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Old 07-15-2015, 05:33 PM   #183
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I am sure you are right about the water proofing. But the Tyvek house wrap tape will also seal vapor and air movement. And like I said, if you trim any of the spray foam that you are using to seal the hard foam boards in place, then that will not be water proof or will it be air infiltration proof. Just my thoughts.

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Old 07-16-2015, 04:45 PM   #184
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Luaun... Plywood... or Marine Plywood...

Thoughts for this application?

My first instinct is to go cheap... at $11/sheet for Lauan.

-cheers
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:35 PM   #185
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I replaced a ceiling and part of walls on my last MH, a class c. 1/8th on ceiling and 1/2 on walls. I sealed both sides with polyurethane before installation to help keep them whole in case there was any future water intrusion. I realize you are using this on the outside but still think luan wil work fine as long as it stays dry.

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Old 07-19-2015, 06:21 PM   #186
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Well, this insulation project is proving to be a real pain in the butt. I was getting a lot of sections of foam that were sticking way out past the framing... and some places I just simply wasn't able to force the two layers of 3/4" foam into framing channels at all... turns out the inner panels are compressed in some areas by the windows and cabinets squeezing them against the framing, which forces some of the interior foam past the studs into the area I'm trying to insulate.

Actually... I think this is part of the reason perhaps some of the windows were leaking... the interior panels, framing, and exterior siding are sandwiched between the window's inner and outer flanges. Since the interior panels were compressed by the flanges, the windows were probably a bit loose.

Anyways, I decided to go ahead and get some 1/2" foam to lay into the walls first. I couldn't find any white 1/2" polystyrene, so I splurged and bought some pink board. This works a lot better to make the foam fit without sticking out past the framing, except for areas where there are little wooden anchors that are used to connect something on the inside. (First Pic). The anchors are 3/4"... so I thought ok, I'll put the white foam in first and have the pink board exposed... problem is you cant grind the pink board with the stripper wheel if it does stick out past the framing because it just melts. Sooo... long story short, I still have to grind out the back of the white board where these anchors are located.

I might be 1/3 of the way done with the insulation on this side. Now that I have a better plan and some more options for foam thickness, hopefully the rest will go a little faster.

Still trying do decide between regular plywood vs luan vs marine plywood. I did find a store about an hour away where I can buy 1/4" marine plywood - 3 ply - for $40/sheet. It's not like pressure treated wood (reacts negatively with aluminum anyways), but it does use water proof glue - the plys will not delaminate if it does get a little damp like the regular 1/4" plywood at home depot will. It's a but more money, but it might be worth the piece of mind... even if it prolongs the project a little more.

I worked a good long workweek last week... If I can get another one this week, I might just order that roll of aluminum coil... maybe...

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Old 07-23-2015, 06:27 AM   #187
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Quick update: I took the plunge and ordered a roll of aluminum... enough to build the top panel on the passenger side. I am hoping to have the insulation finished this weekend, as I am now about 2/3 finished with that.

I still have to order the contact adhesive... and get some luan or plywood. Probably going to go with the marine plywood I guess...

Feeling a little nervous... and hoping against hope that this will be successful. Just going to take my time and do my best to think the whole process through before actually putting any glue on anything. Wish me luck... say a prayer...

I'll post some pics of the finished insulation as soon as I'm done.

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Old 07-23-2015, 09:03 AM   #188
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FYI... if anyone is interested, I purchased the aluminum here:

www.airpartsinc.com

So far, they have been great to deal with in responding to my questions and concerns. They seem to be the only gig in town who sells 48" wide aluminum coil in relatively small quantities like this... and at what seems like a fairly reasonable price. I will of course have pics when it arrives.

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Old 07-23-2015, 03:20 PM   #189
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Thanks for the tip! Their prices are very reasonable too.
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:33 PM   #190
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Hear is a thought on when you hang your panel to the side of your RV. you are going to install rivets or screws to hold the panel up, right? I would do a pre fit and drill your rivet holes before you apply the glue. This also allows you to take it down and clean out shavings that might hold your panel off the frames. You will need temporary fasteners every 5th-10th hole or so. They will need to be the same size as the rivets 5/32 3/16 ect.
http://www.amazon.com/Boulderfly-Cle.../dp/B008PJYUTA
You may be able to find some used near you.
You will want to lightly deber the aluminum so the rivets will set flat to the surface. I would use a piece of file to remove burs on the inside of the frames you can reach. this allows the rivets to pull tight to the frame. there are tools that allow you to debur through the hole. Hear is a place to look. Don't over do the debur.
Burraway « Cogsdill Tool Products Cogsdill Tool Products
When you go up start in the middle and work out to the edges.
Pre drilling the holes you eliminate the problem of getting it aliened when you put it up.
I would install the fasteners wet with the sealant/glue to make shure they don't create a leak path.
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:10 AM   #191
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Do you really think you can keep it lined up while predrilling the holes? I always find that I'm better off to fasten stuff down, or otherwise by the time I get to the other side, the piece has shifted enough that the holes don't line up. The other thing is you really want the panel pulled tight as you assemble it, so it doesn't end up wavy. Trying to put tension on it without it being partially fastened down could be difficult.

