Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-01-2013, 06:46 PM   #43
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveclv View Post
My 1984 Monaco had the 454 carb engine and always ran hot and was designed to do so for emissions - spec was 225 and 240 was acceptable.

However, as road speeds have increased over the decades, I found that the a good size hill would bring it over 250 and that was too high for me to feel comfortable even though I was told that it was perfectly normal.

I ended up going to a 5 core radiator instead of the original 3 and it made a huge difference. If you do go this way, they use the 195 thermostat with it.

After I did that, I could run full throttle up a long hill and still keep 240 at the top.

Of course, I also replaced all of the vacuum lines and made sure that the distributor weights were free to move and lightly oiled.
Mine wants to run at 240 when idling. If I put it in neutral and spool up the engine the needle drops to about 230 225 or so.
__________________

__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-01-2013, 06:46 PM   #44
Senior Member
 
BA-in-Mich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 472
What are the details about the radiator? Oem ? Recored? Aftermarket? Also does this have a butterfly heat riser?
__________________

__________________
1990 28' Georgie Boy, 454, 4bbl, Thorley Headers, Recurved Distributor, 8.75 mpg. RVM 76
BA-in-Mich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 07:05 PM   #45
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich View Post
What are the details about the radiator? Oem ? Recored? Aftermarket? Also does this have a butterfly heat riser?
Not sure what a butterfly heat riser is????? Radiator wAs recored. I didn't replace the ac condenser. It's the only old part I put back on. It didn't look clogged but I suppose it could be. Hmmmmmm. Wonder if I should take it off and take a drive and see how that works.
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 07:42 PM   #46
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 248
Who did the recore? It certainly should not be getting that hot at idle - I suspect either a faulty water pump, an internally collapsed hose or a faulty radiator.

Timing and mixture will not be the cause of overheating at idle - they come into effect under load - the engine is generating the least amount of heat at idle and the fact that when you rev it, the engine fan is pulling 4000cfm of air through the radiator and getting the temps under control points at the radiator as being the primary problem.

To check the head gaskets, if you top the radiator up and then put the cap on, warm the engine up (not hot) and then carefully remove the cap, do you see bubbles or significant loss of coolant?

If you can afford it, I can't recommend a 5 core rad enough - it will fix the issue once and for all - mine cost me $500 cash.
__________________
steveclv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 06:27 AM   #47
Senior Member
 
BA-in-Mich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 472
I can't remember if that is old enough to be old school but they use to have a bi-metal coiled valve on the drivers side manifold it used to block off some of the flow to heat the engine up quicker. What would eventually happen is it would freeze in a closed position and would overheat the motor. Also did they recore the radiator to the same thing that you had? Mine was originally a 4 core with 3/8" tubes. When I had it recored they kept it 4 core but used 5/8" tubes. With a 180 degree stat, that's where mine runs all the time now. Another thought what about clogged mufflers and or cat converters if you have them. I know some people in the past have had that issue. If it's getting hot at idle, remove the mufflers and cat converters if you got them and idle away and see what happens.
__________________
1990 28' Georgie Boy, 454, 4bbl, Thorley Headers, Recurved Distributor, 8.75 mpg. RVM 76
BA-in-Mich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #48
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich View Post
I can't remember if that is old enough to be old school but they use to have a bi-metal coiled valve on the drivers side manifold it used to block off some of the flow to heat the engine up quicker. What would eventually happen is it would freeze in a closed position and would overheat the motor. Also did they recore the radiator to the same thing that you had? Mine was originally a 4 core with 3/8" tubes. When I had it recored they kept it 4 core but used 5/8" tubes. With a 180 degree stat, that's where mine runs all the time now. Another thought what about clogged mufflers and or cat converters if you have them. I know some people in the past have had that issue. If it's getting hot at idle, remove the mufflers and cat converters if you got them and idle away and see what happens.
Not sure but I think mine has this bimetal coil on it. There's something on the drivers side manifold that I can't identify. I'll post pics in a lil' while. They recored to original specs, which I would think should be good enough being that it came from the factory that way. I'm not Pulling a trailer or anything. I've been thinking about the clogged exhaust thing. Gonna peruse that one today. If it doesn't rain on me.
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 08:49 AM   #49
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Today's updates ! I installed a 180 deg thermostat, put antifreeze in, put fan shroud on and all that made no change. Took it on a 20 mile trip. While running on two lane at about 45 or 50 mph my temp was about 220 225. Made the turn to get on the highway. Had to wait at a red-light to make the turn and it warmed up to 230deg. Got on the highway and ran up to 60 mph. It hung in there at about 230deg. Ran it up to 65-68 mph and it warmed up to about 235-237deg. I could then slow down to 55 and it would cool back down to 228-230deg. Exited the highway and got stopped at light where it heated back up to about 238-240 deg. After creeping along through traffic ( with the fan engaged) it cooled down to about 225 till I pulled into the driveway. I let it idle till it got to 235-238 deg. When I shut it off the needle spiked up to 250-255 deg. Something weird going in here. This thing behaves like nothing Ive seen before.
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 11:29 AM   #50
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Today's idling temp. I removed the ac condenser. I think my radiator recore just wasn't done correctly. Condenser didn't seem to be blocked. At 65mph it ran at 128-130 deg. Is this safe ? Do I still have a problem.

