My roof repair

[fleamarketer]

Work list for Sat.

Remove bunkbeds

Remove the bathrom wall.

Clean out bathroom from ceiling material

Put on new land line plug

Test 120 items,roof A/C,frig,etc.

Continue to remove ceiling in the rest of MH.


It's just Time and Money

Gary


Test

[fleamarketer]

Just a update:

I have come to realize that any updates I want to do,I got to do them before I reseal the roof.So the vent I see you folks talk about I must get that first.A different crank-up antenta-not sure about that.So while I decided,I have put the roof reseal on hold.

Sat/Sun's work list:

After getting a second land line 30 amp plug,it got me to thinking about the one I bought from Lowes which is plastic.It can't be a weather plug because it is plastic and it surely will get wet at somepoint.So I put it on anyways to test items inside the MH.Oh,I got a second plug because the first one broke.A 30 mile round trip to exchange it.Grrrrrrr.

Ran tested the roof A/C.Seem to blow cold(not sure as cold as it should be-but cold for sure)The heating side of it didn't light up.Going to contact manufacture to see if another heating element can be bought.Frig-got nothing.Blower for floor heater worked fine.

The bunkbed removeal-man the top bunk bed has got tons of screws in it.Holy Cow!!!.Bought a screwdriver bit for my drill.(Yeah-the tenth one likely-at some point I'll find the other nine)So-I'm about haft way thru getting them out.

I have read over and over again that roof leaks travel long ways from the leak.This ceiling is proof of that.I have also read that vents,roof A/C's(although doesn't seem to be the case here),Antenta's,frig vents,plumming stacks,and any other roof cuts are a source for leaks.I see from the ceiling the sources of these leaks and all the above except for the A/C seem to be leaking.It kind of makes sense because the rubber gaskets on these items are compress by a attaching point inside the HM ceiling and if the inside material goes bad-the seal is broken and yeppers-a leak.So to remove the ceiling during a rebuild like mine make tons of sense to see where the leaks are.Kind of a inside out job.Also to remove any possiblity of moldy 1/4 plywood or blueboard.BTW-this blueboard is STUCK on hard.All those years of baking under that roof in the sun sure has the glue cured super hard.

So the next entry on this roof repair will be to remove the top bunkbed to get to the ceiling in that cornner to scrape that off and continue to tear out the shower wall to rebuild that.

It's back in storeage until Weds night because of a business trip on Tues.Will pick it up on Weds and continue to work on it then

[Bucky1]

Go drag racer! I'm not sure I would have had the patience for this project. I admire you and I hope it turns out very nice. I see you are doing all this and working a job too! Drag racers don't have much spare time. We fill it all up!

[fleamarketer]

Buckey,
You ever tig weld a tube frame together for a drag car?.It's just time and money.

Sorry for getting off topic.This might turn out to be a diary of a roof repair and the products used.Next post,how far I got on this job.

[Lorna]

Originally posted by fleamarketer:
...Sorry for getting off topic...

Off topic! Don't you know you aren't allowed to get off topic!

I'm sure I never get off topic...

[fleamarketer]

In the continuing saga of my roof/ceilng repair I need to explain the lay-out.On the passenger side is a side door and you turn right to find the frig,then the bunkbeds and the door to the bathroom in the back.On the driver's side you find the kitchen table,then the stove/oven/hood-then the sink at a angle and again the bathroom door in the back.

I am finding that the damage is about 1/2 acrross the MH about even with the frig stack.The damage is mostly in the rear from that 1/2 point.It was totally damaged in the bathroom ceiling and completely removed by me because of that.I removed the top bunkbed in part because that will be my primary sleeping area(the bottom bunkbed)once the repair is done.I also intend to build a dresser where the back of the top bunkbed was even with the bathroom wall.

But back to the ceiling.I am finding strange 12"x say 24" pcs of medal glued between the 1/4 plywood and the blueboard.I found one in the bathroom ceiling and now one above the bunkbed ceiling.I don't know why they are there.Any one have any answers for that one?.