BTY: I would also probably use a Rotozip tool to make the cutouts for the windows and any of the other holes in the wall. Cut it out after the wall is up, so your cut will be more accurate. While the Rotozip is made for drywall, It will to cut through sheet aluminum pretty easy. They have a metal blade that should work pretty well. If you are not familiar with the tool, search YouTube. I noticed in the reviews, you have to spray the aluminum to keep it from clogging the bit.
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:32 AM   #192
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Aircraft are generally assembled using kind of a temporary fastener (Cleco fasteners). Having worked with both, my experience has been aircraft panels are generally stiffer, and nowhere near the size of the panel being considered. The aircraft surfaces are generally not assembled vertically either.

Tossing another idea - If you could come up with a suitable surface to work on, and possibly a way to splice the ply backing panels to form something that would not allow the alum to flex at the ply joints, you could pre-glue the alum. to the ply, then hang that assembly on the side of the coach - without the concern (or as much concern maybe?) of the alum buckling. Possibly some type of zigzag pattern that might act similar to a mortice joint? An 18" strip of scrap alum. glued at each seam to sort of sandwich the ply at each seam?
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Old 07-25-2015, 03:47 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveinet View Post

BTY: I would also probably use a Rotozip tool to make the cutouts for the windows and any of the other holes in the wall. Cut it out after the wall is up, so your cut will be more accurate.
Yep... I had originally planned on using a router with a flush cut bit... but a rotozip would work too, and the bits are cheaper. I had originally figured on using the old aluminum as a template... rivet holes and all... but the more I think about it, the more it seems like that method produces more variables and thus more potential for mistakes. Hanging the panel secure and then routing the openings is definitely the way to go. It appears that's how they did it on the original panels.

On drawback to not using the old rivet holes, is that I'll have to map out each of the existing holes so that I don't drill a new hole just off center and make an oblong hole that the rivet won't hold to tightly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Tossing another idea - If you could come up with a suitable surface to work on, and possibly a way to splice the ply backing panels to form something that would not allow the alum to flex at the ply joints, you could pre-glue the alum. to the ply, then hang that assembly on the side of the coach - without the concern (or as much concern maybe?) of the alum buckling. Possibly some type of zigzag pattern that might act similar to a mortice joint? An 18" strip of scrap alum. glued at each seam to sort of sandwich the ply at each seam?
I've been thinking about this too... and I agree that the plywood joint is going to be an area of concern as far as the panel having a tendency to bend there. Even the original panels had a few visible lines where the joints were. I hadn't thought of a zigzag pattern... but I did consider using two layers of 1/8 plywood and staggering the joints 4' apart from one layer to the next. The only drawback is twice the cost for plywood and contact adhesive... and twice the chance I screw up the laminating process... Not sure about this part of the project just yet...

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Old 07-25-2015, 03:54 PM   #194
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Update:

I still have to grind off the excess spray foam that I used to fill the gaps, but for all intents and purposes, I'm pretty much done with the insulation... one more piece of this elephant down the gullet...

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Old 07-25-2015, 04:05 PM   #195
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Oh yeah... and that box on the left hand side of the picture in the last post is the 4' x 32' roll of .032" thick 2024 aluminum coil from Airparts for the first panel. It was boxed with a piece of tempered hardboard at each end of the coil to protect the edges from damage... and it worked... the box had a few dings but the aluminum was unscathed. Phew!! You have no idea how glad I was to see there was no damage.

Hopefully there will be 3 more just like it someday.

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Old 07-25-2015, 05:31 PM   #196
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Suggest getting some 2 X 4 X 12 so you can lean them up along the side and place drywall screws at about the correct height by a little low for the bottom of the sheet.

Roll it out then place on the stands you have made.

Now work on clamping a top end corner with a long reach vice grip.

Next work the rest up to alignment with the 2 X 4 still in place and move supporting screws as you go.

When you are ready then screw in corner top.

Now figure out how to use a come - along to attach to opposite end at top and pull it snug.

Work out the 2 X 4 so it is held in by screw at back and come along.

Now place screws along top edge checking each one for sheet alignment.
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