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Old 07-23-2012, 01:58 PM   #15
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The fan still turns when the clutch in disengaged, just at a slower rate and 'slips'.. It really roars when engaged. They are cheap and easy to change. You should NOT be over heating in traffic and I would speculate that the reason you were not before and are now is that the electric fan was saving you..
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grafxman View Post
Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram?
http://bdub.net/manuals/P30/P30.pdf

See 2-12.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:46 PM   #17
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Thanks Don and Mary. Unfortunately there isn't much wiring info in the manual. It seems geared mostly toward wrench turning.
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Old 07-23-2012, 07:44 PM   #18
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Thanks Don and Mary. Unfortunately there isn't much wiring info in the manual. It seems geared mostly toward wrench turning.
Here's 2-12
Attached Files
File Type: pdf p30 AC wiring.pdf (411.8 KB, 25 views)
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:08 AM   #19
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Thanks again DonDee.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:38 AM   #20
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I don't have any blown fuses. I don't know about a relay. Here's the full story of my A/C saga. The A/C stopped working shortly after starting a 6 day trip to S. Florida. I had to run the genny and the roof top A/C the rest of the trip. When I got back I started troubleshooting. I soon discovered that there was no pressure in the A/C line. I then discovered that the compressor was not engaging.

I ran a separate wire to the compressor through a switch. I started the engine, engaged the compressor and discovered I still had no pressure in the A/C lines. While charging the A/C I noticed the electric fan wasn't running. When the A/C was converted to the new stuff over 2 years ago the guy who did it put 48 oz in it. I put about 38 oz in and, as of yesterday, I have cool air coming out the vents. The air doesn't seem to be as cold as it once was but that's just idling.
Maybe you did this, and I missed it. Be sure to put a can of leak sealer in the A/C, that 38 oz fill you did is a lot. Buy a kit of sealer with leak detector and the special light with it to find your leak.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:21 AM   #21
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Maybe you did this, and I missed it. Be sure to put a can of leak sealer in the A/C, that 38 oz fill you did is a lot. Buy a kit of sealer with leak detector and the special light with it to find your leak.
Yes one can I put in did have sealer and it supposedly had red dye. I went out a few days later and it had all leaked out. I couldn't find any red dye anywhere. I just this morning filled it again, this time with 3 cans that contained sealer and one regular can. That's 48 oz total. That's what was on a label inside the front put there when somebody converted it. Then I did something I didn't do the first time. I took it for a spin. I noticed after the first fill up the air temp wouldn't go below 60 degrees at a vent however that was just idling. This time the temp started at 60 however by the time I returned it had got to about 45. So, I am hopeful but not optimistic that it won't leak out anymore.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:49 PM   #22
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All you did was push air through the condenser, thus the lower temps.. Sealer wont do anything if it all leaks out in 1-3 days..
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:50 PM   #23
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Yes one can I put in did have sealer and it supposedly had red dye. I went out a few days later and it had all leaked out. I couldn't find any red dye anywhere. I just this morning filled it again, this time with 3 cans that contained sealer and one regular can. That's 48 oz total. That's what was on a label inside the front put there when somebody converted it. Then I did something I didn't do the first time. I took it for a spin. I noticed after the first fill up the air temp wouldn't go below 60 degrees at a vent however that was just idling. This time the temp started at 60 however by the time I returned it had got to about 45. So, I am hopeful but not optimistic that it won't leak out anymore.
There is a product "Super Seal" at Wal-Mart and Advance Auto. I put it in my wife's 1995 convertible 3 times over a period of 6 months finally got the leak stopped. Her car sets a lot (28,000 miles) I drove it daily for about a week which seemed to do the trick.
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:06 PM   #24
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the frt mounted fan on a 454 receives a ground signal from a temp sensor on the right cyl head. Find that single wire sensor, remove the wire and ground it...the fan should come on..Do this with the engine running
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:17 AM   #25
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The best vehicle I ever owned was a Pontiac Sunbird. I put over 350,000 miles on it. After about 200,000 miles it began to overheat a little when stopped in traffic. At that point I installed a small electric fan in front of the condenser coil in front of the radiator. I wired it in so that when the A/C was on it actuated a relay that fired up the little fan. The effect was dramatic. The car stopped heating up when stopped in traffic and the A/C started working much better. The only things I ever replaced on that great little car were a couple of water pumps, the timing belt, and muffler. I sold it to a neighbor's kid for $200.00 bucks and he drove it for a couple more years.

I've had one of these little fans on every vehicle I've owned since except our Duramax Diesel. I wanted to install one on it but couldn't figure out how to attach it what with the transmission cooler, condenser core, and radiator. The thing is a foot thick, and I couldn't get the long nylon fasteners through all the assembled cooling cores.

These little fans sure make one's A/C work better when one is just idling or hung up in traffic.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:11 AM   #26
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Thanks a lot folks. I really appreciate it. I'm taking it to a shop on Monday. I talked to the repair shop owner yesterday and I'm taking it in on Monday. I'm just hoping it doesn't cost too much.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:58 AM   #27
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I rewired the fans on my '88 Itasca and have them controlled by the engine temp, on with the a/c, and a dash switch so I can turn them on with the engine off. I do this when we make short stops here in Az so the carb doesn't get too hot from no air flow under the hood. Really helps when it is over 100'.
I also replaced the radiator and the fan clutch. found out Auto Zone severe duty fan clutch is designed to come on at 195', the same temperature as the engine thermostat opens at. These were fighting each other and the fan clutch was on most of the time. I replaced the engine thermostat with a 180' and now the fan clutch is off more than on. Really made a difference in fuel mileage.
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:28 AM   #28
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Boy has this brought back memories, on the maiden voyage pulling a car I went over a hill and heard this horrible sound comming from the front end. In as much as I was still moving I kept going and lo and behold as soon as I started down the hill it stopped. I eventually found out what it was. I too had a switch for the factory installed fan and used them most of the time. The joys of RVing.

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