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Old 05-30-2013, 03:05 PM   #15
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If memeory serves me correctly you have downloaded the 89 service manual to use for your JD Chassis. Turn to pdf page 70 (20-05-12) and look at the portion for steps 19-20. That view is on the rear of the intake. You can see a light grey vacuum can (flying saucer like thing) with a hose attached to it (If the line for the A key symbol were extended straight on out to the left it would go through the valve.). That should be your EGR valve. You can also see it in step 18 (between and directly above the A and B key symbols).

Dave
Looks like the big contraption on the fwd right side on my engine with all kinds of lines and hoses below it.

The last one I ever saw was on my old 280ZX and we tested it by sucking on the vacuum hose attached to the bellows thing to see if the diaphragm was torn, if so it ran rough
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:41 PM   #16
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Looks like the big contraption on the fwd right side on my engine with all kinds of lines and hoses below it.

The last one I ever saw was on my old 280ZX and we tested it by sucking on the vacuum hose attached to the bellows thing to see if the diaphragm was torn, if so it ran rough
Is this the egr valve?
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:47 PM   #17
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I do not believe so. That looks like something for the AIR pump. Pull back out a bit and take a few more pics of the engine. Rear, front, both sides.
I will be off line awhile. Time to head home from work. I bet one of those hoses coming off that yellow thingy is associated with the EGR though.

Dave
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:28 PM   #18
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I do not believe so. That looks like something for the AIR pump. Pull back out a bit and take a few more pics of the engine. Rear, front, both sides.
I will be off line awhile. Time to head home from work. I bet one of those hoses coming off that yellow thingy is associated with the EGR though.

Dave
here ya go, I am amazed at how you can remember what I downloaded so long ago
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:59 PM   #19
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nuff said

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Old 05-30-2013, 06:33 PM   #20
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Plug wires can look like new and be shot.

Spark voltage at idle only about 5K, but higher loads require higher voltage, bad wires prevent current flow required and the cyl does not fire.

You can get an extra plug, remove wire from plug and connect to spare, then rest on engine and start.

Bad wire will be obvious.

If over a few years old then just replace all secondary parts and call it a day
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:31 PM   #21
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to get around the emissions era carb I sent mine to national carburetor in Jacksonville Florida, they did a full rebuild re-calibrated for e-10 fuel and set it up for four corner idle looks great runs great after I removed the old filter in the fuel inlet and put the right spring in the secondary vacuum control.
some way they missed the fact it was going on a class c rv and put a light spring in that caused a flooding condition . but all is good now will set and idle very smoothly even running the dash air has excellent throttle response
cold and hot starts are just like new and only ran $215 so not a bad price
combine that with a rebuilt distributor and setting to 1978 specs i'm very happy with it
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:30 AM   #22
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Plug wires can look like new and be shot.

Spark voltage at idle only about 5K, but higher loads require higher voltage, bad wires prevent current flow required and the cyl does not fire.

You can get an extra plug, remove wire from plug and connect to spare, then rest on engine and start.

Bad wire will be obvious.

If over a few years old then just replace all secondary parts and call it a day
I fired up the motor this morning and did a search for a leaking or open vacuum line, did find one, under, but not connected to the EGR, repaired it, but that did not help, took a good hard look and found, so far, 13 diff sources of vacuum on the intake manifold, there is even one from the top of each carb bowl.
I did notice and you can see in the picture that three plug wires on the left side of the engine run back and thru the plug wire loom on top of the valve cover to the plugs, one appears jammed under the emissions metal tubing and all the wires to the plugs on the right side are run under the steel tubing and all appear to be tightly jammed there, the loom for them on the valve cover is empty, gonna wait for it to cool down and loosen all the wires and arrainge them to what I think is their proper place and then check the wires one by one by lifting them out of the distributer cap with the motor running to see if one or more affects the engine smoothness.

Not raining yet, but the weather gal promises morelater this AM, got the front coach ac running on shore power to cool it off inside so I can play with the plug wires in comfort.
BTW after studying that egr very closely I can only see it bolted to the rear of the intake manifold with one vac line and I cannot see any connection to the exhaust manifold at all. I do plan to remove that and clean it up and if the valve does work properly I will replace it
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:13 AM   #23
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EGR - There are exhaust passages in the intake to support the EGR function. At idle, the EGR provides the ability to mix some of the exhaust gas back in with the intake mixture. This results in a reduction of Oxides of Nitrogen (NoX). So, if the EGR valve is sticking partially open due to carbon build up, it acts as a vacuum leak. It should only be open at idle AFTER the engine warms up. That's why I said a hose from that that yellow valve (engine temp controlled valve) in your first picture most likely leads back to your EGR valve.

