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Old 09-12-2015, 04:38 PM   #281
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A little more progress today. I glued the little vinyl strips back over top of the "hat channel" they used for the upright sections of the storage compartments. I just used black polyurethane caulk as glue... seems to work. (first two pics)

The other pics are before and after of putting the front fender and the first storage compartment door back on. I probably didn't need to, but I used some stuff called Redguard to coat the steel where the aluminum hinge attaches. It's a waterproof membrane I used on the tile installation in our kitchen. It goes on pink and dries translucent red. Probably silly, but I just want to do what I can to keep the steel from touching the aluminum as it rusts over time. Maybe it helps... maybe not. I also used some grease type stuff on the rivets when I attached the doors... anything I can do to help keep the corrosion at bay.

I'm still having a hard time letting go of all the scratches and dings... but there might be an opportunity to fix a few of them, or at least cover them up, when I get to the point of painting some stripes... I realize that's down the road, but if I can use that rationale to keep my OCD at bay, then I'll take it.

My hope is that by next weekend I'll have the rest of the doors attached, and have some marine grade plywood on order. We'll see... I'm getting a little nervous as we get closer to actually laminating the panels... I'm just hoping against all hope that it works...

-cheers







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Old 09-12-2015, 08:41 PM   #282
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You're doing a great job!

I'm in the camp that believes you should forget about the everyday use scratches and dings. Leave that for another day (or another year). That's a whole other project, one that you may or may not decide to do.

To back up that statement, I offer the opinion that if you did not have to remove the siding on this coach, you would not be worried about the scratches and dings in the paint.

As an owner of the same era coach, I am watching your project with great interest. I think you will end up with a beautiful rig, sooner than you think.

Please remember that you are putting a great deal more care into the quality of your work than the original workers did when the coach was first built at the factory.

Jim
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Old 09-13-2015, 01:40 AM   #283
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Piker, I did not think about the wall stud's not being symmetrical, my bad! I do think that the siding will be pretty stiff after you laminate the plywood to the alum., and you will be able to hang it just fine! It will be a job, but as we all have come to see that you are very good at doing these things, and you will do just fine! I spoke up about the hazmat charge, because after trucking for 35+ years, I know that the reportable quantity list is different for different items. I do not have the books here with me, so with out spending a lot of time on the internet, will have to take their word for that! I would shop around, as their are many different co's that handle the same items, and some may offer free shipping! I would look on Amazon and Ebay both and all the other ones you can think of too!! A little research could save a lot of money, just in the shipping charges!!
The compartment doors look good, and as the others have said, "don't sweat the small stuff", and can do that at a later time!! Rail!
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:00 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa_Jim View Post

As an owner of the same era coach, I am watching your project with great interest. I think you will end up with a beautiful rig, sooner than you think.
Thanks Jim... I hope you're right. We've been down now for 18 months... sometimes feels like forever.

I found this plywood I can order through a lumber yard called Menard's. They're only about an hour away: Roseburg AB Marine

It runs $36/sheet - not terrible. I'll probably call and order tomorrow. I also have to revisit which rivets will work best for this application and get those purchased... as well as whether or not I'm going to switch to a wider vinyl trim w/aluminum track... if i can even find such a thing.


-cheers
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:23 AM   #285
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There is a place near Gilroy in Ca that has all kinds of odd things.

Ours has an odd shaped plastic/rubber trim that snaps over the aluminum trim between panels and they are only place that had it.

Their catalog has lots of odd trim and frame stuff.

It has been years but maybe someone else may have a name.

Maybe some Google searching might do it.

They also custom make doors and other things so you may be able to find a suitable junction trim for your side line.
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:37 PM   #286
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Just a tiny bit more progress... storage compartment doors are all attached. I still have to put some of the gaskets on, and of course the rear compartment doesn't have any walls or a floor yet... but I think the passenger side is pretty much ready for the new exterior panels. I think I might have to take the hot water tank out though...

Notice the bucket of contact adhesive in the photo. It came today. Now I have to figure out whether or not I should invest in a spray gun to apply it... probably should...

Marine plywood is also in transit... should be here by the weekend.

Still battling the toolmaker part of me that wants to make everything perfect... What a terrible way to be, since NOTHING is ever perfect in this world. Maybe this is a good exercise in reality for me...

Forging ahead...

-cheers

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Old 09-19-2015, 03:45 PM   #287
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Picked up this little gem today at the Harbor Freight store in Erie. $38 with tax. I played with it a little this afternoon... it should work great for the contact adhesive. Not sure I'd trust a $38 gun for painting anything that mattered though.

The plywood I ordered came in wednesday... before I went down to pick it up I called to make sure it wasn't damaged. Guess what... it was damaged. They ordered some more for me... probably be in this week.

I need to figure out what kind of solvent I should use to clean my spray gun after spraying the glue... I never thought of it when I ordered it. Bender's sells it, but my guess is it probably costs $$ to ship. I'm hoping i can get something locally to cut it.

Getting closer...

