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Old 06-15-2013, 08:35 PM   #71
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I have followed everyones advice with the following results
moved the #7 and #8 leads far apart...No Change
swapped the #7 and #8 leads and it got really bad
Hand over intake, it wanted to suck my hand in and no change
I see this carb has float adjusters, I will check that both bowls have the correct level of fuel

If I remove the two air pumps and the alternator I will have access to the distributer base and then can see the timing pointer
I will order a rebuild kit from Holley when I can find the model number on the carb, I know it is on the back of the air intake but my handy dandy mirror is broken

Could the ignition coil be causing this misfiring?

All this emission junk is in the way of doing everything and according to All I have read about this type of system it is questionable if it actually reduced emissions much if at all. All it does is pump fresh air mixed with some exhaust air back into the air cleaner where it mixed with outside air and under the hood air to go thru the air filter and get re-burnt. It satisfied some regulation back in 1991
I made a mistake in the description of the operation of the emission system. The air pumps pump air thru a series of pipes, tubes and assorted sensors and valves and mix fresh air into the exhaust manifold diluting the gas and reducing emissions, it sure looks complicated
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:50 PM   #72
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"IF" it was me,,, in a non emissions (sp?) state,,, I'd pull all that Junk off, and let the nice Ford engine perform like it should....
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:10 AM   #73
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"IF" it was me,,, in a non emissions (sp?) state,,, I'd pull all that Junk off, and let the nice Ford engine perform like it should....
My Wife and I, mostly her, have decided that we are too old to keep messing around fixing up an old motorhome, and not have the fun of actually using it. So when I finally get it all sorted out, it will go up for sale for about what I have invested in it, somewhere in the neighborhood of 9-10K Almost everything in it is new, refurbished or replaced. The fridge is shot you can smell ammonia.
As I pull stuff off to get at other things I am cleaning and painting the parts.

It is really gonna be a bummer and make me down a half bottle of Cheer if after I get all this stuff out and find the timing is actually right on 8 degrees BTDC

She wants me to get a smaller Class C with a slide and a queen bed, I thinking a Prior Owned 2 or 3 years old unit that was, garage kept and used regularly
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:11 AM   #74
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Distributor is just stuck or you have not loosened the hold down clamp bolt enough. This is a picture of a EFI setup but the distributor bolt should be in the same place.


You have what is reffered to as Ford Duraspark 2 electronic ignition system.


Some possible sources of your problem are:
Ignition coil

Distributor pick-up (You can see vacuum advance can attached to the distributor in this picture).


or,
Ignition Module (get tested at an someplace like Autozone)


Description: Duraspark II -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop

Troubleshooting Information for various issues: Troubleshooting your ignition system - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

Make sure rotor is in good condition
Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked and does not exhibit carbon tracking
Make sure the distributor vacuum advance is working properly. It varies engine timing based on engine load (vacuum controlled).
I suspect there are centrifugal advance weights in the distributor below the pickup plate. They have to move freely without binding. They advance the timing based on engine RPM.

Poor performance and operation can result from any of these components breaking down.

Dave
Dave,
In reading the link you sent, (Ford V-8 engine workshop) I found that the distributer cap is in two pieces, I did not know that, it was very interesting reading, I am looking for but have not yet found the ignition module. I am about to go out and start removing the alternator and the last air pump, I can see that once they are out I will have plenty of room to mess with the distributer. Do I assume correctly that if the dist vac advance is shot I can buy just that part???
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:47 AM   #75
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Dave,
In reading the link you sent, (Ford V-8 engine workshop) I found that the distributer cap is in two pieces, I did not know that, it was very interesting reading, I am looking for but have not yet found the ignition module. I am about to go out and start removing the alternator and the last air pump, I can see that once they are out I will have plenty of room to mess with the distributer. Do I assume correctly that if the dist vac advance is shot I can buy just that part???
Got the alternator out and can plainly see the pointer and timing marks, Will secure or remove the belt, connect up a light and see what the timing is before I do anything else, just in case the mark is right on the money, right now I gotta clean up and stop sweating before I do anything. Taking lots of pics as I go just in case I forget how this all goes back together.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:30 PM   #76
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Got the alternator out and can plainly see the pointer and timing marks, Will secure or remove the belt, connect up a light and see what the timing is before I do anything else, just in case the mark is right on the money, right now I gotta clean up and stop sweating before I do anything. Taking lots of pics as I go just in case I forget how this all goes back together.
We started it up and sure enough it is around 10 degrees or more too far BTDC. Did not like being in that wheel well pointing a timing light while my wife started the motor.
Now I know I have to remove that big mounting bracket and the other Air pump to gain access to the distributer. I am cleaning and painting everything as it comes off, the factory painted everything black and you could not see anything, all pulleys are getting painted bright red, all brackets light grey and both air pumps a light blue and all metal tube will get black, When I pull the carb I will paint the intake manifold back to Ford Blue
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:36 PM   #77
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Refer to pdf page 320 [Manual page 40-30-3] of the JD manual. Item 36 is the ignition module. In the only JD chassis I have ever worked on, you accessed it from under the front hood. It was mounted to some framing on the passenger side up front. This wiring is supplied by JD so it would be the same basic place no matter who the coach mfg was.

