) said "it sounds like it's running better". And I honestly think it was idling considerably smoother. While I had things apart, I replaced the fuel line back to the genny, so I put some more gas in the tank, and fired up the genny. It also fired on the first spin, and ran considerably smoother than previously. I had noticed how dirty the screen on the old assembly was when I pulled it out, but didn't pay much attention otherwise. So I went and looked at the old assembly a little better. The entire assembly looked "corroded", so I cut open the metal lines out of curiosity. The lines were corroded on the insides to the point I'm surprised the rig ran at all. I guess for a 24 yr old rig, I shouldn't be surprised, but I was, considering this was inside the fuel tank.

Anyway, I am very happy that I decided to do this. I would have been REALLY mad if it decided to give up on me out on the road. I guess I'll have to wait until spring to see if it makes any difference with performance or mileage. But for basically 2 1/2 hours of my time, I saved myself almost $350, hopefully a potentially soon to be problem, and hopefully improved the performance.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:15 PM   #21
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Glad you got it! I had the same with mine when i first got the rig. Had a small leak in it to boot. I cheated at the time as i didn't have the tools i needed to drop the tank. When they did, It had about 2 inches of 'goop' in it. They cleaned the tank out, Welded the holes with a patch and replaced the fuel after running it threw a filter. I then had enough to make it to a station. I changed the filter about one week later to make sure i had got it all out of the fuel lines and card as well. God job done but then prices were more easy to eat. I think it cost like 60 bucks. Glad you have it done!! Now you have other things to do for sure....
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:55 PM   #22
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Glad to hear it went well and your back up and running. Gives me the courage to tackle mine. But you need to give me the low down on the filler neck problems.
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:16 PM   #23
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Ok, I bet you are having a problem with filling up the tank. On mine, They had switched the true vent over to another line and it would leak out fuel when full and we were parked. Another issue was when you were filling up the tank it would shut off the fuel and it would be empty yet. It would do that all the time. If that is your issue is the configuration of the tank fill and vent. The fill hose is on the top side of the tank. The vent is right beside the fill hose. The air gets trapped and when you start filling it backs up air in the tank. The gas stations fills use back pressure to figure out when your tank is full. Some stations are worse than others. Parking on a hill at the station would make it easier to fill. As far as i have been able to see, there is no fix other than to switch tanks. Some may not be able to do this but i had access to a plasma cutter and wire feed. I cut the old fill and vent and put it on top and welded a plate on the side. That worked for me and may work for the others out there. The newest rv's may have a bigger issue, But they can explore that with there chassis forum or Company site elsewhere on this forum. Did i answer your question??
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:27 AM   #24
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Sometimes I have to fill the rig slowly or the gas pump will shut off, but I don't have a problem with the vent. My problem is with the fill tube itself. The way the filler neck is designed on the tank, it sits almost directly beside the frame rail, and shoots the filler tube up toward the floor of the rig at about a 45 degree angle. There's only about a 3"-4" space between the top of the frame rail and the floor of the rig. So in order for the filler tube to be routed through this space, out to the fill spout, it puts a "kink" in the filler tube. I played with a couple of ideas (shortening tube length, etc) but didn't see any solution to the problem except finding a metal elbow (same size as the filler neck), cut the rubber filler tuber, and possibly "re-routing" it over the frame rail using the elbow. A 90 degree elbow would be the best routing option, but I'm not sure how that would affect fuel flow. That might create enough back pressure to trick the nozzle, which doesn't really solve anything. Right now, it's not a huge problem for me, so I'll leave it alone while I think about a better solution.

Because of how the filler tube is routed, it was a HUGE pain in the butt trying to get it disconnected to drop the tank. I could only drop the tank about 2" before the filler neck got stuck on the frame rail, which made it almost impossible to get my hand in there to release the clamp and pull off the tube. The only way I could get the tank down was to disconnect the filler tube at the filler spout and have someone "feed it" through the space betwen the frame and floor while I lowered the jack. Re-installation was done pretty much the same way.

For what it's worth, the rest of the procedure was very easy. I siphoned out as much gas as I could, disconnected the battery, used my motorcycle jack to lower/ raise the tank, and a few basic hand tools (screw drivers, socket set, etc). Once the tank was out, I dumped the rest of the gas into a container, and inspected the inside of the tank. Luckily, the interior was in good shape (no rust or sludge), which REALLY surprised me considering the age and it's a steel tank.

Like I said earlier, the biggest problems were finding the correct gaasket for the sending unit assembly, and an adequate fix for the broken fuel line. Since I broke the "return line", it was a fairly easy fix since it isn't under pressure. I just got a length of 1/4" rubber fuel line, and spliced it to the stock line with a "barb connector". Finding stock replacement fuel lines is impossible. So if you break the "pressure line", it's going to be a little tougher fix. The good news is that there are "repair kits" available at most auto parts stores, but they are a little pricey.

I used these parts for my repair: A grand total of about $250.
- Airtex E2060S fuel sending unit/ pump (for the 36 & 40 gal tanks)
- Ford #E6UZ9276A Gasket/ fuel tank sender
- 12 ft 1/4" rubber fuel line
- 1/4" steel barb connector
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