-cheers

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Old 09-19-2015, 03:56 PM   #288
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What size tip are you going to use to spray this contact adhesive? And I would think lacquer thinner would clean the gun. But of course the supplier of the adhesive has the last word. Are you going to put the wood to the aluminum all in one piece, then hang all together? Looking forward to your progress.

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Old 09-19-2015, 04:56 PM   #289
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What size tip are you going to use to spray this contact adhesive? And I would think lacquer thinner would clean the gun. But of course the supplier of the adhesive has the last word. Are you going to put the wood to the aluminum all in one piece, then hang all together? Looking forward to your progress.

ronspradley
I'm glad you asked, cause I don't know. The sheet from the manufacturer calls for a Devilbiss FX - 1.1mm (.043") fluid tip. Or... a Binks 63SS tip - .7mm (.028").

The Binks chart shows using a 1.8mm (.070") for contact adhesives.

There's a pretty big difference between those 3?? I wonder if the 63SS is a misprint... a 66SS would be a 1.8mm tip.

The gun has a 1.8mm installed. For some reason I was thinking that was what I needed, but at this point I'm not sure why I thought that... I haven't opened the adhesive yet, but it doesnt seem too awful thick when you shake the bucket. Something maybe like interior latex paint? Maybe??

-cheers
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:06 PM   #290
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... Very Thin Syrup...

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Old 09-19-2015, 05:08 PM   #291
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What size tip are you going to use to spray this contact adhesive? And I would think lacquer thinner would clean the gun. But of course the supplier of the adhesive has the last word. Are you going to put the wood to the aluminum all in one piece, then hang all together? Looking forward to your progress.

ronspradley
And yes... wood to aluminum and put up all in one piece.

-cheers
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:29 PM   #292
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I have never sprayed adhesive so I do not know tip size or psi. I am sure the adhesive supplier can translate their language into everyone else's language and you will be able to set psi and tip size for your application.

I still think I might set all seams in plywood with something waterproof and structural, like maybe fiberglass and resin. On the back side of plywood, away from the aluminum. Just a thought.

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Old 09-19-2015, 08:48 PM   #293
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I think you should be able to use acetone to clean the spray gun. You might call and see what they have to say. I did a Google search for an alternate to Benders #2 solvent and I think (Benders#2) is Methyl Isobutyl Ketone. You can see the search results hear. http://www.eastman.com/Literature_Center/T/TT127.pdf
Now you were talking about sealant on the rivets. That is a good idea. You might get a tube of Dicor Sealant (the non self-leveling. The easy way is to run a bead on a putty knife, I like a 2 in wide blade. Roll the rivets in the sealant (holding on to the stem with the head off the edge of the blade) before you stick them in the hole. You want to get enough on the shank to seal in the hole and have some under the head to create a fillet seal.
After you have finished shooting the rivets in a area you can wipe off any excess around the head. Go easy on the solvent so you don't wash the sealant from under the rivet heads.
I don’t remember what rivets you were going to use. There should be some good videos or documents showing how to do the installation. Let me know what rivets you have decided on.
You are going to use the old panels for a templet to drill your new holes. What size holes do you have now? I would by some of the next size to repair any bad /oversize holes.
I think we talked about this before. But if you have questions I will try to answer them. This isn’t much different than re skinning a B-52 flap lol.
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Old 09-20-2015, 05:44 PM   #294
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Bill,

I was going to use just regular old rivets with the shiny face... just in case I decide to leave the aluminum unpainted. 3/16Ø x 1/2" grip should do it. Home Depot carries these... maybe I should be using something else?

Stanley 3/16 in. Aluminum Rivets 50-Pack-PAA68-5B - The Home Depot

I don't know if I'm going to attempt to lay the old aluminum over the new and transfer the hole locations or not. The old panels have a little wood stuck to them here and there... and they're kind of bent up a bit. I will be reusing the aluminum tracks that hold the vinyl inserts though... so we'll see. I'll cross that bridge after I get the panel laminated. The are only a few rivets that are left exposed, so I don't even think I'll try to use the old holes for those.

I won't be cutting any holes in the panel for windows until after it's hung. I'll just use a router and cut those out afterwards.

I did a little playing with the new paint gun today... filled it with 30wt bar and chain oil and undercoated my rusty jeep. Worked slick for this... though it was a little splattery. I pretty much have just enough glue to laminate the 4 panels needed to cover both sides of the RV... so I need to kind of get a feel for the gun before I start shooting adhesive.

Ron, As far as reinforcing the plywood seams... I dunno... Worried if I put something just over the seams, that you'll see a hump from the outside? At one time I thought about laminating the old aluminum to the backside of each new panel, but I don't think I want to mess with that... It would add $350 worth of glue to the project... not to mention about 200 lbs total extra weight on the RV.

Well... all for now. I'm guessing the plywood will come in Wednesday... Hoping that there's no additional damage this time to slow the process down... The adhesive needs to be sprayed above 70°... and cooler weather is on it's way soon, though it looks like for the next 10 days the weather should cooperate.

-cheers
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