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Old 10-19-2012, 11:43 AM   #15
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As I recall check engine vacuum in drive then go down 2 numbers to get the right valve mine are blocked off but it's a drag car what carb do you have a 780 or 850 vac secondaries?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:00 PM   #16
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well i will just replace whats in there first with the same. and the rigs 25 miles away at my moms so sat. is when i tear into her nice.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:34 PM   #17
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new pics

well i just got back from cleaning and doing some minor work and have got pics. cleaned up bathroom area and took out wall, replaced generator power line, got all broken wood from water heater area and tested everything(broke the breaker box mounts so i have to rebuild it)but ac, furnace blower and all lights work so thats a plus and so main thing is just rebuilding the inside!
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:07 AM   #18
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Rebuild restoration.

Hope you don't mind a little advice from someone that has restored a 1990 25ft. HiLo. Our walls were all water dammaged. You can use a multitool to remove the thin underlay. Then a razor scraper to get as much as you can off the fiberglass. We used a two part epoxy called Bondo by 3M. WWW.bondo.com This fills in any pin point holes on the interior fiberglass/aluminum that you can't see.Caulk the inside edges on top of the bondo. Use expanding foam and caulk anywhere you can. Then reapply 1/8th underlay on the walls,insulation sheets and then 1/8 vinyl coated paneling. Caulk every possible area on the exterior of your RV. Lexell caulk or sikaflex1A are good caulks to use. Absolutely no silicone caulk as it doesn't flex enough and has no UV properties. Take your time,do it once and do it right and you will be dry and beautiful. Take pictures and post often. Today we were in our RV for four hrs. It poured rain for some of the time and we were Hi and dry.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:40 AM   #19
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yea there is water damage on the passenger side corner on the back the boards are just wedged in there for now. next fri i'm taking some liquid nails and maybe new foam board to get the back wall repaired plus i have to rebuild the wall were the bunk beds and bath room touch. and i need to get a small shower stall so i can get a bit more room in bathroom, any suggestions?
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendragons View Post
my main question is, will a standard corner shower stall fill in with little to no mod, and did the original back wall follow the body line or did it just square up with floor?i have seen zero pics of the back of the braves
I believe the shower stall in most of the 80's Winnebago's were the same. It is a two piece shower/ tub combo. It was mounted extremely close to the rear wall and was wider at the top of the tube BASE, the wall angled toward the interior of the shower as it got closer to the ceiling. All three of the side walls angled in and the open door side of the shower is perpendicular to the floor.

Here are photos of my shower in my 1984 Chieftain. I have my shower in the center, passenger side of my motor home but it is the same identical shower that is install in a 22' and 26' rear bath models. I know this because I have a neighbor that has a 1984 22' Winnebago Chieftain.
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When we were shopping around for our motor home we looked at quite a few different makes and models and this shower was in a lot of the 80's era rv's that we looked at. You may even be able to order one of these from Winnebago Parts - Parts for all Winnebago motorhome makes, models, and years, including Itasca, Rialta, Eurovan - Specializing in the Renault based Winnebago LeSharo, Phasar, and Centauri Motorhomes
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:19 PM   #21
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was thinking about installing a long shower base to include the shower (i have little kids so that may help with accident clean up) this one looks like it may work.
Shop Aqua Glass 48"L x 32"W High Gloss White Shower Floor at Lowes.com

but what would i put on the bare wood floor before the new floor covering and shower base?
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:25 AM   #22
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What kind of flooring are you going to do? Will the drains plumbing be close to where you will need it? What are you going to use to finish the walls with?
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:44 PM   #23
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lowes has some white paneling "hard board" for walls, and the drains should be right were it needs i can drill the tub were the toilet will sit and seal it. and the flooring is going to be some industrial carpeting my dad has leftover (will be changing to peel and stick flooring later) but been trying to think what will need to go under it as a barrier/insulation on the floor. or should i just lay it on the plywood?. but other than that the roof is solid (with out the partition wall for extra support the roofs a little bouncy but im 250 and no support cept the outer walls is good
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:22 PM   #24
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My two cents if you do not mind. I am amazed at how many of the connection joints have cracked and opened up on our RV after we repaired the inside. These things do not drive down the road smooth, more like jiggling and shaking. I would try and find a shower base that will not have any construction joints at the floor level with the walls and the walls solid corners from waist level down. That is the zone where the water will find its way through the shower enclosure And start the water damage to the motorhome shell. Those shower bases are designed f
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:40 PM   #25
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Remodeling

Call a place that does bathroom remodeling and ask them what water protector they use on plywood. Talk with your local Home Depot or Lowes. Ask your local Rv dealer for advice. I had a flooring place install linoleum in my RV. They installed from the BR to the center isle and the one inside storage area of my bench seating. They put down some kind of pink sealer and then glued down the linoleum. Consider putting down some linoleumas BRS in RV are small. The linoleum will be better for small kids. You can perhaps have some scraps of the commercial rug bound off. Or use other small washable throw rugs for warmth. If you glue down the commercial carpet and then take it up later i would think it would be extremely hard to get off the old glue. This would probably be an underlay tearout agtain. I have commercial carpetin my home/upperhallway. It really looks new years later,but is not the softest. Just a few thoughts. Correction,I think the commercial carpet was stretched onto tack strips.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:28 PM   #26
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the carpet tiles im using say to glue the first three center ones and the rest will stay down, and i asked the flooring lady at lowes she said only thing she can think of for the floor is to prime it with a good primer so there will be a barrier between the wood and the carpet tiles.

i've tried to find that rv shower stall that was mentioned by Winnebeater but cant find one, anyone know what catalog they in? i've checked the pdfs on the website he linked to and cant find the shower stall any ideas were it is in the catalog?

and i'm going out to the rig on fri and working on it will get pics of the carpet i'm going to use so we can discuss them in more detail next week.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:09 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by greendragons
i've tried to find that rv shower stall that was mentioned by Winnebeater but cant find one, anyone know what catalog they in? i've checked the pdfs on the website he linked to and cant find the shower stall any ideas were it is in the catalog?
I would call winnebago parts. We have ordered many parts from them for our motor home and 75% of them were not listed in there catalog. They are a great business from our experience with them. You could also try an rv wrecking yard. Do a google search and call them. The information available on most rv websites are limited.
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:46 AM   #28
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Have you tried:

Arizona R.V. Salvage Inc.
tollfree: (877)824-8242
Arizona R.V. Salvage Inc - Used RV Parts, Refurbished RV Appliances, Generators and Motorhome, Travel Trailer, and 5th Wheel Lot

or

Colaw RV Parts & Salvage
Toll Free: (877) 548-2125
We Have Your Part…*|*Colaw RV Parts and Salvage
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