I did run into a roof support.It is 1" X 2" bow.That is so far anyways.It is a medal square tube.(Thank God for small favors)In a way I am glad I found it.I was about to take a electric hand saw and measure how deep to cut and start to cut sections of the blueboard/ 1/4 plywood to make it earier to scrape it off.If I had not known the roof support was there-ouch!!!!.So I got to find them all before I try to strip the ceiling with the above method.It is going alittle faster with a 24"scraper and a taping with a small hammer.But still is slow going.

The section above the bunkbed has all the 1/4 plywood off now and a good section of the blueboard.

The back wall of the bunkbed area looks like it got wet too.I am alittle afraid of tacking that being a support wall.Not real bad,but still looks like it got wet.I was wondering if I could coat it with a roll-on material the would seal it off and dry it out somewhat.Any suggestions?.

For the parts that I find no damages-kind of temped to not remove them.Comments????

Well that is the progress for far.Looking forward to your posts.

Thanks All In Advance,

Gary


BTW-I am trying to make this 1981 Warrior Winnebago a fulltime safe living space by the end of Oct when I want to move to Atl,Ga for the winter.I can't afford any mistakes in time or money because of that.This part of restoring the MH would be ok if I haven covered the plywood by then.

[fleamarketer]

Oh yeah,The one thing I forgot to ask is there some of a plastic or roll-on material that I should use as a vapor bearer between the blueboard and the roof skin inside the MH?.Seem to me once alittle part of the blueboard gets wet,it would spread like no bodies business like a sponge.

Thanks Again,

Gary

[Lorna]

The "roof support" may have also acted as a wiring chase. The small sheets of metal may have been for attaching screws to; for stuff like "beauty plates" forantennas, roof vents, maybe lights, etc... I'm not sure what else it could have been. I know we didn't find anything like that in ours. Maybe someone else has run into them. If the wood has just gotten wet but not rotted (is currently dry and solid), then you are okay leaving it. If it's rotted then you need to replace. Leave all that is sound. Replace all that is broken or rotted. Why on earth would you want to be in Atlanta?? (Says the person who will be stuck back in Cordele GA in January). You will need to be able to handle the occasional 3 day freeze. It usually takes that long of freezing temps (usually only at night) to start freezing you. Heat tape and pipe insulation will take care of your water hose. A small tip: have your water heater set up to work on LP and electric. We installed a duplex receptacle inside the RV on a switch. The switch is located next to the front of the water heater (access panel under range) so that I can switch it on/off from inside... the electric heat rod plugs into the receptacle. It is cheaper to pay for the electric rather than run LP down here (I pay nothing extra at this park for water heater and AC unit... or full hook-ups either ). I don't think you need to concern yourself about a vapour barrier. You would not be able to get it sealed right to work. Blueboard (and pink board) does not soak up much water.

[fleamarketer]

Thank you Lorna.

In terms of Alt,Ga for the winter,it is a forgoten hot spot for fleamarket vendors in the winter.

[fleamarketer]

Well I took sometime away from the roof/ceiling repair to put on the road my high top 1985 Astro which is nicknamed "Ole Yellar".I bought it from a ebay sale and dolly towed it back to Roch NY from Bristol TN with my other Astro which is a 1994 LT.Ole Yellar is stated for a V8 conversion to become a towing van for my fleamarket business towing my small vendor trailer.My dual wheel 12' trailer is slated to go behind my RV and to somewhat stay at a multi date fleamarket while the rest of the week I travel from single date markets in Ole Yellar.I found the shorty 85 to be really a much more fun ride over the 94 LT.Steer's faster and seems to be faster than the 94.I will post more about that after the V8 TBI 350 conversion is complete.

So I will be back on the roof/ceiling repair starting on Friday.I will stay on that until it is done from Friday to the 4th of Sept.Full time.So as things come about with that,I'll post it.Might be daily progress report.

Sorry about the off topic post again.Had to set-up what has been happening as a late and what is next to come.

BWT:Snow Roof Systems or it's parent comapany has not been very easy to contact either by phone or fax.

Gary

[fleamarketer]

Well,
I'm (yes) still scraping the ceiling.LOL-starting to see stuck blueboard in my sleep.The Roof sealing will be a pc of cake compaired to the ceiling repair.After this if the MH is going to set for awhile,I'm going to wrap it with a bow so no water ever gets into it again.Hoping to have the ceiling totally removed by Weds.

