Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-01-2013, 02:54 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
At least you will be able to refer to something for parts and more easily that way. The JD Chassis is not well known.

Dave
Still running rough, We now have a new distributer cap, a new rotor, new wires, and the plugs were changed 6 months ago and I have not used the RV yet except to drive it around the block a few times, I cannot find any vacuum leaks and the egr valve moves up and down. We have checked and rechecked and then rechecked again the fireing order and plug wire routing to make sure no wires are crossed. What could it be???
__________________

__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-01-2013, 04:08 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Still running rough, We now have a new distributer cap, a new rotor, new wires, and the plugs were changed 6 months ago and I have not used the RV yet except to drive it around the block a few times, I cannot find any vacuum leaks and the egr valve moves up and down. We have checked and rechecked and then rechecked again the fireing order and plug wire routing to make sure no wires are crossed. What could it be???
Excuse me for a possible silly question,,, but how long has it been sitting ? I mean without running a tank or two of fuel through it ? This Crap alcohol gas sucks water like crazy..... Have you tried a product like 'HEAT" or such to remove water from the gas ? I know you said a couple plugs were wet,,, next thing after replacing the ignition parts like you have done, would be a compression test... Leaking valves/piston rings won't allow enough compression to fire the cylinder,,, especially if the same cylinders are wetting the plugs...
Monkey
__________________

__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
monkey is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2013, 12:42 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey View Post
Excuse me for a possible silly question,,, but how long has it been sitting ? I mean without running a tank or two of fuel through it ? This Crap alcohol gas sucks water like crazy..... Have you tried a product like 'HEAT" or such to remove water from the gas ? I know you said a couple plugs were wet,,, next thing after replacing the ignition parts like you have done, would be a compression test... Leaking valves/piston rings won't allow enough compression to fire the cylinder,,, especially if the same cylinders are wetting the plugs...
Monkey

It's been sitting for a while, but a month ago we finally got the tank drain plug out and drained it and I have since added about 20 gallons of hi test fuel including another 10 gal of non ethanol boat fuel just to be on the safe side. I figure the gas is around 5% corn now.

OK here is where I am at right now

Changed all but 3 plug wires, the original plug wire kit I just got from NAPA had three wires too short, changed the dist cap and rotor, this morning I pulled and cleaned the crap outa the EGR valve, it was cruddy, I reinstalled it with some RTV to make sure it sealed well. It ran better
I was sitting there with a half can of seafoam in my hand and I was thinking to decrab it when I had a brainstorm. I have a squeeze ball thing with a tube on it, so I got it and I then removed the little port on the side of the carb (the one you check for correct fuel level) I filled the ball up with seafoam, stuck the tube in the port and squeezed the seafoam in there and let it sit for 5 min and started the motor and it started rough and then began to settle down and smooth out, so I poured the rest of the seafoam down the throat of the carb and shut off the motor, let it sit another 5 min and started it up, Smoked out the whole backyard and darn if it still didn't run a little better again
Now it is running pretty good but I know it can run even smoother, guess
I will order a rebuild kit from Holley, I never did that one thing yet, This carb has no idle adjustments so assuming the engine internals are ok I am down to a gummed up carb or bad timing or something we didn't think about yet. Don't know how to time it except by ear, there is no way I can see the timing pointer much less get a timing light in there.

I was thinking to take a short video of the exhaust pipe, engine running and one of the engine itself running to show you folks, waddyathink, can you all tell anything by sounds and visuals??
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:21 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
It's been sitting for a while, but a month ago we finally got the tank drain plug out and drained it and I have since added about 20 gallons of hi test fuel including another 10 gal of non ethanol boat fuel just to be on the safe side. I figure the gas is around 5% corn now.

