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Old 07-03-2015, 10:06 PM   #15
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Keep plugging away at it, I will try to get a pic of my batteries
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:25 PM   #16
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So an update on where I'm at so far, I jacked up the front of the rv and removed front tires. Once I did that I was able to get a bit better look, they weren't actually spark plug tubs that I was having trouble with ( so I don't feel completely stupid ( they were an after market aluminum plug cover that acts like a heat shield (since my rv is notorious for heat sink issuse with starter, spark plugs and cables) that press onto the white end of the spark plugs

So plugs are out and some oil was put into holes where spark plugs were, plan to take out the radiator ( going to get it 're cored anyway ) by end of week so I can see if I can turn engine over by hand


While I was waiting the 24 hrs of oil sitting on pistols I chose to drop the fule tank ( huge 90 gal tank) and plan to clean that, prob sand blast ant put a few coats of pain on the out side and have inside recoated. And plan to replace all fule hoses while I'm at it ( only about 50 ft of hoses needed from back tires to tail pipe ( ....... I had no idea that much hose was needed)


My next question is about fule lines. After the hoses come out of the tank, the 2 that go to the engine are rubber from the tank till just past rear axle, and then they go to 2 metal tubes, up until they get to the fule filter ( just past the side door on my class A )


Would there be any logical or mechanical reason that I couldn't. Just when replacing the fule lines just have each line, be rubber from tank up to the fule filter (.... and where ever other line goes to, I'll be honest I ran out of light and didn't get to trace it to end destination) as long as they are requiring same inside diameter fule line at both points of connection?

I figured it be cheaper and easier for me to to do, than replace the metal tubing part of fule line that's ten to 15 ft long, and also eliminate 2 possible connections for being possible leaks


Thanks again for all of the help
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Old 07-15-2015, 02:13 AM   #17
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Get an oil squirting can and fill it with any type atf and leave about 2 inches of rubber.

Pump the atf into the line as it is very high detergent and will clean well.

When it comes out other end let it sit for a few days then place rag over opposite end and blow out with compressed air.

If chunks repeat until clear fluid then replace rubber part and you are good to go.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:30 AM   #18
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Personally I would just make sure the metal lines are open on the inside by blowing them out with air. If your worried about them having crude in them TQ60's idea would be good. I have used an A/C flush gun to flush them at times. I have also used acetone or lacquer thinner as the flush median. Have never had an issue with the metal lines after making sure they are open.
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:56 AM   #19
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Is there any reason why rubber I couldn't just run rubber fule line from tank all the way to engine

I no metal would b better than rubber in 50 years lol but don't trust po n how he maintained things and cut and spliced other wires that shouldn't have been

So for things like fule lines and brakes n other important systems in the rv, it's a replace everything that isn't a $500 part.
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkey View Post
Is there any reason why rubber I couldn't just run rubber fule line from tank all the way to engine

I no metal would b better than rubber in 50 years lol but don't trust po n how he maintained things and cut and spliced other wires that shouldn't have been

So for things like fule lines and brakes n other important systems in the rv, it's a replace everything that isn't a $500 part.

If the fuel lines are brown and look/are rusted, they're steel and you could use same size brake line as replacement. Just go along line and make sure no rust has eaten through(check with screwdriver by jabbing). If good on outside, blow through with air, block off opposite end then squirt in some mineral spirits/acetone and block off for 24hr and blow air through to clean out. Repeat if needed. New fuel filter between tank and pump and GTG


Automotive stores carry fuel/brake lines in coiled packages just for this purpose. For length you need, you may need more than one box, and it's not very expensive----considering. Do a price comparison between something that will last "another lifetime" or something that will need replaced every 10yrs, plus your time again to R&R.


They didn't use stainless lines for fuel until they started using fuel injection as it required higher pressures.


Not saying you can't use rubber lines from tank to carburetor, but you'd be safer and better off with shorter pieces of fuel hose.
Also, I've seen older rubber hose collapse on itself, from pump pressure and trying to draw from tank.
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:29 PM   #21
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Thanks eagle again, never thought of lines collapsing on itself


But hears the next update of where I'm at, was able to pull radiators, and able to SUCCESSFULLY
ABLE TO TURN ENGINE OVER BY HAND , ( my biggest worries are over for now) but since engine turns over fine it's time to start putting some money into this project, since the radiator is out and I have easy (.... as easy as its going to get I should say) access to the front of the engine. Is there anything else that I should replace that's not on the list below, that could save me a headache later


Starter
Fule pump
Fule lines
Fule filter
(Dr what it's called) but thing in fule tank
Alternator
Water pump
Antifreeze reservoir (was missing when I bought it)
Spark plugs
Cables to distributor
All the belts, hoses, and fluids obviously

Prob going to 're core the radiators, and possibly try getting gas tank cleaned and 're coated ( just opened it up to see inside n it's got a ton of crud inside n some rust) if I get it cleaned n 're coated I'll prob sand blast the outside n slap a few coats of paint on it since it has few places that has a little rust, if not going to go to the junk yard and see what types of fule tanks I can pull and connect together to make 90+ gal tank
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:15 AM   #22
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Depending on skill level I would put a kit in the carburetor. I would make sure the mechanical advance is cleaned and lubed in the dist. and the vacuum advance holds vacuum. New cap and rotor are not that much money while you are there. Since you have the antifreeze drained I would install a new thermostat. If engine uses a fan clutch I would check it for leaks, if none I would test it with a heat gun to make sure it locks up. While you have the spark plugs out I would drop the old oil, install new and crank it for a while to build oil pressure and get oil back to everything. This will be easier on the starter and will spin the motor faster. Will help pump the lifters back up etc.
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:42 PM   #23
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Glad the engine turns over for you freely.

