My newly purchased 1981 Midas Class A Motorhome.

[Senior Chief]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lokahi117 I'm looking forward to doing a check on all appliances and functions of the rv. I was thinking that on the generator, the previous owner didn't know there was 2 gas tanks (one main and one aux) controlled by a toggle switch on the dash . since the tank he had mefill was the one that is on the passenger side near the front, that maybe the generator runs off gas from the main tank and the main tank is empty. What do you guys think?

I think its probable that the generator runs off the tank that is closest to it. Your electric toggle switch may not work anymore, which is why the previous owner had you fill the aux tank. Or perhaps your electric fuel pump on that tank is toast.

WARNING- if the main tank is dry, and maybe has been dry a while you may stir up rust and crud when you add gas to it. Check for where your inline gas filters are and install some if you don't have any. Check these frequently when you first start driving on the main tank so you don't pull crud into your carb.

I would put in a minimum of gas into your main tank, maybe 5 or 10 gallons and pull the gas line before the carb to see if the toggle switch and fuel pump is working.

I still recommend the SeaFoam treatment- it does plenty of good and no harm, and will let you check gennie function before you start digging into your gas tank issues.

[Dave78Chief]

Before you run off looking for intank electric fuel pumps, be advised that GM did not start installing intank electric fuel pumps until 1985 1/2 (Vapor lock prevention). Several generators did have a electric fuel pump at the generator itself though. Many times fuel delivery issues are related to cracks in the rubber hoses used to interconnect the lines. It would be helpful if you would provide the model number information off of the generator lable plate.

Most RV mfgs almost always connected the generator to the aux tank. Pickup tube is raised to 1/4 tank level to prevent running the tank out of fuel so you not stranded. Most GM installations only used only one fuel tank. 2 tanks is unusual for 80's era GM based rigs.

Normally, a gas tank select valve is installed with the main tank as the default tank (12VDC not applied to select valve).

Dave

[Lokahi117]

So it turns out the master cylinder was severely neglected. see pictures below. one of the pics is of the master cylinder through the access hole, then the next is a closeup of master cylinder. im guessing thats part of the problem. what do you guys think?

And thanks so much guys for all your replies. Im getting this baby knocked out and brought back from the edge of the scrap heap piece by piece. I will restore it to its former glory and then some.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

[Outlaw45]

my 78 has 2 tanks. 1 tank is 60 galls for the engine and the other is 25 galls and thats for the gen. your master looks really good, problem, ya think.

Outlaw

[Dave78Chief]

I think you could say that a master cylinder that has been empty long enough for corrosion to set in is in need of replacement. Assuming you have a 1980 chassis, NAPA does list master cylinders and other brake parts for the P30 chassis (motorhome parts are mixed in with the P30 -1 Ton Step Van Section). However, as I indicated before, you have to know what brake system configuration you have in order to find the correct part. They show motorhome chassis master cylinders for both vacuum booster and Hydroboost applications.

Dave

[Patrol 65]

I had a 1984 Sportscoach Pathfinder with 2 gas tanks. The forward one on the drivers side was the aux tank and the rear was the main tank. The generator ran off of the main tank and would shut off at 1/4 full. If my memory is correct, the fuel pump was located underneath the coach along the rail on the left side. The chassis was a P-30 with 454 cid engine and I think turbo 400 transmission. 454 truck engine and P-30 chassis parts can be purchased through auto parts stores. I would not recommend driving 1000 miles with cracked tires if they are severely cracked (dry rotted). If you do, keep your speed down to 50 or 55 mph and stop frequently to keep the tire temperature down. A blow out can cause severe mechanical and cosmetic damage to your motorhome.

[Dave78Chief]

Here is a link to the GM Motorhome Service Manual. Provides nice to know information for many years of the P32 chassis but is addition to the normal Light Duty Truck Manuals.

P30 Chevrolet Motorhome Chassis Manual (19MB)

Dave

[ronspradley]

Great information here. I was going to say that first you needed to stop the leaks, but then for some reason everyone started talking about brakes.
OK, maybe brakes first. But you do need to get all the leaks stopped before the inside renovations start. No use fixing up something inside only to have leaks make you do it over again. I agree with the Eternabond tape for seams and roof penetrations, like roof vents. And you will almost certainly need to remove all your side windows and clean and re-apply with new putty tape . This is easy to do and not expensive. Good luck and the best on your re-build.

ronspradley

[Lokahi117]

Got the wipers fixed, got the dash gauges working ( gas, amp, temp, and oil pressure - those this fix was a blown 25 amp fuse that later blew again) checked and got working all the appliances. Though the water heater is rusted though so it looks like it will need replaced. got the generator running - the fuel line was plugged with gunk, blew it out and hooked everything back up and it fired right up. I have a leak under the shower however so ill have to look at that.

The roof looks like no one has really tried to seal it other than the problem areas which are covered with three layers of goop. Im thinking of hitting it with a 4 inch angle grinder and a wire wheel to remove this goop. Any thoughts. ?

also I am wanting to just rebuild the doors of the rv entirely as the current ones are falling apart. any thoughts on that aspect?

there is numerous leak points at the doors and windwos of the rv. it looks like some hardened putty is in the seams and then the previous owner put silicone around each of the openings hoping to help but it didnt. I need some guidance on that one.

the roof may have some rotten wooden framing members and i know several areas of the side walls have rot issues. Is it going to be really difficult to get the paneling off the inside walls and then to replace the rotted pieces. How are the fiberglass sides of the motorhome attached to wooden framing members? is it adhesive or???

ok thats enough questions for now. im eagerly awaiting answers and i will keep you posted on our progress. Thanks again guys I really appreciate any and all of your help.

[Lokahi117]

Im gonna run down some of the wiring issues today. anyone have any thoughts on the previous post? any and all help is appreciated, so anyone who is looking please feel to post anything at all.