Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-30-2014, 08:28 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,268
just got home let me look probably be 2 AM before im good
__________________

__________________
whem2fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 08-31-2014, 08:04 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
JiminJersey's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Mid Atlantic Campers
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salem, NJ
Posts: 333
Trev, you have a project in front of you, but it's certainly not a black hole like some can be. Pay attention to the advice about changing out the fuel lines and other rubber on that thing - from the tires up. My 88 Bounder developed a MAJOR split in the fuel line coming right out of the tank and sprayed about a gallon of Sunoco Regular all over the exhaust pipe before I got it stopped.

The genny could probably use a good tune up but other than that it should run forever. They USE oil, so be sure to keep an eye on it and check it every dozen or so hours.

The 454 is probably mated to a three-speed GM tranny, which is HELL on mileage - remember, in the 80s we had a national 55-mph limit, so it was no big deal then but you'll find that cruising at 60-65ish with an engine speed of 3200 RPM or higher is not the most efficient way of getting down the road.

Check the brakes - rotors up front? Replace all pads and shoes with QUALITY stuff. You don't want to scrimp here. Getting that thing stopped in a hurry and in a straight line can be extremely important.

Drain and replace all fluids - radiator, engine, tranny, etc.

Replace all engine belts with QUALITY stuff.

The plastic cap for the vent on the roof is easy and cheap. Do it quickly so water incursion is not a factor.

Check and replace any exterior bulbs that are bad, and replace interior bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs run a lot cooler and use far less juice.

Install a second coach battery if there's not already two there.

Check out the converter to make sure it produces efficient output - when you plug into shore power, it should supply at least 105 volts to the 120v outlets in the coach, and also keep the coach batteries fully charged. Get one of those voltage meters you plug into an outlet to show you how much is being delivered. If the converter is bad, they are not super-expensive to replace (or difficult), and the new ones are FAR more efficient than the antiques from thirty years ago.

Depending on use, a lot of the upholstery and drapes and stuff like that is probably dusty, musty, and dank - at the very least, wash it all and let it sit in the sun for a day or two to freshen up.

Test and/or replace those engine parts which, if they fail, could leave you stranded and at the mercy of a repair shop - alternator, water pump, starter, et cetera. You can get home if the fridge stops working, or the microwave blows out, but not if the thing won't crank. Carry spares for belts, dist. cap, maybe a set of plugs, etc.

I recently had an adventure with the neutral safety switch on my rig that cost me a frustrating 18 hours and much aggravation - if your coach shows ANY hesitation at all when you turn the key, and you find that you have to 'jiggle' the shifter to get a good contact in Park or Neutral before it starts, replace it. 20 bucks at Advance Auto.

Make sure the holding tanks are cleaned out and that all drain valves work correctly. A leak or fluid explosion from one of them is no fun at all.

Check the shocks, springs, and such. There are several aftermarket items which can improve the steering, ride and sway of the coach. Air suspension bags are relatively easy and cheap to install up front, if not on all four corners.
__________________

__________________
Always remember, you're a unique individual - just like the other 7 billion people on the planet...
JiminJersey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 07:47 AM   #17
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
Whem2Fish, i would love to have any documents you have!!
We didn't get any...
i found the "original" one online and printed it out. The pictures throughout the manual are low quality too.
__________________
Trevdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 07:56 AM   #18
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
I was at the track all weekend and unable to look on here. They picked it up offically on Sat and brought it right to a local RV shop/store. My mom told them to put a new roof on and reseal it, in addition to fixing the damaged cap above/in the shower. They guys said there is a new type out, something PVC something. Not sure.
i really could have used the RV this weekend at the track to.. the heat and humidity were killer!!

The shop will have it for a week and run through the engine and exterior/interior and we will see what their reccomendations are.

I will definitely keep all this stuff in mind. After looking at forums, to replace the gas lines is something i consistently see. Trans cooler would be helpful too.

As for the batteries. There are 3 up front. When we first went to look at this thing the generator wasn't working at all. The previous owner's son, changed one of these batteries up front and Boom the generator works.
So one battery for generator, one battery for engine, last battery for...
__________________
Trevdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 09:28 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,268
I'll get them to you originally the left one was the starting battery for motor and gen the 2 on the right art for appliances I have lots of manuals I sent them to billy I will send these to your email don't print they are large save as a bookmark
__________________
whem2fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 06:38 PM   #20
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3
Thanks Whem2fish and ArchStation we appreciate the help!!
__________________
Trevdawg Mom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2014, 08:22 AM   #21
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
I can't believe she made that her username.....
__________________
Trevdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2014, 10:21 AM   #22
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 12
You have two batteries hooked together to provide power for the "house"..the water pump, the lights in the coach, the furnace fan, etc. These also provide cranking voltage for the generator.
The 3rd battery is hooked to the "chassis". It is in service just like a car battery is, providing a starting source for the 454, power for the ignition and lighting, etc. This battery is isolated from the other two so that if you run the house batteries flat you can start the engine, place a bit of a charge on the house batts and then fire the genny.
There should be an "emergency start" button on the lower left side of the dash. If somehow you wind up with the chassis battery down you can push and hold down this button while cranking the 454 and it should start. This brings all 3 batteries in line...but only while you hold the button, and you don't want to hold it longer than necessary to get the engine fired up.
Keep all three batteries charged at home using the shore power. Watch the meter that tell you what the house bats are doing and run your genny if dry camping, you ant to keep them up.
The alternator on your 454 was not designed to recharge 3 batteries on a regular basis, if you force it to do so you will wear out the brushes prematurely and will find how much fun it is to change an alternator on a Fleetwood class A with a 454...I did it a couple of times and learned that good batteries and paying attention to charge management is worth the effort.
Also remember your generator pulls fuel from the same tank the 454 drinks from. The fuel pickup for the genny is higher in the tank than the engine one is. This is to preclude you from running the rig completely outta gas while on the genny. So, if your generator dies and won't restart and you find your fuel gauge is showing less than 1/4 tank you've probably exposed the genny fuel pickup...
__________________
Arch Stanton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 07:36 AM   #23
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
Thanks Arch.
I have seen that some where on the internet about the generator cutting out when the fuel starts to get low.