Don't remember what mileage you have, or if you mentioned, but with radiator out, now would be a great time to time the engine to TDC(top-dead center) and install new timing chain/gears kit. The old cam gears are nylon coated to keep quiet, and as they age and in use the nylon breaks apart and your timing chain gets loose and engine gets cantankerous from not holding proper timing due to chain slop. New kits don't have the nylon coated cam gear(all steel). You will also need a timing cover seal, new front oil pan seal and timing cover gasket. All total for less than $150 and your time, but do it now, and it'll save you $1500 from a mechanic that will need to do it later.

There's many good "youtube" videos on this to lead you through and if you have some good mechanical friends, now would be a good time to get their help.

If you remove your distributor for any repairs, you want to time the engine anyway to make sure you place it back in correctly. Mark it with a white grease pencil on mount base and engine block(clean grime off first) to make sure everything aligns correctly, as the distributor is geared to the cam and the timing rotor will rotate when removing/installing.

Yes, with radiator out, change out the thermostat/gasket along with upper/lower hoses and ALL heater hoses and install new screw clamps.

Until you get things going with usage, it will be difficult to tell how the heater core is as it ties into your heater hoses. I guess it would be good time to also do it, since you are rerodding your radiator, and you'll definitely know the heat/cool engine system will be top notch. It might be inside your A/C system and enclosed as it all ties together using same blower fan and control panel on dash. This is your call.

Don't worry about a new starter at this time---unless you know it is burnt out. I would hook up a battery to prime the engine when you get some new oil/filter installed, while the plugs are out. It'll spin quick and easy to really get some oil in badly needed places.


The thing in the fuel tank is called a fuel tank sending(float) unit. When you take it out, take with you to automotive store to match up with new. Heck, if it needs cleaned up, you might be able to use the old one just fine. Your call.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:56 AM   #24
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All good advice,when we got our 86 p30 we replaced all rubber,timing gears t-stat ect. But one thing I will tell to to replace is fuel pump in or near the fuel tank. do a soft flush on transmission and replace filter,since you have the tank remove the rear end cover and
drain the fluid and replace.Do not mess the that Q-Jet carb and replace it with an Edelbrock 750 you will be happier.Good kuck
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:13 AM   #25
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Any idea. Where I might be able to find a replacement power steering pump pulley? Part number is 14103167 its a 3 v belt pulley

I've searched local junkyard, craigslist and ebay, Chevy stoped makeing the part Years ago and I candidate find in any store or dealerships

Its for a 89 Fleetwood southwind p30 chassie
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:18 PM   #26
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Ok so I've replaced everything attached to engine n 're installed radiators and everything (other than gas tank, I have that dropped and need to clean it badly. .... so I'm bypassing gas tank by putting hose into a 2 gal gas can right after the fule filter) , ( city code ppls. Are giving me a hard time saying if I can't prove that it moves by Tuesday or is off my property there giving me a fine ant takeing me to court) it fires up when starter fluid is sprayed into the carb but dies immediately after ( gas is getting to carb)


Does this mean I have to take carb apart and clean it and 're install? Any suggestions to show that it can move ten ft by Tuesday?
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:37 PM   #27
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Been out of town so this may be a little to late since you said Tuesday it has to move. You say you have fuel to the carb but do you have fuel in the carb? Do you see any fuel spay down the throat from the accelerator pump jets when you pump the throttle linkage? It is possible that the needles are stuck in the seats and not letting fuel into the carb. If that is the case you might get them to drop free if you tap gently with a soft hammer on the side of the carb. If still no go then I would think pulling the carb and seeing what is going on would be your best bet.
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:03 PM   #28
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So I bought a carb kit n rebuilt it, the powet valve was seized with varnish, along with the secondary needles, also the accelerator pump moved freely, but gasket was desolved/ stick to inside of the tube

So needless to say it runs and drives. ...... breaks are iffy as I found out by comeing within an inch of destroying my neighbors fence. .... however I wouldn't have felt too bad if I did since he's who called city code ppls on me, instead of talking to me about it'


Sorry for delay, thought I posted this on Monday but my phone has been having some issues at times

Thanks for all the help

Just need to replace u joint ( lost half of the pins inside of it, but worked enough from code ppls) , flush brake lines since there prob all junk, and clean original gas tank
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