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Old 06-27-2013, 09:54 PM   #155
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http://www.walkerproducts.com/wp-con...del/holley.pdf

4180 starts on PDF page 33. Drawing on pdf page 34. Choke pulloff shown on lower left corner.

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Old 06-28-2013, 06:34 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
http://www.walkerproducts.com/wp-con...del/holley.pdf

4180 starts on PDF page 33. Drawing on pdf page 34. Choke pulloff shown on lower left corner.

Dave
Got it thanks, The diaphragm assembly shaft of the choke pull off is where I had the issue, too bad there is not a drawing of how the spring and two diff plated spacers are actually assembled to the shaft of the diaphragm. I think I put it together correctly, when a suction is applied to the diaphragm it pulls up on the shaft and the spring and spacers move the choke to open, I cannot figure where the suction is applied to test it. Sure would like to an see an actual blow up of that complete diaphragm assembly
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:46 AM   #157
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Vacuum for the choke pull off diaphragm comes from the same vacuum source as what goes through the choke body which comes directly from the carburetor body. When you install the choke body you have a small cork gasket that seals the choke body vacuum port through the carburetor vacuum source. Same vacuum is used for the pull off.

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Old 06-28-2013, 02:07 PM   #158
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Got it thanks, The diaphragm assembly shaft of the choke pull off is where I had the issue, too bad there is not a drawing of how the spring and two diff plated spacers are actually assembled to the shaft of the diaphragm. I think I put it together correctly, when a suction is applied to the diaphragm it pulls up on the shaft and the spring and spacers move the choke to open, I cannot figure where the suction is applied to test it. Sure would like to an see an actual blow up of that complete diaphragm assembly
I assembled it the way I think it looks in that picture and installed it.
The next and last issues were the idle adjustment valves
themselves, One took four turns in to seat, the other was not screwed in at all, it was stuck by it's own O ring and was springing in and out, I had to push it in against the spring pressure to get it to screw in, then it took a full 6 turns to seat. They are different valves then in the drawings, they have 3/32 hex head, with a separate groove for the O ring seal.

One of them took my wife and I almost a hour to pull it out, it was stuck in by the old O ring. Both were all rusty, cruddy and black. I have cleaned them all up and just have to clean out the carb area where they get screwed into, Once that is done I will set them both at three turns out and go from there and re-install the carb .
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:12 PM   #159
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Only 1.5 turns from seat.

Set rpm first, let warm up.

Place vacuum guage on manifold.

Adjust each idle screw to highest reading.

Then lower idle.speed to slowest smooth idle and repeat, best vacuum.

Then set rpm to correct speed.

Next is to test your carb.

By hand slowly increase throttle from idle to about 1500 rpm, slowly...

This will allow the different metering jets to work.

If there are flat or rough spots you are not done.

When this is good then same thing on road.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:28 AM   #160
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Only 1.5 turns from seat.

Set rpm first, let warm up.

Place vacuum guage on manifold.

Adjust each idle screw to highest reading.

Then lower idle.speed to slowest smooth idle and repeat, best vacuum.

Then set rpm to correct speed.

Next is to test your carb.

By hand slowly increase throttle from idle to about 1500 rpm, slowly...

This will allow the different metering jets to work.

If there are flat or rough spots you are not done.

When this is good then same thing on road.
When I first took the carb apart, one of the needle valves was unscrewed all the way and held in by the O ring, the other was four turns out. The rebuild kit instructions said on dis-assembly to count the turns in to a light stop and on re-assmebly set then the same. Thinking I was smart and forgetting the fact that all my life every carb I ever knew the initial set was 1 1/2 turns out, I set them both at 3 turns.

Once installed it started right away and ran at hi idle and then when it warmed a bit and it went to low idle the motor shuddered and stopped. I looked at the Holley website and sure enough they had a video that said as you did, always start at 1 1/2 turns out.

Of course on my carb the valves are all but impossible to get at with the carb installed, and they are 3/32 hex heads to boot.

I am off soon to Northern Tool, they have a flexible 12 long screwdriver carb adjusting kit with an assortment of tips, one of which is advertised as 3/32. Will keep you posted. The fact that it ran is very encouraging.
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:39 PM   #161
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When I first took the carb apart, one of the needle valves was unscrewed all the way and held in by the O ring, the other was four turns out. The rebuild kit instructions said on dis-assembly to count the turns in to a light stop and on re-assmebly set then the same. Thinking I was smart and forgetting the fact that all my life every carb I ever knew the initial set was 1 1/2 turns out, I set them both at 3 turns.

