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Old 09-05-2015, 09:42 PM   #15
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Okay some suggestiins.

First get a hand pump trigger style oil can and fill it with gas then use it to squirt into carb.

Cheaper than starting fluid and safe.

Next get a can or pour on chemtool carb cleaner.

Look at the top of your carb and there should be a vent tube sticking up out of the top usually near the center.

You can squirt fuel into the float Bowl through that vent with the oil can and also spray into the intake to keep it running.

Fill your oil can with chemtool and continue to spray into vent with engine running and fuel line clamped shut.

After you have used one can full refill with chemtool and shut engine off.

Squirt more into vents until you see it pouring into engine through venturi in center of carb.

Let it soak for 30 minutes then start engine and quickly open throttle for higher rpm then close choke as this will make for high vacuum that may pull the crud out.

Repeat until you run out of chemtool then unplug gas line and make sure filter in carb. If present is good or remove for now.

Open fuel line and see if you get any better.

You may have a stuck float seat then compressed air can be used to open it sometimes but it requires using a regulator to allow starting with low pressure and working up.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:53 PM   #16
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In the morning I think I'm going to try pull out the filter n c if it's clogged or not, based off my logic that would be next point of falue since I no gas is getting up 2 it, seems like last few suggestions are in the same line that it got clogged by old gas/ now varnish since the rv Sat for years before I bought it ( forget to mention it earlier)

Texan if u give me some instructions on how to take top half off to c bowl I will after I try the filter,

I have the overall manual so my plan was after checking filter was to rebuild the carb completely tomorrow if I can rent the specal tools needed. From AutoZone or wherever I can rent them, but didn't really want to get into it that deep if I didn't have to
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:08 PM   #17
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Texan by top half, is that taking off the air horn? ..........I'm getting my YouTube on watching ppls trouble shoot and rebuild these quad jets,
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:34 PM   #18
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TQ60 has some good sug. There are some screws around the top cover. But if you don't have a rebuild kit, Murphy says you will tear the gasket and then need a kit.
It has been over 40 years since I had one open. I switched to British cars in 1967.
Did you ever get the accelerator pump to squirt?
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:44 PM   #19
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Haven't read all the posts, but you did say Quadra-jet , so have you replaced the inline filter in the front of the carb ?
Small bronze filter in the 1 1/2 " long housing where the fuel line connects at the front of the carb.
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:01 PM   #20
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This picture of the Q-jet shows the writing; filter ; on the housing and the brass cap must be removed for access. Other models of the carb had the fuel inlet on other angles , but the final filter was still there. I'll see if I can pull up a picture, of the filters. There may have been a variant filter used also.
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:56 PM   #21
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I git a carb kit, once I got into it, the accelerator pump moved freely, but when went to take out learned the gasket had desolved/ fell apart/ some how melted to side of the little tube it was in, also the power valve. (.... Dr if that's right name off top of my head, but thing attached to 2 neadles that go into jets was stuck in place with varnish

So I got 90% 're assembled abd then wife n 14th month old daughter drug me away from finishing

So it will b back on in the morning n hopefully fixes the problems
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:31 AM   #22
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If you have the TB carb., make sure that while you crank, the nozzle(s) on top are spraying fuel. If there are 2 plastic injectors on top with wires, make sure they are snapped in all the way. Sometimes they pop off the connection when you remove the air cleaner housing.
If there is no power at all, check your fuses. If you have the real older type carb., there may be a paper filter inside the carb at or near the base. Some even have rubber check valves inside that stick.
If worse comes to worse, use a temporary electric fuel pump and a can of gas to get to move it and cover your butt while you figure out the issue. Good luck.

Tony
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #23
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In days of old when the fuel pump was engine mounted sticking the fuel line in a gas can worked,, In fact I did it on an ONAN generator that needed some TLC to get it cranking (I got it craking,, 1st Onan I ever worked on, No manual, had to figure it out)....

Today's tank mounted Fuel pumps that WILL NOT WORK, period.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:15 AM   #24
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In days of old when the fuel pump was engine mounted sticking the fuel line in a gas can worked,, In fact I did it on an ONAN generator that needed some TLC to get it cranking (I got it craking,, 1st Onan I ever worked on, No manual, had to figure it out)....

Today's tank mounted Fuel pumps that WILL NOT WORK, period.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:44 AM   #25
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So I bought a carb kit n rebuilt it, the powet valve was seized with varnish, along with the secondary needles, also the accelerator pump moved freely, but gasket was desolved/ stick to inside of the tube

So needless to say it runs and drives. ...... breaks are iffy as I found out by comeing within an inch of destroying my neighbors fence. .... however I wouldn't have felt too bad if I did since he's who called city code ppls on me, instead of talking to me about it
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:49 PM   #26
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Way to go. Just under the wire.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:54 PM   #27
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how many running RVs are you allowed time to fill the Yard up!!!

I live in a small town where anything goes boats / rvs / trailers parked anywhere no one cares.... it is really nice... people more concerned with using the toys then where they are stored...
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:31 AM   #28
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Congratulations!
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