[fleamarketer]

One of the things you get to realize when you do a roof resealing job is it normally involves a ceiling repair as well.With mine-the 1/4 plywood is sandwished between a inside trim plate that runs the whole length of the MH on both sides.And that trims plate holds down the roof or so it seems.(the ceiling materail is blueboard glued to the roof and then 1/4 plywood glued to it and sandwished between the inside trim plate that holds the roof down.Once you remove the 1/4 plywood and blueboard all the roof openings are not attached any longer because the attaching points are a compression between the roof and the plywood.(what I mean by roof opennigs is the vent,A/c etc.)So it becomes a question of the chicken or the egg question.You know working outside you got to be right on top of the weather and hope to god they are right.Having to lift the roof alittle to get out the rotted plywood from the ceiling you can't really reseal the roof yet.chances of doing both all on one day is not likely.You don't want to refinsh the ceiling and have it rain and ruin you work on that.For me,I am afraid to release the whole roof at one time and lose the walls plum to the roof.As my friend Lorna and her husband told me who are members of this site(BTW thanks for all your help so far),these MH's where built from the frame up and I kind of came to know that thru working on this project.So all the cabinets,bathroom walls in the back,hood for the stove(attached to the cabinets),frig stack,where not put in before the ceiling was installed.So what od you do??.Well the items above I will take out tomorrow short of the frig stack which I will have to cut later for a frig update.I am going to leave sections of the old ceilings in to try to hold the walls in place while I replace what I have scraped out.That means I have left alittle short of 1/2 of the old ceiling.Any updates I want to do to the roof like a skylight over the shower to give me more room in the shower has to be done before I reseal the roof.So what do you do???.well you go to Lowes and buy the gray 10ml tarps.Do it in sections and as Snow Roof Systems said prime the roof-put on seal tape and prime over the top of it.Them once the ceiling is back in place where the roof can handle the extra wt,reseal the roof.Thank god Snow Roof Sysytems has a 10 yr warrentee,because I wouldn't want to do this job again.

I will update as more work gets done,

Gary

[fleamarketer]

I forgot to add that I found 1"x 2" tube roof bows and in the center 1" x 4" tube roof bow welded to 1" x 2" tube that runs the lenght of the MH on both sides and that is screwed to the sides of the MH.

More to come,

Gary

[fleamarketer]

I think I might have miss titled this thread.It should read the diary of a Winnebago Warrior RV rebuild.As I have said before,I am learning about a Roof reseal/ceiling repair as I go along doing it.Once I scrap off the ceiling,any thing tied to it on the roof is now loose.So you kind of have to plan around the weather working outside.I have about 1/2 of the ceiling removed now.Also as I have said I found tube framing riveted together sandwishing the plywood.It's odd that the outside of the MH is round and the inside is square.(By the tubing)I keep thinking that there must be a rubber seal between the roof tubing and the wall tubing.I'll know more after this wkend after I cut off some of the rivets to take a closer look by just lifting the roof alittle and look between the tubes.I still haven't figured out how the roof is attached in the rear.But there is a fiberglass cap that has all the tailights and trim lights mounted to it and screwed to the sides and the top.Guess that has got to come off to see how the roof is held down there in the rear.Yep that seam is caulked with really old caulk.I got 1/2 of the cabinets down.It is strange to find the condition on the passenger of the MH in really bad shape and towards the front of the drivers side looking a lot better.It was a really good feeling to find plywood on the bathroom wall on the drivers side in like new condition.Yep,that is a great feeling for sure.The bathroom is in the back of the MH.You have to replace the whole 4x8 sheet of plywood on the ceiling because it runs side to side and is riveted on each side making the MH a stronger unit in general and raddel free.So if you find one 1/2 in great shape and the other in proor shape,the whole sheet of plywood ceiling has got to go.Grrrrrrr.But I expect to spend the rest of the days of my life in this RV and it has to be done right as I can do right can be.Likely to go farther than Winnebago did when they built it.I'll have more for this thread as I get more done.

Thank You Lorna,her husband and Capt Dan.If it wasn't for you guidance I would be totally lost on this project.

Gary