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Old 07-27-2015, 06:49 AM   #211
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Have you looked hear for supply's?
Woodworking | Woodworking Tools | Woodworking Hardware | Woodworker's Supply
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:12 AM   #212
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Woodworkers Supply is good. I also use Rocklers and Woodcraft for specialty items. And Veritas for tools.

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Old 07-27-2015, 10:14 AM   #213
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If you laminate then use vacuum to press.

Wide tape around the edges and over any holes then attach shop vac to a window opening or some other place.

That results in about 10 psi or greater depending on vacuum...best would be maybe 14 or so.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:48 PM   #214
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The manufacturer of the contact adhesive recommends hitting the plywood substrate with a mallet... something about popping the bubbles in the adhesive on both the aluminum and the plywood, releasing uncured contact adhesive from each substrate to mix and form a bond.

Never heard of that before. They also said rolling would probably work, but not recommended.

I dunno. Feel like I'm in over my head at times. I took the storage compartment door behind the rear tire off tonight... repairing the framing there is going to take some effort...

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Old 07-27-2015, 07:01 PM   #215
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Did the people you were speaking with realize the size of the panels you are working with?
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:51 AM   #216
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Did the people you were speaking with realize the size of the panels you are working with?
I believe so... I mean, I said I was building a 128 square foot RV panel. Seems like whacking it with a mallet might produce a hammered look on the aluminum if you're not careful. They had never heard of vacuum bagging an RV panel...

I think when it comes time to laminate the panel, I'll lay 1/2" pink board out on the garage floor to spread the aluminum out on... glue the plywood to the back of it, and then roll it with th biggest lawn roller I can find. The pink foam should take up all the inconsistencies in the floor without compressing too awful much and should prevent the aluminum from getting scratched or damaged.

I've looked at the vacuum bag idea, and it just seems like a lot of extra work to get 10 psi. A 50 gallon lawn roller would weigh 400 lbs... I realize the tangent point where the roller meets the plywood would not be the theoretical line you'd think it would be if you were drawing it on a sheet of paper - the plywood is going to compress... but if you had a 1/2" wide contact point on the roller at it's tangent point with the plywood, and the thing was 4' wide, you'd net 16 psi. No, it wouldn't be all at once... and it wouldn't suck the air out... but it should squeeze the glue together. Anyways... it seems like if I had an air bubble trapped between the plywood and the aluminum, it's going to be impossible to get out regardless. They told me that once the two surfaces of contact adhesive touch, they will be impossible to get apart without destroying the substrate.

I'm not against the vacuum bag idea... I just don't understand how it's better? Am I missing something?

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Old 07-28-2015, 05:02 AM   #217
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By the way, here's what I'm up against with the storage compartment framing behind the rear wheels. That piece of "angle" you see that's pulled away from the floor of the compartment is no longer an angle... the whole bottom leg of the angle is missing. Everything at the bottom of this compartment up probably 6" inches or so will need cut out and replaced... on both sides of the RV.

If I'm going to put the lower panel on first so I can overlap the top panel aluminum down onto it, I'll need to get all this repaired first. This part of the project does not excite me, but hopefully it won't be too bad. The good news is, it's only like this on the storage compartment immediately behind the rear wheels. Everything is solid from the rear wheels forward.

I guess if I were going to do any painting on the storage compartment doors, that should be done now too as they need to be hung on the rv before the bottom panel goes up. I think I'm going to try and just clean them up and put them back on... perhaps I'll remove the hinges and just paint those, as they are the only part of the doors with any real aesthetic issues...

This project seems to get bigger every day instead of smaller...

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Old 07-28-2015, 06:03 AM   #218
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Glad to hear you're considering installing the lower panel first. Experience gained at an easy working height will likely benefit the higher one. I think it will be a much more forgiving panel to build as well.

Though I am familiar with it, I've never used it, and would have more confidence in the vacuum bagging plan if it were epoxy or something else, that wasn't going to stick immediately like the contact cement plan.

Hitting it with a mallet not making much sense to me either. It sounds like the person you spoke with is thinking counter tops.