Dave
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:41 AM   #78
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Refer to pdf page 320 [Manual page 40-30-3] of the JD manual. Item 36 is the ignition module. In the only JD chassis I have ever worked on, you accessed it from under the front hood. It was mounted to some framing on the passenger side up front. This wiring is supplied by JD so it would be the same basic place no matter who the coach mfg was.

Dave
I had an unknown thing close to the engine starter solenoid, sorta looks like the ignition module in the pictures, I will take some pics later today.

We figured the ignition was/is set around 20-25 BTDC which would explain the hesitation right after the motor started to turn each time the key was turned to start and the rough running. Both the book and a decal I found say the advance should be 8 degrees BTDC

The problem I am having now is removing that big bracket, we found the 2nd air pump and a large vacuum control assembly are both attached directly to that bracket and removing the big air hoses off the pump is turning out to be an issue.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:58 AM   #79
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Refer to pdf page 320 [Manual page 40-30-3] of the JD manual. Item 36 is the ignition module. In the only JD chassis I have ever worked on, you accessed it from under the front hood. It was mounted to some framing on the passenger side up front. This wiring is supplied by JD so it would be the same basic place no matter who the coach mfg was.

Dave
I think this is my ignition module, it is behind the starter solonoid and the voltage regulator
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:04 AM   #80
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I think this is my ignition module, it is behind the starter solonoid and the voltage regulator
OOPS wrong picture that is the VR and start solenoid
I think this is the ignition module
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:18 AM   #81
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I had an unknown thing close to the engine starter solenoid, sorta looks like the ignition module in the pictures, I will take some pics later today.

We figured the ignition was/is set around 20-25 BTDC which would explain the hesitation right after the motor started to turn each time the key was turned to start and the rough running. Both the book and a decal I found say the advance should be 8 degrees BTDC

The problem I am having now is removing that big bracket, we found the 2nd air pump and a large vacuum control assembly are both attached directly to that bracket and removing the big air hoses off the pump is turning out to be an issue.
We got the second air pump and that large bracket out, loosened the distributor hold down bolt but could not move the distributer by hand.
We got a long screwdriver in there against a screw on the vac advance and lightly tapped on the end of it with a hammer, son of a gun it moved, we kept tapping and moved it about 1/2 inch and checked the timing, much closer to 8 degrees now, tapped again and again and got it to where when it started it was at almost 8 degrees but as the engine picked up speed I could see the centrifugal advance move it to just past 10 degrees BTDC.

Please confirm I use plug number one to time it???? It seems to run rougher now and I cannot let it run because I have the alternator belt hanging loose. We did have the vac advance hose off and the hose blocked. I gotta check all the little vac hoses now and see if have any open
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:32 PM   #82
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yes, timing light connected to plug #1. When timing, make sure the vacuum hose to the distributor vacuum can is disconnected and plugged. OP may have advanced timing to cover up something else. Get it set properly and then alternator belt back on so you at least have a starting point. Will just have to work through one thing at a time.

If missing. Pull each plug wire off out of the distributor cap (carefull not to get shocked) one at a time in order to locate the cylinders that are miss firing. If you pull a plug and it runs rougher then that cylinder is firing OK. If there is no change then that cylinder is not firing OK. Once you know for sure what cylinders are not firing then you can center your efforts on that cylinder.

You should also check the distributor vacuum advance can. Engine off; distributor cap off. pull a suction on a hose connected to the vacuum advance can. The plate inside the distributor should move freely.

That appears to be the ignition module. Wire colors are correct. However, the electrical tape may be a clue to previous problems. I have seen ignition modules create oddball problems before. You might want to either replace it or at least have it checked at autozone. Far as I know they can check it. OUside of yours indicates it has been there awile even though it is not the original Motorcraft version.

Dave
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:44 PM   #83
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Sorry if I am slow to respond. At work and can only check the site once in a while during the day.

Dave
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:50 PM   #84
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One thought while your in there dave said something I thought about if you can get a socket on the crank pull no. 1 plug make sure 1 piston is on top when timing mark is lined up that would rule out the chain I bet po timed by ear
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