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07-27-2011, 02:28 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Dublin, VA
Posts: 391
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SeniorChief - I think you're right. There almost appears to be a water pump AND a small air compressor located in the one photo. It could be someone converted it over to a air pressurized system since it's got a metal tank. Glad you found the other restore project, that should help get things moving along. I totally agree with the LP advice but I think if it were me I'd tackle that portion last. ...just my thoughts.
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Mike & Cindy, (of course with Lucy the Miniature Schnauzer & Eddie the Yorkie) Dublin, VA / Fun Finder TT / X215WSK
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07-27-2011, 02:56 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 128
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Your taking on a HUGE project, but i like to see that determination in another young RVer. dont give up, youll get discouraged but persevere and you will have a great feeling of satisfaction. I just had to do all new brakes on mine, 600 in parts but saved thousands by doing it myself! cant wait to see the result!
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07-27-2011, 03:06 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Murphy, NC, USA
Posts: 1,117
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Hi,
Ater seeing all the pictures and reading what you wrote I personally would walk away friom this trailer because if you proceed you will be throwing good money after bad. It was neglected for so long that after you get one thing repaired something else will break. Those mice that ate all the poison are probably dead some place in the walls.
There are a lot of trailers out there that need maybe a little fixing but not as bad as that trailer. Yes you said free and it is not even worth that. I'm sorry but I usually say the way it is.
__________________
2014 Winnebago Adventurer 35P,Ford F-53, V-10
2011 Ford Escape,2000 Roadmaster Tow Dolly
"Have a Great Day, Enjoy RVing."
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07-27-2011, 03:42 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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that hose in the pipe at the back is there so I'll check into that do you guys need Any other pictures? I'm not backing down right now I've already planned to strip the wood in the walls the family is in the carpentry business so materials aren't aren't hard to get by it's free and I need a hobby good advice tho at the worst it'll be a craft shed
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07-27-2011, 04:04 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Oklahoma Boomers Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,801
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We had one years ago, the water tank is gravity fed then you would use the service station compressor to fill with air, this would ensure you got water and didn't need a pump. We removed the whole tank and inlet, replaced with a standard water tank, fill tube and water pump.
__________________
Ron & Wendy-Kansas
94 Pace Arrow 34 ft
25 yr Army retired 2006
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07-27-2011, 04:39 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Klamath County, Oregon
Posts: 245
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First I'd like to correct some misinformation that's been given. You do not have a gravity fed water system, it has not been "converted" to a pressurized system, and the item you have pictured is not a water pump. The only place gravity comes in is in filling the tank, same as a modern RV water system.
What you have is a typical air pressurized water system of that era. They were used into the early 70s by some manufacturers. Prior to the use of demand water pumps, RV water systems were pressurized with air. The round metal tank is original and is the water supply tank. The pump you show is actually an air compressor that cycles automatically to maintain pressure in the supply tank. The second thing with the vertical motor I can't identify, but it may be an original compressor that failed, since the one that is clearly a compressor looks like it has been added on. The vertical one appears to be bolted down, and the other one is just sitting there in an odd position.
I've had, and worked on, RVs with that kind of system, although it's been quite a few years ago. They work fine, and are very quiet until the compressor comes on. Then there is an extended period of very annoying noise while the compressor brings the system back up to pressure.
One downside to these systems is that it's very difficult to know when you have a very slow leak in the system. It's silent. With an electric demand system, even a leak as small as a drip causes the water pump to cycle on and off fairly frequently, giving you a heads-up that you may have a leak.
If one of the compressors is still functional, you can salvage the system as is. But if they are both bad, they are much more expensive to replace than a demand pump. You can still use the existing tank and system with a demand pump, but you will have to vent the tank. That's easy to do at the fill cap.
JP
__________________
Jim Price
curmudgeon: noun; a crusty, ill-tempered, irascible, cantankerous old person . . . .
79 27' Holiday Rambler Statesman, 78 32' HR Imperial, 85 36' HR Imperial 5th Wheel
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07-27-2011, 05:46 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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OKAY! looks like I got some attention thanks guys! So tonights plan is to attempt.......to take the cabs down so I can start getting to the water damage So exciting.
Quick question. How many off you actually have an oven in your TT? When I had my own appt I really only used the oven. and when I dont use the oven I can use a slow cooker just a though considering there's a piece of insulation chilling out in there .
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07-27-2011, 06:03 PM
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#22
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Moderator Emeritus
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bryan, TX when not traveling.
Posts: 22,948
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The water system on that old gal is an air pressurized system. When you operated on the water tank you filled the tank, sealed the cap and then pressurized the tank with an the Schrader air valve. It should have also had a small on board air compressor (12 VDC) to pressurize the tank and keep pressure on the system. These old systems eventually had a tank leak which was the reason it was bypassed.
The best thing to do if you keep it and want to dry camp is to replace the metal tank with a plastic tank and a 12 VDC water pump.
Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you.
Ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|No Longer Full-Time! - 2023 Cougar 22MLS toted by 2022 F150, 3.5L EcoBoost Tow Max FX4 Lariat Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot, retired mechanical engineer
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07-27-2011, 06:13 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,692
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I just sat back in my seat after seeing the pics and said WOW!. I have to give you all the credit in the world for taking this on but heck when it's done look at what you'll have. Not only to say that I did this myself. Quite the accomplishment to say the least. Hang in there and if questions arise make sure to post them here. I'm sure there are plenty of knowledgeable people here to help you thru. Keep us posted.
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Steve & Sally / Hudson Our Little Pom / Heidi, Houston & HiTee Forever in our Hearts
04 NEWMAR MACA 3778 W22 / 05 PT Vert
Michigan (Summer) Michigan (Winter For Now)
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07-27-2011, 06:37 PM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXiceman
The best thing to do if you keep it and want to dry camp is to replace the metal tank with a plastic tank and a 12 VDC water pump.
Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you.
Ken
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yes. I think that giant metal SOB needs to go. Im sure I could have a whole other cabinet under there.
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07-27-2011, 07:15 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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OKAY!
So I've Decided to make a fancy To do list.
- Investigate the water Damage at:
- Exhaust vent
- skylights
- mysterious pipe that comes out of the floor in the closet goes into the ceiling(across the ceiling) down and out at the side of the shower
- near the door which occurred because the camper was unlevel and leaned low on the door side
- Reframe
- seal the roof
And thats as far as im going right now. This should keep me occupied wayy into september
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1970ish Yellowstone Capri
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07-27-2011, 08:51 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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OH today was useless. I attempted to take the dinette out and the screws are weird shaped I got two out and it killed the only bit that fit. GAH! heading to lowes to find one that properly fits
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1970ish Yellowstone Capri
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07-27-2011, 09:05 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: OH - H - EYE - OH
Posts: 735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gfaanijray
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I like the old school interior. Keep it the way it is!
__________________
On 10/15/10,
Puchased a 1989 Class B Dodge Xplorer In Cash
On 5/2/15, Fiance' purchased 2002 Dynamax Carri-go in cash.
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07-27-2011, 09:43 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Camano Island Washington
Posts: 159
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this is the diagram of a 74 water tank compressor
the Pic of the water fill is missing the pressure gauge.
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