Sounds like this coach may have been used in winter driving conditions.
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:15 AM   #219
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The manufacturer of the contact adhesive recommends hitting the plywood substrate with a mallet...

I've done that, on small panels. I use a block of wood to prevent dents, and whack it with the mallet. I then finish with firm pressure from a J-roller. The idea has some theoretical merit, I just don't know how it would translate to such a large panel?
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:31 AM   #220
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Sounds like this coach may have been used in winter driving conditions.
It's possible... We bought it from a person in Rhode Island, and I knew the rear storage compartments were in rough shape then. What's weird is that the chassis framing is pretty much perfect. I suppose it probably had better paint on it from Oshkosh than what HR put on the angle iron framing they added. Actually, I'm guessing they didn't put ANY paint on the framing they added.

We took one winter trip in this rv a year and a half ago over new years... never again. The salt went to work FAST on the already rusty angle iron.

To be honest, everything that is hidden on this rv, looks like it was put together by apes. Everywhere they could cut a corner, they did... And this rv is supposed to be one of the better built brands of it's day...

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Old 07-28-2015, 06:47 AM   #221
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To be honest, everything that is hidden on this rv, looks like it was put together by apes. Everywhere they could cut a corner, they did... And this rv is supposed to be one of the better built brands of it's day...

I feel the same way about mine. The interior is shoddy construction from stem to stern. And they don't fail gracefully. Every minor thing can become a hidden catastrophe because the design can't handle the "what ifs." I don't think this situation is limited to older Holiday Ramblers, though, it's the entire industry.




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Old 07-28-2015, 06:56 AM   #222
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I believe so... I mean, I said I was building a 128 square foot RV panel. Seems like whacking it with a mallet might produce a hammered look on the aluminum if you're not careful. They had never heard of vacuum bagging an RV panel...

I think when it comes time to laminate the panel, I'll lay 1/2" pink board out on the garage floor to spread the aluminum out on... glue the plywood to the back of it, and then roll it with th biggest lawn roller I can find. The pink foam should take up all the inconsistencies in the floor without compressing too awful much and should prevent the aluminum from getting scratched or damaged.

I've looked at the vacuum bag idea, and it just seems like a lot of extra work to get 10 psi. A 50 gallon lawn roller would weigh 400 lbs... I realize the tangent point where the roller meets the plywood would not be the theoretical line you'd think it would be if you were drawing it on a sheet of paper - the plywood is going to compress... but if you had a 1/2" wide contact point on the roller at it's tangent point with the plywood, and the thing was 4' wide, you'd net 16 psi. No, it wouldn't be all at once... and it wouldn't suck the air out... but it should squeeze the glue together. Anyways... it seems like if I had an air bubble trapped between the plywood and the aluminum, it's going to be impossible to get out regardless. They told me that once the two surfaces of contact adhesive touch, they will be impossible to get apart without destroying the substrate.

I'm not against the vacuum bag idea... I just don't understand how it's better? Am I missing something?

-cheers
Use some plastic sheet under the pink board. when you are ready to glue get every thing position and tape a sheet over the top to the bottom sheet and use a vacuum pump to apply pressure. You can always use the roller on top. Go back and see if you can find the link I sent you on vacuum bagging.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:05 AM   #223
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I would wire brush everything and give it a couple coats of Rustolem before covering it up. Can you weld? Replacing that bad angle shouldn't be that bad. Even if you can't weld it should be fairly easy.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:32 AM   #224
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I would wire brush everything and give it a couple coats of Rustolem before covering it up. Can you weld? Replacing that bad angle shouldn't be that bad. Even if you can't weld it should be fairly easy.
Bill
Yes, all the storage doors are coming off so I can strip the rust off the steel tubing at the base of the aluminum wall. Surprised that the aluminum frame is not corroded more than it is, being in direct contact with the steel and all.

I can weld... a little. Enough to facilitate the repairs needed here. My brother has a little 110v wire feed, but not bottle on the setup for the argon. It will work well enough though.

There's a lot to do here... easy to get overwhelmed if I look at everything at once. Just gotta go one step at a time. Next step is going to be to repair the framing.

-cheers
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