OK here is where I am at right now

Changed all but 3 plug wires, the original plug wire kit I just got from NAPA had three wires too short, changed the dist cap and rotor, this morning I pulled and cleaned the crap outa the EGR valve, it was cruddy, I reinstalled it with some RTV to make sure it sealed well. It ran better
I was sitting there with a half can of seafoam in my hand and I was thinking to decrab it when I had a brainstorm. I have a squeeze ball thing with a tube on it, so I got it and I then removed the little port on the side of the carb (the one you check for correct fuel level) I filled the ball up with seafoam, stuck the tube in the port and squeezed the seafoam in there and let it sit for 5 min and started the motor and it started rough and then began to settle down and smooth out, so I poured the rest of the seafoam down the throat of the carb and shut off the motor, let it sit another 5 min and started it up, Smoked out the whole backyard and darn if it still didn't run a little better again
Now it is running pretty good but I know it can run even smoother, guess
I will order a rebuild kit from Holley, I never did that one thing yet, This carb has no idle adjustments so assuming the engine internals are ok I am down to a gummed up carb or bad timing or something we didn't think about yet. Don't know how to time it except by ear, there is no way I can see the timing pointer much less get a timing light in there.

I was thinking to take a short video of the exhaust pipe, engine running and one of the engine itself running to show you folks, waddyathink, can you all tell anything by sounds and visuals??
Well, if it ran noticably better with the sea foam treatment,,, I'd say you are on the right track. Holleys are known (by me anyway) to be Very picky... In my younger days, I built/rebuilt/modified Many Holleys,, when they work right, they are ok... Best thing I ever did for my hotrod's was to switch to a BG (Barry Grant) carb. When set up right, it was bullet proof ! Started cold/hot, idled great, more power,,, everything you want out of a carb... But back to your case, I would recommend a rebuild kit for your carb, (if you are set on keeping the carb) doing a very good cleaning ! One thing to watch for on Holley's, are warped mating surfaces... It doesn't take much at all for a vacume leak. No idle mixture adjustments ??? Hmmm... I'd still recommend looking into the BG route. You would need to contact the company, (started by a Holley engineer) to get the proper carb... Don't overtighten the screws,, another way to warp the surfaces... Good luck.
__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
monkey is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 01:50 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
It's been sitting for a while, but a month ago we finally got the tank drain plug out and drained it and I have since added about 20 gallons of hi test fuel including another 10 gal of non ethanol boat fuel just to be on the safe side. I figure the gas is around 5% corn now.

OK here is where I am at right now

Changed all but 3 plug wires, the original plug wire kit I just got from NAPA had three wires too short, changed the dist cap and rotor, this morning I pulled and cleaned the crap outa the EGR valve, it was cruddy, I reinstalled it with some RTV to make sure it sealed well. It ran better
I was sitting there with a half can of seafoam in my hand and I was thinking to decrab it when I had a brainstorm. I have a squeeze ball thing with a tube on it, so I got it and I then removed the little port on the side of the carb (the one you check for correct fuel level) I filled the ball up with seafoam, stuck the tube in the port and squeezed the seafoam in there and let it sit for 5 min and started the motor and it started rough and then began to settle down and smooth out, so I poured the rest of the seafoam down the throat of the carb and shut off the motor, let it sit another 5 min and started it up, Smoked out the whole backyard and darn if it still didn't run a little better again
Now it is running pretty good but I know it can run even smoother, guess
I will order a rebuild kit from Holley, I never did that one thing yet, This carb has no idle adjustments so assuming the engine internals are ok I am down to a gummed up carb or bad timing or something we didn't think about yet. Don't know how to time it except by ear, there is no way I can see the timing pointer much less get a timing light in there.

