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Old 05-26-2015, 05:41 AM   #127
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Now comes the fun part, getting the glue residue off.
Frank
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:42 AM   #128
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You saw through my ruse--thats not gray striping?!?


Home Depot has Goof Off in 1gal containers for $20, or is there any better remedy?

I am hoping to not use WD-40, as I'd have concerns using a lubricant under my later paint job, but I will if I have to.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:30 AM   #129
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I think that you'll find that GoofOff is probably a petroleum product too...
I'd try WD40 and then wash iy off with Simple-Green myself...

On a similar subject, I'm trying a test patch if paint on one of my decals now.. Want to change out the Blue and putting Bronze over the top of it... It's been on a couple weeks so far and I will be scrubbing it and hitting it with a high pressure water nozzel.. If it holds up, I will paint all the blue decals..
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:42 AM   #130
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MT, go to a body shop supply, when we had the body shop they make a chemical that takes off the glue residue. Also the strips ect. its made to be able to paint over so shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:55 AM   #131
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MT,
Terry has good advice, I used the goof off on my front cap decals, will have to use a degreaser on it before painting, but will have to anyways due to the wax that is on there.
Frank
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:10 AM   #132
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MT, go to a body shop supply, when we had the body shop they make a chemical that takes off the glue residue. Also the strips ect. its made to be able to paint over so shouldn't be a problem.
I called my buddy at the sign shop this morning and this was his recommendation:
Amazon.com: RAPID REMOVER Adhesive Remover for Vinyl Wraps Graphics Decals Stripes 32oz Sprayer: Automotive



Forgot to add my weekend entertainment:


I got off of an incredible 8 days on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River on Friday night about 10:00pm. My 3 girls had the MH loaded and ready to go camping. Slept in my own bed for the first time in 9 nights, then woke up to go camping.


We got out of the driveway and the transmission wasn't shifting right. It was OK in 1 and 2, but wasn't engaging in D. It would shift if I held the handle between D and 2. I stopped just outside town and had my wifey shift the column while I shifted the trans and adjusted the linkage.


Went to start it and it wouldn't start. I jumped the solenoid at the starter and it fired right up. So..not battery, not main conductor. I killed it and jumped the starter solenoid under the hood. Started right up. I elected not to fix it since I could still start it by popping the hood.

Had my tools in my pickup from the river trip, so we decided to head back to the house to grab the tool bags.


Made it to the same spot about 5 miles out of town and smelled something hot. The right front caliper was sticking after I changed the pads last week. Pulled over and banged on the caliper, but it wouldn't consistently release. Headed back into town, bought a new caliper, and headed home. Had it changed and rebled in about 30min.


I spent a bit of time in camp diagnosing the starting issue. It's either the neutral safety switch (which I assume might be the culprit since I had been messing with the shifter...but was new with the trans only 8,000mi ago), or the ignition module (which does click when I rotate to start on the ignition switch). I bypassed the ignition module with a wire from the start contact on the ignition switch to the trigger on the starter solenoid, so at least it starts with the key. I need to Google the test procedures for the ignition module and NSS so I don't have to pay to replace both not knowing if either is the problem!
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:02 PM   #133
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Ahhh, the never ending saga of the RV lifestyle.But just think, all this stuff would be happening in your daily driver or the S&B just on a different scale, so smile, and sit back and enjoy the ride.(after you fix the problems, of course)
Frank
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:46 PM   #134
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I had opened my fat mouth and told my better half that I enjoyed the challenges of working on this rig. Really no more complex (or actually less complex, electrically) than my old 4Runner.

After stop #2, she said that I might be enjoying these challenges but she wasn't. I asked her if she wanted to go home and pack up the tent. She didn't.


I'm more baffled why the linkage was out of adjustment in the first place. Whattheheck
...and the trans was rebuilt before I bought it and then the rig went on two 2,000+ mile road trips to Utah and over to Idaho 3 times...and only stopped working in my driveway.

OK, I did pull apart the dash to jump the resistor when I converted to an actual oil pressure sender instead of the on/off switch...but there's no adjustment inside.



I do love Google, though:

Faulty Neutral Safety Switch? - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

See lower right--with my handy-dandy-paid-for-itself-1000x-over $6 HF multimeter, I already found out that:
White/Pink was the wire coming out of the Start terminal of the Starter switch
Red/blue was the wire into the Ign solenoid/relay

It shouldn't be the Ign module at all.

If I jump those two and it starts with the key, then I KNOW it's the "Range Selection Switch"...and can then try adjusting it..or replace. $38 on eBay.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:51 AM   #135
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This is a common problem on Fords.. I've known a number of them where you had to lift the shifter further up into the PARK position to get the switch to work - or just drop it down into neutral..

Have you tried putting it into neutral or rotating the shifte a little higher (counter clockwise) ??
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:33 AM   #136
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Glue Residue, Coconut Oil!
Rub it in and let it soak in a few hours in the sun.
Then scrape off.

Virgin Coconut Oil on your face and hands will do wonders too!
Will make you look younger if used once a day.
Softens skin better than any Petro Based Oil I've found!

Don't tell anyone, it will kill the Makeup Industry.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:30 AM   #137
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Thanks Randy. I did try rolling the column shifter through all 5 positions while holding the key forward, and still no start. I'll try jumping the pins below as well. I'd prefer to get it working "right".


Nice, Curtis. I'll have to try that. The Goof Off isn't working too badly. I put it in a spray bottle, scraped 95% of the residue off with a hard plastic kitchen scraper, and the remaining 5% with another spray and a wipe with a rag.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:36 AM   #138
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Quote:
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This is a common problem on Fords.. I've known a number of them where you had to lift the shifter further up into the PARK position to get the switch to work - or just drop it down into neutral..

Have you tried putting it into neutral or rotating the shifte a little higher (counter clockwise) ??
It was the MLPS.

I unplugged it and jumped the start terminals (R/LB and W/PK) and got it to start.

I couldn't get the new MLPS and the old one to show the same ohmmeter readings in the same positions in the parts store so the old one was suspect...nor could I get the new MLPS to show a 0-ohm connection on the same two pins. I took it home anyway.

Bolted it in and it still wouldn't start.

Pulled it back off and held the ohmmeter on pins 5 and 8 and found that the Neutral reference line was about 1/16" off. I left it in that position and bolted it up. MH starts in P and N, but no other gears.

Had a $50 core deposit for my stuck caliper, so after the $47 MLPS, I got $3 back!


Le wifey: "Why were you working on the camper? I thought you fixed it in camp."
Me: "Um...just wanted to make sure it's 100% perfect."
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:45 PM   #139
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MT,
Glad that you got it fixed.
Frank
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:15 AM   #140
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Scraping goo
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