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Old 09-17-2007, 09:59 AM   #71
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If your Interpretation of blueboard is the same as mine..Yes! Blue foamboard can be cut down and worked into almost any space and The studs will be stronger because of the wood used. You could use 1X3" or 2X2" And pop rivet that to the studs and then use your foamboard and then luwan board for your roof. Another good reason to use wood to reinforce the skylight with something to screw into. Wood is stronger than aluminum and can be shaped if necessary. I hope we are on the same page here??
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Old 09-17-2007, 06:27 PM   #72
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Dan,
The blueboard was between the roof bows.The plywood is the only thing that when over the roof bows.If I add studs the blueboard would have to go between them and the luan plywood would go over that.So the studs would be glued to the roof skin and riveted to the roof bows with blueboard between them and plywood over all of it.BTW:looking at camera's to try to make this easier.Gary
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Old 09-17-2007, 06:35 PM   #73
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Blue board is the foam insulation, right??
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Old 09-18-2007, 12:06 AM   #74
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Yes Dan.

BTW:The company who's skylight I am looking at is from Lowes called Sun-Tek Skylights.The model I am looking at is the 2230 in the TP series which has got a roof opening of 22 1/2" x 30 1/2" and a finshed opening of 21 1/2" x 29 1/2".It has a curb of 5 1/2" and a triple clear dome.Gary
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:26 PM   #75
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I'm back on the job on Friday.Still fighting to get the inside trim pc off which sandwished the Plywood ceiling to the tube frame.Got most of the rivets off and I think there are no bolts on the rear of it,but it is bolted on the front and middle behind the frig stack with 3/8's bolts.I believe by getting that off it will expose what holds a outside trim pc that is in the middle of the roof seam on the side.The roof rolls over to the side and that trim pc is in the middle of the roof seam on the side of the MH.I want to reseal that seam to be sure it is not leaking.No ceiling replacement will happen until I know for sure I got all the leaks.
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:52 PM   #76
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3/8 th's bolts???? Are you unbolting the roll bars??? There isn't any 3/8 bolts that would hold the metal roof on??? You aren't taking the roll bars off so you shouldn't need to remove the bolts. The bolts should be under the plywood roof that is what holds the roll bar together. Unless they have gone and changed there construction???
Wish you could get pictures so we all could see this!
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:51 PM   #77
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Im doing the same to my cieling on 79 Itasca and Im going to take 1x3 and screw from top of roof then glue foam board and luan and then screwing luan to the 1x3and putting cieling carpet of luan but this is only on rear section of RV hoping to be able to seal those screws from the roof.
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:10 PM   #78
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Hey geeksquad 21, you should let us see that! Tell and show helps the others see and all that, what you are doing and why. Don't be a stranger, Welcome to the forum and the Vintage rv forum!!
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:50 AM   #79
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I am going shopping for a camera this wk and I hope to buy one at the end of the wk.
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Old 09-22-2007, 05:10 PM   #80
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That should work! Hang in there,
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Old 09-27-2007, 04:58 PM   #81
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Well I have almost all the frig stack out to get the rotted wood out of there.Another puzzle worked out.Gezzzzz.If I could only send a picture.The side trim that sandwishes the luan between the tube that runs the whole side and is riveted thru the luan and screwed to the side walls has almost all the rivets out and has just the bolts under the plastic pc over the drivers/passenger seats holding it.And still it won't move.Grrrrrrr.Wanted to see if there are any leaks there.

Rained today while I was working on the inside.Kind of rained hard.Confused.The only real leak I have found was alittle by the main center seam by the bathroom vent and the broken vent cover its self.Yet I have found all this rotted wood as I have posted before.Nothing around the A/C openning,nothing around the Frig stack openning,just the bathroom vent.

Got me to thinking I might just seam seal it and primer the roof before I finsh the ceiling repair.What you folks think?.
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:39 PM   #82
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I don't know the layout of the rv, But is the roof the same height all the way from the front to back or is there a raise above the cab for the overhead cab bed?? And where is this in relation to the leak?? If the main damage is where this vent for the bath is, and the roof is the same height front to back then it is most likley the only leak. Another thing to think about is that they may have parked on a hill?? Parked both ways on that hill?? Water follows two the least bit of resistance.
In mine the stor mor leaked up front but even after the stormor was removed and the roof sealed, it still leaked in that are somewhere and worked toward the back and pooled in the lowest spot on the roof..right above Tweets bed!! Nice way to wake up!!
That leak had to travel over half the length to get to her!! Thats over twelve feet!! All it takes is one!!!!
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:14 PM   #83
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Nope-no bed over the cab.Same front to back.It was parked under a tree for 5 years before I got it.As I remember it it was level there.Look back acouple of pages where the layout is posted.
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:20 PM   #84
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One of our leaks was from a screw the factory run thru the face frame and it punched a tiny pinhole thru the roof. Found it on a nice sunny day when we ripped out the interior.
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