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Old 10-02-2014, 11:52 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by JiminJersey View Post
Trev, you have a project in front of you, but it's certainly not a black hole like some can be. Pay attention to the advice about changing out the fuel lines and other rubber on that thing - from the tires up. My 88 Bounder developed a MAJOR split in the fuel line coming right out of the tank and sprayed about a gallon of Sunoco Regular all over the exhaust pipe before I got it stopped.

The genny could probably use a good tune up but other than that it should run forever. They USE oil, so be sure to keep an eye on it and check it every dozen or so hours.

The 454 is probably mated to a three-speed GM tranny, which is HELL on mileage - remember, in the 80s we had a national 55-mph limit, so it was no big deal then but you'll find that cruising at 60-65ish with an engine speed of 3200 RPM or higher is not the most efficient way of getting down the road.

Check the brakes - rotors up front? Replace all pads and shoes with QUALITY stuff. You don't want to scrimp here. Getting that thing stopped in a hurry and in a straight line can be extremely important.

Drain and replace all fluids - radiator, engine, tranny, etc.

Replace all engine belts with QUALITY stuff.

The plastic cap for the vent on the roof is easy and cheap. Do it quickly so water incursion is not a factor.

Check and replace any exterior bulbs that are bad, and replace interior bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs run a lot cooler and use far less juice.

Install a second coach battery if there's not already two there.

Check out the converter to make sure it produces efficient output - when you plug into shore power, it should supply at least 105 volts to the 120v outlets in the coach, and also keep the coach batteries fully charged. Get one of those voltage meters you plug into an outlet to show you how much is being delivered. If the converter is bad, they are not super-expensive to replace (or difficult), and the new ones are FAR more efficient than the antiques from thirty years ago.

Depending on use, a lot of the upholstery and drapes and stuff like that is probably dusty, musty, and dank - at the very least, wash it all and let it sit in the sun for a day or two to freshen up.

Test and/or replace those engine parts which, if they fail, could leave you stranded and at the mercy of a repair shop - alternator, water pump, starter, et cetera. You can get home if the fridge stops working, or the microwave blows out, but not if the thing won't crank. Carry spares for belts, dist. cap, maybe a set of plugs, etc.

I recently had an adventure with the neutral safety switch on my rig that cost me a frustrating 18 hours and much aggravation - if your coach shows ANY hesitation at all when you turn the key, and you find that you have to 'jiggle' the shifter to get a good contact in Park or Neutral before it starts, replace it. 20 bucks at Advance Auto.

Make sure the holding tanks are cleaned out and that all drain valves work correctly. A leak or fluid explosion from one of them is no fun at all.

Check the shocks, springs, and such. There are several aftermarket items which can improve the steering, ride and sway of the coach. Air suspension bags are relatively easy and cheap to install up front, if not on all four corners.
Hi, I'm the mom.. where do I go to order the roof vent cover part and the shower ceiling crank out skylight?
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:53 AM   #30
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UPDATE:
brought RV to local shop (Art's RV) on labor day weekend - Sept 1st
big mistake!!

They did inital evaluation of interior and exterior. Within the first week they responded. Don't have list in front of me but....
Roof leaks over bed
leak near one a/c unit
windows leak
gas/propane leak
mount for ladder damaged
canopy is missing one of the supports (ours has 2 instead of 3)

there is a list of more things, smaller issues but i cant remember

My mom said do whatever to prevent it from leaking
- reseal roof
- windows
- shower vent
then we can go from there.

second week of september and no calls, we follow up with them and they said they resealed the roof but haven't made much other progress.

3rd week of september, no progress. A couple phone calls and phone tag but nothing

Now we are at the end of september and my mom had enough.

We contacted a mechanic and had them pick it up to evaluate the motor, don't want to get stranded. .
They said a tune up for generator, and exhaust, then tune up for actual engine, new belts and the air pump might be stuck. Then they would look at the brakes as well.
Within a week, they told us issues, and started working on it. No problem we are happy to see work get done.

My mom went to check on the Rv at the mechanic, and saw it on jack stands because they were checking the breaks. Glad to see they are working on it.
Then my mom gets on the roof to see if it was resealed..... NOPE! wasn't even touched she said.


