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Old 06-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #57
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When you turn the key on without starting, I would think it should read ambient this assumes it is electrical. If it is a mechanical (fluid) it should always read ambient.
The gauge doesn't read below 100deg. So I'm not sure which way it reads.
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:19 PM   #58
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Much over 220 is not that good for a older BBC. I think your problem is low flow, I have a SBC that would always heat up in traffic, and a lot on the interstate even with a 2400 CFM fan. I chased it for years, put a huge all aluminum racing radiator finnaly bought a flowkooler (FlowKooler Hi Flow Water Pumps) water pump, now it never goes over 190 (running a 160 stat) with a/c on and in traffic or on the highway.

When I was growing up we had a 1982 Allegro 28' with a 454, and it never got over 200, and we ran 75 MPH so I highly doubt speed had anything to do with it.

A few other causes could be, missing air dam (normaly under rad), excessive scale/crud in the cooling passages inside the engine, loose/slipping belt, bad fan clutch, bent/deformed fan blades, weak fan motor (if electric). Sorry if I repeated something you already done or someone mentioned, and I hope I didn't leave out something that I think you have already done
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:21 PM   #59
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The gauge doesn't read below 100deg. So I'm not sure which way it reads.

Does a wire run from the sender to the gauge or a small diameter tube?
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:27 PM   #60
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Before spending a bunch more running down things, a new temp. gauge is only about $20 at AutoZone or Advantage. You could do a quick install and just duct tape it to the hood and take a drive. If it still reads as high as you've reported, I'd investigate the butterfly valve in the manifold and/or cat converter and muffler.
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:06 PM   #61
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Do you have the original gauge in it? and if so where is it reading. I found 1/2 up the gauge is about 230-240 degrees. Mine runs at 1/4 way up the gauge which is around 180 degrees.
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:23 PM   #62
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Before spending a bunch more running down things, a new temp. gauge is only about $20 at AutoZone or Advantage. You could do a quick install and just duct tape it to the hood and take a drive. If it still reads as high as you've reported, I'd investigate the butterfly valve in the manifold and/or cat converter and muffler.
If you go the new gauge route look for one that starts well below 100 so you can actually read the ambient temp before you start the motor.
The water temp sender in the intake manifold and the gauge should both be on the same page. I discovered that a few years ago working on a 68 mustang, I had no idea the senders had diff calibrations, ours always read low, changed the sender and it read correctly.
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:54 PM   #63
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My son had a 350 chevy that he took the thermstat out of and it ran hot, he put a 185 in it and it went normal. I have no idea why, but I was there when he did it .
Well stated, if you remove a thermostat (or forget to put it in) the water does not have enough time in the radiator to dissipate the heat.
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:09 PM   #64
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I chased it for years, put a huge all aluminum racing radiator finnaly bought a flowkooler (FlowKooler Hi Flow Water Pumps) water pump, now it never goes over 190 (running a 160 stat) with a/c on and in traffic or on the highway.
I wouldn't do anything that increases flow, the water is already not allowed enough time to dissipate the heat properly. Speeding the waters flow up will increase the problem. I also had a overheating issue with a Jeep Cherokee and tried a Flow Cooler water pump and it made my problems worst. Changed the radiator and everything was fine. My 1984 Winnebago Chieftain has a 454 BBC and I run between 180-190 degrees. Once it got up to 210 doing 55mph towing a 2600lb. towed going up a 8 % grade. My in-laws have 1986 Itasca Windcruiser also with a 454 BBC and theirs runs around 180-190 degrees. The hottest theirs has got was around 220 degrees.
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:21 PM   #65
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I read in a previous post that you have an infrared temp gun. Check the temp on the inlet hose to the radiator and the outlet hose from the radiator and compare temps. If the radiator is doing it's job then there should be a dramatic difference.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:43 PM   #66
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Inquiring minds would like to know, Did you find the problem?
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:31 AM   #67
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Inquiring minds would like to know, Did you find the problem?
I still haven't found the problem, however, last night I had a mechanic friend come over and do a compression check, and a pressure check on it. Everything checked out Good. Still looking!!! Thinking noe I might have a blocked intake??????
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:36 AM   #68
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O.K. to review I have tried the following:
Make sure hoses aren't sucking flat
make sure I have no vacuum leaks
Made sure thermostat is working (it is new) 160deg
new radiator
new water pump
new fan clutch, fan stops turning after motor warms up. Shouldn't the fan engage as the motor warms up? If I understand there is fluid inside that should get thicker when heated causing the fan to engage at higher temps
I burped it! LOL!!
Checked for head gasket leaking; its not
removed ac condenser coil for better air flow, helped some but not much
made sure the weights in the distributor were freely moving
checked for blocked exhaust ; I just tried to tell if what's coming out of the tail pipe was the same on both sides, it seems to be.

I can see that the bypass hose is looking a little kinked. Just a little!!! but I don't think it could have anything to do with my problem. (I don't think)

Im now wondering if my radiator re-core was done properly and to the right specs.
also wondering if fan is turning like it should.
electric fans are ruinning all the time. wired them to the switch
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:15 AM   #69
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The engine fan should come on around 200F when you are running down the road - the hot air from the radiator causes a bi-metal strip to move engaging the fan - it should ROAR like a lion if it's working, you can't mistake the noise.

They have been known to fail and I have never had one that completely stops - they run at like half engine speed normally and then lock up to run at full engine speed when the temps start to rise above normal.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:55 AM   #70
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Just a heads up you can not check for restricted exhaust by how much is blowing on your hand.
At this stage and all stages so far you are just throwing parts on it. You would be better off taking it to a professional and getting it properly diagnosed. Just my .00002
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