I was thinking to take a short video of the exhaust pipe, engine running and one of the engine itself running to show you folks, waddyathink, can you all tell anything by sounds and visuals??
Got the final three wires and installed them, still seems to have a misfire, If I put my near ther exhaust pipe I can feel the popping, snorting, puffing or what ever you want to call it, it is running real good except for that slike shaking at idle and that popping of the exhaust. Is it possible that a new plug can be bad and not spark?
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 02:18 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 104
Check to make sure new plugs not cracked went installed, firing order should be cast into intake manifold, usually in front on intake port.
__________________
ltfishin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 03:01 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 104
Try unplugging every vacuum line, tape them off, ??? Next spray carb cleaner along intake while at idle, spray any vacuum connection, any type of sputter and you have found your leak!!!
__________________
ltfishin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2013, 08:36 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltfishin View Post
Try unplugging every vacuum line, tape them off, ??? Next spray carb cleaner along intake while at idle, spray any vacuum connection, any type of sputter and you have found your leak!!!
Raining out down here, storm in the gulf, RV is sitting in a puddle, cannot do much except moan and groan
So carb cleaner will make the engine stumble, gotta try that, I was gonna pull the plugs and see which one is wet and go from there, In all my life I have never had a plug go bad, it was always a cracked cap or a lead that shorted
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2013, 08:47 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
Raining out down here, storm in the gulf, RV is sitting in a puddle, cannot do much except moan and groan
So carb cleaner will make the engine stumble, gotta try that, I was gonna pull the plugs and see which one is wet and go from there, In all my life I have never had a plug go bad, it was always a cracked cap or a lead that shorted
Not sure by your statements, but if it is a dead miss on one cylinder,( or even just a bad cyl) the easy way to find it is pull one plug wire at a time, instead of pulling the spark plug. If it runs worse, put it back on, and try the next one. When it makes no or little difference , you found your cylinder and you can go from there. Just don't get shocked,,,, You of course can do this at the distributer cap if it's easier to get to .
Once you find which cylinder it is,,, you can narrow down the possibilities .
__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
monkey is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2013, 09:50 AM   #38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey View Post
Not sure by your statements, but if it is a dead miss on one cylinder,( or even just a bad cyl) the easy way to find it is pull one plug wire at a time, instead of pulling the spark plug. If it runs worse, put it back on, and try the next one. When it makes no or little difference , you found your cylinder and you can go from there. Just don't get shocked,,,, You of course can do this at the distributer cap if it's easier to get to .
Once you find which cylinder it is,,, you can narrow down the possibilities .
I know that and I did that at the dist cap, as each wire came off it ran a little worse BUT, only one did not go SNAP Snap snap (spark jumping Snap) as I went to put the wire back on the cap.
Holding my hand by the exhaust I can feel puffing or popping and the motor itself has a very small shake while it is running. I think a plug #6 or #7 is not firing properly
The V-8 in my boat, and my neighbors boat and my Jeep GC do not shake at all while running and the exhaust is a nice smooth steady flow of air, mine is not smooth or steady
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2013, 12:50 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltfishin View Post
Try unplugging every vacuum line, tape them off, ??? Next spray carb cleaner along intake while at idle, spray any vacuum connection, any type of sputter and you have found your leak!!!
That carb cleaner tip was cool, just the smallest spurt in the carb throat and the engine almost quits dead. SOOOO I sprayed that stuff on every vacuum line and every fitting I could and the engine never stumbled not even a little, That must rule out a vacuum leak? The only line or connection I cannot see is the vac advance on the distributer and I am not sure if it has a vac advance or not.
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2013, 09:43 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
monkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,250
Have you done a compression test ??? That would rule out OR narrow down a problem ....
__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
monkey is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2013, 10:33 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey View Post
Have you done a compression test ??? That would rule out OR narrow down a problem ....
No I have not done a compression test, guess when the ground dries out and we can get under there I can pull the plugs one at a time and screw in the compression tester at that time.
__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2013, 06:11 PM   #42
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
No I have not done a compression test, guess when the ground dries out and we can get under there I can pull the plugs one at a time and screw in the compression tester at that time.
I know a good test is when all the cylinders are with 10% of each other, but what should a good test show as average?
__________________

__________________
Bilito is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ford



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.