She went back to the inital RV shop (art's), for the exterior, and they said they did "spot filling" or something. My mom disagreed, because she saw it. She agreed to pay 300 bucks for the inital assesment and cut it off there. Dan at the shop said due to the mis communication, there is not charge.

The funny part is, the recptionist at Art's RV said the roof was re-seald because that is what Dan told her. Then when my mom confronted them, Dan said no we "spot -filled it". The recptionist was in the background and said "No Dan, you told me you re-sealed it".


We will be bringing it to "Terry's" in Frankfort/Mokena area.
OH and anyone know their part numbers?
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:59 AM   #31
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Do you only need the plastic part of the crank up vent
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Old 10-03-2014, 06:43 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevdawg Mom View Post
Hi, I'm the mom.. where do I go to order the roof vent cover part and the shower ceiling crank out skylight?
I replaced one of mine with cover from Camping World. If these are the square units that crank from the inside, they're pretty much universal - all you do is pick your color (smoke grey or translucent, usually) and verify the size. Also, you can get the big vent covers as well. Just make sure when you install that you clean all the old caulk off the roof, and caulk down the new vent cover really well.

MaxxAir I Original Translucent White Roof Vent Cover - Maxxair 00-933066 - Vents - Camping World

RV Fans & Vents, RV Roof Vent Covers - Camping World

RV Skylight from Bri-Rus - PPL Motor Homes

https://www.rvsupplyparts.com/index....duct_list&c=37
They're a snap to do, just make sure you orient the big vent cover in the right direction - air vents in the cover should be towards the BACK of the RV.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:12 AM   #33
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OH and anyone know their part numbers?

Just gave your son the name of a mechanic in Lisle.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:47 AM   #34
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got it!
thanks Romer1
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:25 PM   #35
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Update!!
Top seal along roof has been redone. The awning has been removed because the wood that holds it was to far damaged. This helps with arrow dynamics. Lol
Engine had the carb rebuilt and a fresh tune up.

We just got the thing out of the shop and into storage. But it was towed to storage. The thing won't stay in gear!!
We drove it for a mile or 2 from the shop then stopped at a gas station to fill her up. While leaving the station I didn't take it wide enough and the bumper wheels scraped the ground.
I stopped to wait for traffic and when I hit the gas it was like I was in neutral. I let it cost backwards to the side of the road and then into a parking lot.

There is trans fluid on the dip stick, no puddle under the rv. The linkage is connected and working.
After you shut it down for a few minutes then start it up and put it into any gear, it engages. You can feel it is in drive or reverse and wants to go, holds it self in place. Then 5/10 seconds later nothing. Just reving the motor. And it will roll back when on a hill/slant. I didn't think to check the rear end, or if the drive shaft spins or not. We were just focusing on the trans itself.

Going to put some fuel stabilizer in it and a cover on it and wait till it warms up/spring and see.
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevdawg View Post
Update!!
Top seal along roof has been redone. The awning has been removed because the wood that holds it was to far damaged. This helps with arrow dynamics. Lol
Engine had the carb rebuilt and a fresh tune up.

We just got the thing out of the shop and into storage. But it was towed to storage. The thing won't stay in gear!!
We drove it for a mile or 2 from the shop then stopped at a gas station to fill her up. While leaving the station I didn't take it wide enough and the bumper wheels scraped the ground.
I stopped to wait for traffic and when I hit the gas it was like I was in neutral. I let it cost backwards to the side of the road and then into a parking lot.

There is trans fluid on the dip stick, no puddle under the rv. The linkage is connected and working.
After you shut it down for a few minutes then start it up and put it into any gear, it engages. You can feel it is in drive or reverse and wants to go, holds it self in place. Then 5/10 seconds later nothing. Just reving the motor. And it will roll back when on a hill/slant. I didn't think to check the rear end, or if the drive shaft spins or not. We were just focusing on the trans itself.

Going to put some fuel stabilizer in it and a cover on it and wait till it warms up/spring and see.
Check the trans fluid, should be a nice red color. If it's black or smells burnt it could be the tranny is toast. If you have a trans temp gauge it should get no hotter than 220-230. If its getting hotter than that there is a problem.
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