Dave
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:26 AM   #24
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EGR - There are exhaust passages in the intake to support the EGR function. At idle, the EGR provides the ability to mix some of the exhaust gas back in with the intake mixture. This results in a reduction of Oxides of Nitrogen (NoX). So, if the EGR valve is sticking partially open due to carbon build up, it acts as a vacuum leak. It should only be open at idle AFTER the engine warms up. That's why I said a hose from that that yellow valve (engine temp controlled valve) in your first picture most likely leads back to your EGR valve.

Dave
I have located the egr, yea for me, but first I wanted to reroute all those plug wires that were jammed under the emissions pipes,. no small job, but I got em free and the wires for plugs 1,2, and 5 were all about 3-4 inches too short and the wires for 4 and 8 are about a foot or more too long. There is a loom to route the wires thru on top of each valve cover but only 1 wire went thru it on the right side and three thru the one on the left side, it looked all micky mouse to me, I guess NAPA is probably the best place to get quality parts to replace the cap rotor and wires.
Found a small piece of rubber tube, gonna do a mouth to egr connection to see if the diaphagm is broken and if the valve actually moves.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:04 PM   #25
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I have located the egr, yea for me, but first I wanted to reroute all those plug wires that were jammed under the emissions pipes,. no small job, but I got em free and the wires for plugs 1,2, and 5 were all about 3-4 inches too short and the wires for 4 and 8 are about a foot or more too long. There is a loom to route the wires thru on top of each valve cover but only 1 wire went thru it on the right side and three thru the one on the left side, it looked all micky mouse to me, I guess NAPA is probably the best place to get quality parts to replace the cap rotor and wires.
Found a small piece of rubber tube, gonna do a mouth to egr connection to see if the diaphagm is broken and if the valve actually moves.
Did the mouth to mouth on the egr, no suction leaks and I can see the plunger going in as I sucked on the tube and it snapped back when I released the suction, there is at least 3 other vacuum diaphragm operated things, I will check them out too.
I traced the vac hose from the EGR back to that yellow thingy and it was not connected there but I did find another vacuum manifold thingy below the yellow one and it is connected there and that thingy has what appears to be an electrical sensor at one end, sorta like an oil pressure or water temp sender.
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:01 PM   #26
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As you know, JD points you to the Ford manual for anything engine related. So, thats where you would have to go to get engine details. I do know the cylinders on either side and the big valve thing with the hoses (diverter I think) at the right rear are for the AIR system.

New plug wires would be a good idea

For all of your engine related questions, I recommend you at least start with a Ford Haynes manual: Do It Yourself (DIY) Repair Manual from Haynes. At $20 that should answer a lot of you engine questions. You would focus in on a 90 or 91 F-350 with a 460

If you need more then you will have to migrate to a Ford Light Truck Service manual however this is the year range where Ford was migrating from Carb to EFI so you have to be careful about what book you purchase. I know you have listed it as a 91 JD chassis but it might be a 90.

Dave
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:23 PM   #27
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As you know, JD points you to the Ford manual for anything engine related. So, thats where you would have to go to get engine details. I do know the cylinders on either side and the big valve thing with the hoses (diverter I think) at the right rear are for the AIR system.

New plug wires would be a good idea

For all of your engine related questions, I recommend you at least start with a Ford Haynes manual: Do It Yourself (DIY) Repair Manual from Haynes. At $20 that should answer a lot of you engine questions. You would focus in on a 90 or 91 F-350 with a 460

If you need more then you will have to migrate to a Ford Light Truck Service manual however this is the year range where Ford was migrating from Carb to EFI so you have to be careful about what book you purchase. I know you have listed it as a 91 JD chassis but it might be a 90.

Dave
Went to NAPA they had a deal on a new set of original equip motorcraft Plug wires for 23.00 while there I ordered a new cap and rotor, I brought old rotor with me and they told me it was the old style distributer I had, I will pick it all tomorrow morning, they suggested that I ref it as a1991 F-350 Econoline Club Wagon for future purchases
The whole air system is inop, both pumps are NG and the charcoal cannisters are removed
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:30 PM   #28
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At least you will be able to refer to something for parts and more easily that way. The JD Chassis is not well known.

Dave
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