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3401845706.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	447.4 KB
ID:	40012
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 11:30 AM   #51
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarog View Post
Today's idling temp. I removed the ac condenser. I think my radiator recore just wasn't done correctly. Condenser didn't seem to be blocked. At 65mph it ran at 128-130 deg. Is this safe ? Do I still have a problem.
Sorry. I meant 228- 230 deg.
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 11:40 AM   #52
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 248
I agree that the radiator is where your problem lies.
230 isn't going to hurt the engine at all - I am just worried that you do not have enough cooling capacity in reserve. You need a steep hill or two to really test it.

I always believed (and read) that the original spec rad was marginal at best, even when everything was brand new.
__________________
steveclv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 11:59 AM   #53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Something I've been pondering. This is an aftermarket temp gauge. How much should I trust it? This morning I fired it up and at idle speed. Temp gauge reading. 162. I crawled all over it with an IR thermometer. It was 135 @ the thermostat housing. About 140 where the return comes out of the water pump. The intake was at about 160 degrees. Where should I be checking temp?
This brought me to the conclusion that the radiator wasn't getting enough air flow. If the temp going into the engine is the same as that coming out then something is wrong. I the. Removed the ac condenser coil and headed in down the road. The results are in the previous post.
So the intake was the same temp As what the gauge was reading. Is that correct?
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 12:56 PM   #54
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarog View Post
Something I've been pondering. This is an aftermarket temp gauge. How much should I trust it? This morning I fired it up and at idle speed. Temp gauge reading. 162. I crawled all over it with an IR thermometer. It was 135 @ the thermostat housing. About 140 where the return comes out of the water pump. The intake was at about 160 degrees. Where should I be checking temp?
This brought me to the conclusion that the radiator wasn't getting enough air flow. If the temp going into the engine is the same as that coming out then something is wrong. I the. Removed the ac condenser coil and headed in down the road. The results are in the previous post.
So the intake was the same temp As what the gauge was reading. Is that correct?
Here is a question, in the morning before you start the engine what temp does the gauge read?
That's a nice looking modern gauge perhaps it is faulty and giving incorrect info on the road. Do you have another gauge laying around to do a comparison?
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 02:52 PM   #55
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VillaRica, GA
Posts: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Here is a question, in the morning before you start the engine what temp does the gauge read?
That's a nice looking modern gauge perhaps it is faulty and giving incorrect info on the road. Do you have another gauge laying around to do a comparison?
It always reads zero before you start the engine. One time I saw it go up to 160 then jump to 180. As if it had gotten stuck. I need to check the sending unit.
__________________
Jarog
1986 Itasca sunflyer, chevy 454 p-30 chasis
Jarog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 02:56 PM   #56
Senior Member
 
Brockx's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Punta Gorda FL.
Posts: 2,631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarog View Post
It always reads zero before you start the engine. One time I saw it go up to 160 then jump to 180. As if it had gotten stuck. I need to check the sending unit.

When you turn the key on without starting, I would think it should read ambient this assumes it is electrical. If it is a mechanical (fluid) it should always read ambient.
__________________

__________________
2008 Bounder 38P F53 24/30K V10, 2013 Kia Soul Basic 6 speed manual, Ready Brake Elite tow system (previous equipment 1996 Pace Arrow Vision w/Acme Dolly)
Brockx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.