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Old 09-20-2007, 07:58 PM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Freebie:
I think that is the route I will take. I wanted to be certain before I did though.

Couple of things. I have a rubber roof on the rig. I plan to use eternabond on all the edges and places where it has an opening (Vents , A/C etc.) I do want to use something like kool kote to put on it after I am done to be certain it's fixed and sealed. I will look in to that as well.

Thanks for the info.

Also who is KEN? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Lorna, He has a rubber roof!!! Use plywood that is Rough sanded and rubber roof cement and use lap sealer on the edges right?? IF not I want to know. Thats the way they are doing mine so I'm only going by what they told me! We may need to step back and recheck that we are on same page!!!
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Old 09-21-2007, 12:12 AM   #16
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I have just two points on this: OSB is heavier than plywood, at the same thickness. Plywood is at least twice as durable, particularly in areas that might get wet. OSB (and particle board) is used to save money ONLY!! and that is decidedly a short term savings, as I'm sure many of us have found out with our older rigs. I know I sure have. .

Go with an exterior grade 3/8" plywood, and seal it up good. You may have to rebuild the rest of the rig to keep up with the roof. . .
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Old 09-21-2007, 01:13 AM   #17
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Most PT plywood comes wet and will have to be air dried for some time before you continue the job. It tends to warp as it dries and will tend to separate and blister. Then you will need to cut the blisters and glue them back down or on the bad one remove them and fill the void with Bondo. There are also the health concerns with putting copper arsenic in a confined space. A good exterior OSB could do the job but it is heavier due to all the resin and does not have great edge strength and is best used in applications where you can have staggered joints which is not really possible on an RV roof. A good grade exterior or marine plywood would be best for the job.

The biggest challenge is finding good grade materials. The Home Depot, Builders Square and Lowes stores all carry such junk you may even find on the thinner materials that are coming in from overseas and south of the border that they are putting some of it through a sewing machine and are using heavy thread to hold it together. I was head of maintenance in an old fashioned lumberyard and millworks facility and the first time we saw stiched 3/8 inch sheet stock we used it for a project within the mill to test it out and then refused delivery on any more of it.

Whatever you go with don't go with the cheapest. With all the time and effort spent getting to this point you will want to get materials that will match the value of all that hard work. Fasten securely and use a good construction adhesive rated for wood to metal use, vibration and water resistance.
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Old 09-21-2007, 01:38 PM   #18
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thanks for all the info guys. I think I will stick with the plywood. as far as the construction of the rest of the rig, it's sturdy. if it's not I am replacing it. and making it stronger when I do. (look to the rebuilding freebie thread) I will be back at it again this weekend and will have all the pics up.

Now for the roof. I must have an oddity. this rig has a rubber roof on it.it's in great shape with no rot or tears and I took extra special care to remove it. I will be looking for a good adhesive to put it back on with and plan to make certain that all potential areas for leaks are sealed. I may over engineer it but it's better to be over than under. I hope to buy the ply next week along with the foam insulation. it all depends on how the back of the RV moves along. I can't put on the last section of the roof with out rebuilding the back wall and the drivers side behind the shower wall. That comes next. I have one more section of roof to build till I am at the back wall that separates the bath room off. then I am on tear down again.

responding to the glue issue I dont' have to worry much about the wood to metal issue because this unit only has one metal area near the roof and that is a 2x2 metal frame that is just behind the drivers compartment. other wise it's all wood.
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:07 PM   #19
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Arin, I am trying togert ahold of the rv repair shop here doing mine and find out what thy use to hold that rubber roof down with. give me a bit and I will get you a answer,
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:21 PM   #20
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Ok, He said that they use a product called 'Dicor' It is a water based cement to glue the membrane down to the plywood! They use lap sealer on any seems and the edge with a trim piece to help to hold the edge to the side of the coach! One other thing, That roof is not original...They used metal and sometime later they replaced it with a rubber membrane. You are rebuilding that for the second time around!! Good luck and I almost forgot, You should be able to get that at any good rv place! Good luck and I will look forward to seeing the work on the other thread!!
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:06 AM   #21
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
...Lorna, He has a rubber roof!!! ... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



Okay, I've got to quit reading and posting on multiple threads on multiple forums at the same time. I'm losing my train of thought and I'm having difficulty keeping everyone's repairs straight.
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:43 AM   #22
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Capt. Dan. Thanks for the info. i will look for that glue. there are a couple of shops around here (Tom Raper being one of them) that I could get the stuff from. I will do that too. I was surpised to find a rubber roof. I knew it was going to be the 3rd roof on it cause this one had the original stuff in it with 2x4's added by screwting them to the existing roof joists. then new luaun.it bowed down and caused the aluminum trim on the sides to gap and break seal. plus it also separated at the tin on the front and rear. their fix was flashing nailed in then glue and duct tape. (not good) so here I am replacing it again. I wish I would have been able to pitch the roof but the a/c or the vent's would not work with the pitch. but I think I will be fine and I plan to put some strategically placed bows ont he roof when I put on my cover before the snow to help out with it.

Lorna, don't worry about getting scatter brained we all do it. me sometimes more than others.lol
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:14 PM   #23
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lorna:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Capt. Dan:
...Lorna, He has a rubber roof!!! ... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



Okay, I've got to quit reading and posting on multiple threads on multiple forums at the same time. I'm losing my train of thought and I'm having difficulty keeping everyone's repairs straight. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Now you ae sounding like me??????

I thought I was the scattered brain around here??? I'm soo stressed that I am going to say the heck with the coach and go in the truck!!!! Maybe next week. See mine and you will know what is going on.
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