Once installed it started right away and ran at hi idle and then when it warmed a bit and it went to low idle the motor shuddered and stopped. I looked at the Holley website and sure enough they had a video that said as you did, always start at 1 1/2 turns out.

Of course on my carb the valves are all but impossible to get at with the carb installed, and they are 3/32 hex heads to boot.

I am off soon to Northern Tool, they have a flexible 12 long screwdriver carb adjusting kit with an assortment of tips, one of which is advertised as 3/32. Will keep you posted. The fact that it ran is very encouraging.
Got the special tool at Northern, cannot get it in here, just no room, so here is what we did. The wife and I lifted the carb off the mount screws with all the lines attached and tilted it just enough so I could get to the adjusting screws with my small allen wrench. Rran them both in to the stops and then backed them out 1 1/2 turns. dropped the carb back on and bolted it down. Started the engine and it ran Good, both hi idle and low idle, we watched as the choke opened itself up. so I got that right.
Put on a vac gauge and the vac is just outa the green arc, I know it could be better, but there is just no way to adjust the carb with the motor running. it is running real smooth now, even when we rev it up, I don't have a tach so I do not know how many revs I got it to but I am guessing around half throttle , it is running really nice now, I am thinking to leave well enough alone and drive it around a bit and see how she goes, waddayathink gang????

I cannot thank you enough for all the help and advice I have gotten here
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:45 PM   #162
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Got the special tool at Northern, cannot get it in here, just no room, so here is what we did. The wife and I lifted the carb off the mount screws with all the lines attached and tilted it just enough so I could get to the adjusting screws with my small allen wrench. Rran them both in to the stops and then backed them out 1 1/2 turns. dropped the carb back on and bolted it down. Started the engine and it ran Good, both hi idle and low idle, we watched as the choke opened itself up. so I got that right.
Put on a vac gauge and the vac is just outa the green arc, I know it could be better, but there is just no way to adjust the carb with the motor running. it is running real smooth now, even when we rev it up, I don't have a tach so I do not know how many revs I got it to but I am guessing around half throttle , it is running really nice now, I am thinking to leave well enough alone and drive it around a bit and see how she goes, waddayathink gang????

I cannot thank you enough for all the help and advice I have gotten here
Due to it is running good (idling) , leave the idle screws be,,, when going down the road they serve no purpose.. Very glad you got it running right !!!! And yes, next is a short road trip. I guess it starts back up when warmed up ok ?
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #163
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Fuel line...

Get some small tubing that will fit snug on the adjusters and is stiff enough to allow adjustment, test before mounting.

Needs to be correct to avoid fowling plugs or valves, you idle more than you think.

Too lean burns things, too rich wastes gas and adds carbon meaning shorter plug life and you do not want to change those anytime soon!
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:36 PM   #164
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Fuel line...

Get some small tubing that will fit snug on the adjusters and is stiff enough to allow adjustment, test before mounting.

Needs to be correct to avoid fowling plugs or valves, you idle more than you think.

Too lean burns things, too rich wastes gas and adds carbon meaning shorter plug life and you do not want to change those anytime soon!
Cannot do that, the adjusters are in a recess and can only be accessed with a 3/32 allen type hex wrench.
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #165
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Cannot do that, the adjusters are in a recess and can only be accessed with a 3/32 allen type hex wrench.
Would it be possible to use JB weld and a short piece of a allen wrench to provide an extension so you can get to it ???
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:49 PM   #166
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Like Monkey said, leave them be. You are miles farther than when you started.

Dave
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:06 PM   #167
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Like Monkey said, leave them be. You are miles farther than when you started.

Dave
We have come a long way and found some interesting things wrong which have been righted, now I have a smooth running motor, will get it on the road in the next day or two and let you know how things worked out.

Be nice to get back to figuring out what is wrong with the Genny
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:46 PM   #168
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During your test drive, if you get stumbling when stepping on gas leaving a stop your rich, close idle screws 1/8 turn. If you get backfire or hesitation at accel from stoplight you are lean, open needles 1/4 turn and you should be drivable. Congrats on getting to run good!
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