I wonder how long it lasts and how much gas this generator takes. Will have to wait and see.
__________________
Trevdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 04:46 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
JiminJersey's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Mid Atlantic Campers
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salem, NJ
Posts: 333
I don't want to negate what ArchStation told you (all good advice, BTW) but I'd verify that the CHASSIS (engine) battery is charged while on shore power. RV converters vary, some do charge the engine battery, some don't. If your converter DOES NOT, the easiest thing to do to make sure the ENGINE battery stays charged up while the beast is sitting in your back yard, between jaunts, is to get a $49 Trik-L-Start device from BestConverter.com - this little guy sits in your engine compartment and diverts a minor amount of the charge going to your coach batteries over to the engine battery, to maintain its charge. Takes 2 minutes to install, works like a champ. If your converter does not charge the engine battery, then the only other way to charge it is to run the engine, which is not very efficient.

Your genny, when properly tuned and tweaked, will use between 1/2 and 3/4s of a gallon of gas an hour. Once you get it running correctly, get a voltage meter that plugs in to a 120v outlet, and set the genny so to the voltage is in the green area - 105v to 125v or so - then turn on the roof AC, the microwave, or any other high draw appliance, and make sure the genny keeps up with the demand. If you can run the fridge, the microwave, and the roof AC and keep the voltage at least 100v or more, you'll be fine.

Run the genny for half an hour or so, with load (Roof AC is suggested) every month. Nothing is WORSE for a generator than to sit idle.
__________________
Always remember, you're a unique individual - just like the other 7 billion people on the planet...
JiminJersey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 04:57 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Brockx's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Punta Gorda FL.
Posts: 2,631
Shower skylight

Replacement RV Skylights from EZ Tops World Wide Inc.
__________________
2008 Bounder 38P F53 24/30K V10, 2013 Kia Soul Basic 6 speed manual, Ready Brake Elite tow system (previous equipment 1996 Pace Arrow Vision w/Acme Dolly)
Brockx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 05:02 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
DonDee's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spring Valley AZ
Posts: 1,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevdawg View Post

I wonder how long it lasts and how much gas this generator takes. Will have to wait and see.
A while back my 4kw Onan's gas line failed so I hooked up a remote gas can for fuel. Real world gas use for this Onan is 1/2gph with 13.5 AC running.
__________________
Don, Mary and Spooky
'00 Bluebird Skoolie Conversion
Geo Tracker/Dodge Neon/Aprilia Scooter towed
DonDee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2014, 08:07 AM   #27
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
Thank you all for your advice and help.

The RV is still currently at the shop and we have not heard anything. If we don't get a call this week, we will go there by the weekend.
__________________
Trevdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2014, 08:43 AM   #28
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
UPDATE:
brought RV to local shop (Art's RV) on labor day weekend - Sept 1st
big mistake!!

They did inital evaluation of interior and exterior. Within the first week they responded. Don't have list in front of me but....
Roof leaks over bed
leak near one a/c unit
windows leak
gas/propane leak
mount for ladder damaged
canopy is missing one of the supports (ours has 2 instead of 3)

there is a list of more things, smaller issues but i cant remember

My mom said do whatever to prevent it from leaking
- reseal roof
- windows
- shower vent
then we can go from there.

second week of september and no calls, we follow up with them and they said they resealed the roof but haven't made much other progress.

3rd week of september, no progress. A couple phone calls and phone tag but nothing

Now we are at the end of september and my mom had enough.

We contacted a mechanic and had them pick it up to evaluate the motor, don't want to get stranded. .
They said a tune up for generator, and exhaust, then tune up for actual engine, new belts and the air pump might be stuck. Then they would look at the brakes as well.
Within a week, they told us issues, and started working on it. No problem we are happy to see work get done.

My mom went to check on the Rv at the mechanic, and saw it on jack stands because they were checking the breaks. Glad to see they are working on it.
Then my mom gets on the roof to see if it was resealed..... NOPE! wasn't even touched she said.


She went back to the inital RV shop (art's), for the exterior, and they said they did "spot filling" or something. My mom disagreed, because she saw it. She agreed to pay 300 bucks for the inital assesment and cut it off there. Dan at the shop said due to the mis communication, there is not charge.

The funny part is, the recptionist at Art's RV said the roof was re-seald because that is what Dan told her. Then when my mom confronted them, Dan said no we "spot -filled it". The recptionist was in the background and said "No Dan, you told me you re-sealed it".


We will be bringing it to "Terry's" in Frankfort/Mokena area.
__________________

__________________
Trevdawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
pace arrow



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Battery connections 1990 pace arrow martyp Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 4 07-30-2014 11:45 AM
1998 Pace Arrow Transmission Problems? Reggysoleil Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 3 11-25-2013 08:35 PM
Heater core cable 83 pace arrow cb7 tom Vintage RV's 7 11-23-2013 09:00 AM
Battery giving me grief '93 Pace Arrow Porky pig Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 7 07-19-2013 03:37 PM
Bedroom door info - 2000 Pace Arrow Vision kaysystems Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 16 06-27-2013 08:54 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.